• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Waterproofing 1165 top

OBX

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
117
379
63
Location
Moyock, NC
Yes mine is the plug.
Are you having the whole back wall sprayed down into the bed too? That’s what I’m thinking of doing, but some of the gaps between metal, with rubber or foam seals, are quite wide. I wasn’t sure if the bedliner material would span that without cracking
Already had back wall sprayed. Will use silicone sealant to fill gaps between wall and truck bed.
Will paint tan to match after hardtop is sprayed.
064D0F37-8ED4-4A0D-8EAC-5BE1F838766F.jpeg648886D5-228B-483D-8200-2F4E19D9FD2C.jpeg
 
Last edited:

thoner7

Active member
312
195
43
Location
NE TN
Here’s some more shots of where water comes in. Some is minor wetting I won’t worry about, others it’s a flood. lots of the problems are around the doors- is it a fools errand to get the doors to seal nice and tight?

I’m probably going to have the top modified and welded so that the giant gaps in the corners are closed up, and allow water to run toward the outside of the cab, and not divert water directly INTO the passenger seats lol. I think a rain gutter welded on, above the doors, would go a long way too.

I don’t really like that option, but my only other coarse of action would be going with a plan B top or similar. Which means I’d have to go through the trouble of selling this roof or the entire truck. And buying another truck without a roof.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

thoner7

Active member
312
195
43
Location
NE TN
And here is the issues I have with the rear doors…. The top is a 1/2” wider than the C pillar, so the “jamb” on the top is 1/4” wider than the “jamb” of the c Pillar. It would be impossible for the doors to shut tightly against the C pillar as they bottom out along the roof first.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: OBX

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,397
4,181
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
And here is the issues I have with the rear doors…. The top is a 1/2” wider than the C pillar, so the “jamb” on the top is 1/4” wider than the “jamb” of the c Pillar. It would be impossible for the doors to shut tightly against the C pillar as they bottom out along the roof first.
let me clear up any questions anyone has on ”X-Door“ fitment on these trucks, the X-Door wasn’t designed for this truck, they fit of course, but to hillbilly tolerance, these trucks were designed with Frag armor doors with the perimeter armor, I can attest that Frag doors fit as tight as a glove, same goes for the “FLAT” X-door designed for perimeter armored trucks that have the Frag door removed, these trucks suffer the same fitment issues as the older Slantback where the C-pillar and roof meet at the top Corner, this can cause only be remedied with larger pieces of flashing, the factory actually did a pretty good job at applying flashing pieces aleady.
Water in my trucks doesn’t bother me, as long as it’s not raining down on my head, here is some trivia, ever wonder why you see tons of Hmmwv’s with black plastic still covering the seats Even though the truck is 10yrs or older?
 

Autonomy_Lost

Well-known member
687
1,537
93
Location
Pennsylvania
My front x doors seal pretty well on my m1151, but my rear doors do not, especially in the top rear corner. I fought with adjusting them for days, and got it slightly better, but they still arent tight in that corner. It sounds like I'm not alone.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks