Ways 2 to Limp home after electronic failures & spares to have to avoid limping

[coachgeo]

Way it looks on the Stewart Stevenson FMTV's; same for any of today's cars and trucks, is we will have to become electronically knowledgeable. Just turning a wrench and understanding combustion and gears etc. no longer cuts it. In fact "mechanical" knowledge today may even be of be lesser importance to keep a rig going/restoration than electrical knowledge. It's like in last couple decades of space movies where the person who saves the day is the one who rewires the Flow capacitor to the modular Xziplinger bypassing the Piddlepop allowing the engines to fire. Oh, and they use bubble gum to hold the jumper wire in place. Those past movies are today's reality. A mechanic that could reweld a broken axle in the field with batteries, jumper cables, and nails as a Rod is no longer enough.

So let's add post or links to other post/threads into here about:

. Things you've discovered on the road or trail during an electrical breakdown that helped you limp home. Did you rob a component from elsewhere less important to temporarily replace the one that went out? or jumper it orr? ESPECIALLY look forward to personal experiences rather they happened State Side in your personal FMTV or happened to you in Military scenario.

. Things you've discovered while repairing/restoring electronic related issues in your garage that you recognize to be potential "limp home knowledge" .

. Ways you've discovered to bypass/remove electrical components allowing for one less electrical headache (such as using air solenoids to remove CTIS computer)


ALSO...... what spares to keep and where. Below two list I will keep updated below with your suggestions from your post.



. Spare electronic components/computers (Transmission computer?) to keep on the truck or in Garage.

. Electronics repair Aids (Scopes, Code Readers, etc.)




SPARES S=Spare item, K?= Should this spare item be Kept in the (T=)Truck or is just having an extra in your (G=)Garage cause one you have will go bad with time/use, W=Where to buy?

EXAMPLE
S. Transmission ECU
k? G. Maybe T if you're planning a long Expedition.
W. Ebay, Military Surplus sites etc.
EXAMPLE

S. Voltage Regulator
K. ?
W. ??



Electronics Tools ET-Tool, Wh?= same above,

EXAMPLE
ET. MultiMeter
Wh? T&G
W. Harbor Freight, Amazon, Favorite Auto Parts stores along with various others
EXAMPLE

With this ET in mind there has been a few mentions of a Windows XP powered ECU programmer and/or problem scanner OBDII like unit. Where can one get that?

 

[Suprman]

The trans is electronic and is well known to be very reliable. There is an internal solenoid bank it comes off from the bottom of the trans so it is serviceable. A trans computer, keypad or trans failure would not be something that you could field improvise without parts. The first gen trucks are all mechanical. No engine computer to fail. If you had a total electrical failure in cab (and somehow still had power to the trans and control plus the starter) you can run a wire (24v) to the fuel solenoid and jump the starter solenoid and it would run. I have jump started trucks that had no batts with a pair of 12v jump packs and some wire with clip leads to check engines and get power steering so it was easier to push the truck where I wanted to move it to. Low voltage to the trans control will give you a low voltage error and it wont shift properly. I had one the trans computer had a lousy ground and I got the error. Had to add a ground right on the trans computer case. The power protective device under the spare tire, that cab power goes thru, can be bypassed if it fails just take the 12 and 24 volt leads coming out of it and piggyback onto the feeds. You are more likely to develop fuel problems or a flat tire than catastrophic electrical failure.

 

[coachgeo]

... The first gen trucks are all mechanical. No engine computer to fail. ....

What years were first generation? Isn't there a hint in the Vin. or other number as to which one is which? A0 or A1 something to that effect?

... You are more likely to develop fuel problems or a flat tire than catastrophic electrical failure.

For now..... but as they age/get used more, that seemingly won't be the case. Having owned a Landrover, and a TDI diesel both with massive electrical problems before; maybe I'm overly concerned

 

[porkysplace]

SPARES S=Spare item, BEE= Big Electrical Event- spare items to have in case of an event as suggested here*, Wh?= Should this spare item be in the (T=)Truck or is just having an extra in your (G=)Garage cause one you have will go bad with time/use, W=Where to buy?




* Rules of this board state we can not get into discussions of BEE like events on this board and this thread is nothing about that besides...... spares parts if it did. Let's follow those rules to keep this potentially valuable thread from being deleted

If your that worried about solar flares your best bet is a horse or camel

 

[coachgeo]

If your that worried about ...

PM sent.

your concerns are no longer valid thus your post no longer is valid.

forgot you can't delete post in here grrrr....... please delete the Text in your post !!!

 

[NDT]

What years were first generation? Isn't there a hint in the Vin. or other number as to which one is which? A0 or A1 something to that effect?

Yes, A0 is mechanical engine, A1 is electronic. Look at the gas pedal. Black plastic is mechanical, silver cast aluminum with "Williams Controls" is electronic. The system is off the shelf and used on THOUSANDS of commercial vehicles for years.

 

[coachgeo]

Yes, A0 is mechanical engine, A1 is electronic. Look at the gas pedal. Black plastic is mechanical, silver cast aluminum with "Williams Controls" is electronic. The system is off the shelf and used on THOUSANDS of commercial vehicles for years.

Great info. Unfortunately, one can not search by two characters on a Bulletin Board like this or I'd search to find out what number would contain that code. Is it the Vin or?

 

[NDT]

Great info. Unfortunately, one can not search by two characters on a Bulletin Board like this or I'd search to find out what number would contain that code. Is it the Vin or?

Oh sorry. The "M" model number. M1078 mechanical, M1078A1 electronic.

 

[wehring]

Voltage regulator! Have replaced every one in my FMTVs.... Every one!

justin wehring

 

[Lmtv772]

Coachgeo, Did you get you LMTV, yet?
If not I would suggest a bit less worry on things you like to worry over and more of focus on vehicle acquisition. Otherwise you'll be stuck being full of knowledge and no LMTV to enjoy.

 

[coachgeo]

Coachgeo, Did you get you LMTV, yet?
If not I would suggest a bit less worry on things you like to worry over and more of focus on vehicle acquisition. Otherwise you'll be stuck being full of knowledge and no LMTV to enjoy.

Not worried at all. Just educating myself and doing so in a way that collects info in a way that others may learn from as well. No need to be selfish right. The truck will be here in a week or two if not sooner.

 

[Lmtv772]

Not worried at all. Just educating myself and doing so in a way that collects info in a way that others may learn from as well. No need to be selfish right. The truck will be here in a week or two if not sooner.

Maybe it's a good idea to take a vacation until then.

 

[coachgeo]

Voltage regulator! Have replaced every one in my FMTVs.... Every one!
justin wehring

This one? ( FSCM 76761, Part# N3030 .REGULATOR ASSEMBLY ) http://trucks25tonm1078v1-5.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-365-20-3/css/TM-9-2320-365-20-3_252.htm .
Suggestions on where to get them?

 

[Suprman]

Depends on which alt you have. I wouldn't run out and buy spares yet.