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Water/oil intrusion source on a Cummins 5 ton part3 pics

70deuce

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Ok guys, here is the deal after dropping the oil pan. Check out the pics. With the coolant system pressurized, the only place I am seeing water dripping out is around the rear main bearing. Even caught a drip in the air in the 2nd pic. The truck has been sitting for some time since last trouble shooting attempt. Water goes to lowest point in oil I think which may have it gathering around the rear main. Putting one of those small mechanics mirrors up over the crank and up by the liner I could see no water running out between the liner and the block or running down the block anywhere above the crank. Oil cooler???? Maybe got lucky or is something else??? Checked all other areas under the crank. Layed some paper down on the floor the length of the crank. The only drips are coming from the rear main area. Also ckecked the fluid sticking to the bottom edge of the #6 liner. Its all oil, no water. Aslo, one guy can take off that monster of an oil pan ok but you better get two to put it back on.

Phil
 

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Gamagoat1

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RE: Water/oil intrusion source on a Cummins 5 ton part3 pic

It sound like oil cooler to me. It's leaking into the oil system and coming out of the main.
Maybe Will Wagner will chime in here he knows these engines much better than most.

Hey, where was soldier B when I put mine back on? LOL
 

70deuce

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RE: Water/oil intrusion source on a Cummins 5 ton part3 pic

You should have called soldier B. Soldier B would have helped if soldier B was around. :}
Phil
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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RE: Water/oil intrusion source on a Cummins 5 ton part3 pic

B-4 you pull it apart, just double check that it isn't comming between the piston and liner at #6. Roll the engine so the #6 piston is at the top of the stroke and keep pressure on it. Watch to make sure the coolant isn't between the P & L. If not, pull the oil cooler. Look at the o-rings to see if they are rolled, that could be the reason it leaks. If you can find no reason for the leak, and you have time, PM me and you can send the bundleto me and I can pressure test it. As for putting the pan up, use a knee. Press it up, like bench pressing weights, use a knee to hold it up and start two center bolts. FWIW, if there are butress bolts...the ones from the oil pan to the flywheel housing, 6, 1/2 inch bolts..3 each side, leave them out. Oil pans like to crack when they are used.
 

70deuce

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Will, did what you suggested. Turned engine over to get piston at the top of its travel, coolant system presuurized, and still same results. Only place water was coming from was the rear main bearing. Wiped the bottom of the piston skirt dry before doing this and its still dry with no evidence of water coming out anywhere around the liner. Will PM you on the pressure testing of the oil cooler. Hopefully will have time to get it removed soon.

Phil
 

70deuce

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Franktown, CO
Hand cranked engine again with a helper watching the piston and liner area. No visible evidence of water coming out around the liner or down the liner anywhere. Only place where water seeped out was rear main bearing. Oil cooler coming off soon.
 

m16ty

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Back it the other post I was just trying to prepare you for the worst if that was the case (witch alot of times it is). See, now your happy even though you've got to pull the cooler :D .
 

70deuce

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I have been figuring for the worse. It is a big relief on the liner or liners Oil pan going back on right away and cooler coming off. Thanks everyone for the advise and tips.Will keep you posted on the next steps.
 

m16ty

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I belive I'd replace the cooler and leave the pan off and do one more pressure test with new cooler installed just to make sure.
 

70deuce

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Since its sitting outside I will put the pan back up with a few bolts to keep dirt out and do as you suggest. Get the oil cooler fixed first, pressure test the whole system again with the pan down then put everything back together. Thanks
 

rosco

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Usually, on an oil cooler leak, oil goes into the coolant, and not the reverse. Because the oil is of a higher pressure.

Lee in Alaska
 

70deuce

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Good news!!! Great news!!!! For all you following this saga, it was definitely the oil cooler. For WillWagner, we have a Cummins specialty shop here in the Denver area called Marini Diesel. The founder worked on these trucks many years ago in the Army. Great bunch of guys. Anyways they pressure tested the oil cooler and I wish I had my camera. A solder joint had fractured and the thing was bubbling real good. There a ton of solder joints on that cooler. Thanks for the offer on testing it. What a relief. No popping liners. This shop had a new cooler in stock, put it in my housing and pressure tested it again. No leaks. Its on the truck now. I will drop the pan one more time and pressurize the coolant system again to make sure there is nothing else going on. Its only being held on with 4 bolts right now. Here is what these guys said about the oil and water exchanging places. When the truck is started, the 60 plus PSI oil is flowing out of the hole in the cooler into the coolant. And mine had lots of oil in the coolant. When the engine is shutdown, oil pressure goes to zero and the 190 degree coolant stays at pressure (about 10 PSI or more) for quite some time as it cools off and its during this time that the water is forced through the same hole in the cooler into the oil. That's why you can get oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. Anyways, $140 for a new oil cooler plus some labor and parts, new O-rings, retainers and gaskets and the beast should be back in action. Much better that popping out liners. Thanks to everyone who piped in on this one. Getting close to driving this wonderful truck again

Phil
 
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