WC-51 Restoration or Bust!!

[Tinwoodsman]

Got plenty of shops who will do it but the price is steep. I will keep looking. Panshark, I will be trying the rust removal tip this weekend. Let you know how it turns out.

 

[papabear]

Well, as it turns out, removing the tank was not too bad. Unfortunately when I dropped the tank, I heard a loud knocking inside. I got the sender plate off after all the screws sheared off, to find that the tank baffle is loose. I called John at Midwest and he said he could have it repaired and sealed but we are looking at north of $400. Others have quoted $500 to $600. Needless to say, I am crushed.
Going to try my local welding shop to see if they can repair the tank and I can clean and seal it with the with the KBS coating kit like I did my deuce. If not, I may be converting this Sum Bitch to PROPANE.
Sorry, no photos today. You cannot take pictures of gloom and doom.

OK..I know you want to do this right...we all do.
But...do you REALLY plan to drive this vehicle across the country or even more than 100 miles at a time?

I say get a 5-10 gallon plastic tank and feed her fuel from that.
All of our diesel trucks run from the original tanks, but almost all the gassers (-M211s) use 5 gallon boat tanks cause we just don't drive them that far...takes too long etc. (that includes Doc's M114)

You don't have to worry about gas going bad etc. and you don't have to spend mega bucks to get the system "right" only to use it a few times a year.

Plus...we are "po folks" so we have to take some "liberties" where we can.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Thanks for the suggestion PB. It just might come to that.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Got some shop time in today. I am concentrating on getting the cargo bed frame off the bed. Since mine is a late model WC, a large part of the bed was made of wood. As you can see from the photos, I need to square it up to do some patch panel work and dent removal. I have full drawings and measurements of the parts needed but for the time being, I will just cut wood pieces for the inner panels of the side boxes and bolt them in. This will allow me to create patch panel templates for the actual metal patches. The final wood will be either oak or ash.

Next I assembled the assortment of carb linkage parts and installed the carb and tested the linkage. I am prepping everything to a test of the engine to better determine any work required. Fortunately, I have two friends who cut their teeth on the Dodge 230 CI flathead. Also topped off the radiator to make sure it did not leak but will ultimately take it to a radiator shop for flushing and pressure testing.

Finished up by removing the drivers side running board. Everything was in good condition and should look brand new after blasting and painting. When I removed the running board I noticed the two rear supports were angled toward the front but upon further investigation I notice the holes on the running boards were also offset. Since the frame narrows at this point, Dodge angled the supports so a standard support could be used on either side.

A major parts shipment arrives Tuesday from Midwest. I am currently trying to decide whether to go with 9.00-16 NDT's or Power Track Super Lugs. Also trying to find the best price since I need 5 tires.

More to follow:

 

[papabear]

Dangit Man! You are going right to work on that rascal!

Did you say you needed the carb airhorn and/or aircleaner Assy??
I THINK it's the same as an M37...let me know what you need.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Thanks PB. I found the Carter air horn, mounting sleeve and original air cleaner from John and Midwest. Those should be here next week.

 

[papabear]

Thanks PB. I found the Carter air horn, mounting sleeve and original air cleaner from John and Midwest. Those should be here next week.

Fine then!!!

Don't buy anything else an M37 shares without PMing me ok??

I'll be glad to help.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

To be sure kind sir!!

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Today was Sunday so I did not get much done after church. I did remove the passenger side running board and removed both gas tank holders. Worked out some dents and they are ready for blasting.

I had received a PM from Panshark about using electrolisis to remove rust so I thought I would give it a try. I tested it on the original firewall oil can holder. From the photos you can see the original condition of the part. I used a 5 gallon bucket with 3 gallons of water and 3 tablespoons of baking soda. I connected two pieces of 1/2" rebar as the anode and the part was the cathode. I used a battery charger for the 12V source and suspended the part in the solution. I only left it in for 2 hours and it really came out nice. It could be primed and painted as is but I think I will do another two hours tomorrow. I will try it on the Jerry can holders next using a larger container and 4 anodes connected. Thanks Panshark!

When refurbished my deuce, I reconditioned about 80% of the bolts, washers, etc. With the WC-51 I think it will be in the 10-15% range. I guess that is what another 27 years of rusting will get you. More to follow:

 

[lowrdrbird]

OKAY
I NEED TO KNOW HOW THIS WORKS !!!!!!
PLEASE POST MORE DETAILS ON HOW THIS IS DONE .......opcorn:opcorn:

 

[Tinwoodsman]

This link will provide more information on the process.

Stovebolt Tech Tip -- Antique Chevy / GMC Truck Restoration Help

 

[panshark]

I may one who is contented by mediocrity, but I don't think it turned out that bad. For a rust removing setup that's almost impossible to destroy a part, looks like you've got a good start. I know you've got a busted shovel kicking around somewhere. Run that rebar down through where the handle attaches, and drop it into your bigger container. That'll ramp up the process. Large surface area is your friend!

On a side note...there is perhaps a safer way to do the process. Your battery charger is probably kicking out 2 amps minimum. I supply power to my setup through a ac->dc converter, that kicks out a fraction of 1 amp. Think old cell phone charger, old toy power supply, etc. 6 volts to 24 volts ok, 1/2 amp is plenty of power. It would probably work just as efficiently with 1/10 amp (100 mAh). Because I use a recycled converter, I know how much current is being conducted through the solution. I can stick my hand in the bucket/tub while it's plugged in to juice, and I may or may not feel a slight tingling. I don't think you would be able to do that with a car battery charger.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Believe me Panshark, I was not disappointed. Just always trying for improvement. I like the idea of increasing the anode surface area and will try that when I do the Jerry can holders. I am looking for Washing Powder since it a little more caustic than baking soda and may speed up the process.

 

[1958 M274]

Hmmmm... Looks like that electrolysis worked pretty good! I have a very rusty Ben Hur trailer, a 5 ton wrecker, and a swimming pool that we don't ever use... Wonder if I could dump a 55 gallon drum full of baking soda into the pool (30,000 gallons) and suspend the trailer from the lunette eye into the pool with the wrecker boom? The rubber tires will keep the wrecker and trailer insulated from the ground. Then, I can energize the wrecker/trailer and use an old wheelbarrow I have as the anode. What do y'all think?

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Sounds like a plan to me. For a power source, you can use a old cell phone charger.

 

[panshark]

Ok, you two got me on that one. It would be interesting to see that in action, though!

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Had quite a bit of down time lately with some family illness, but things are looking up. Then I had the misfortune (or stupidity) to slice open the end of my index finger which put a crimp on the project. Finger is getting better for the project and typing so here is a recap.

Started making wood cargo bed templates to assist in squaring up the cargo bed for patch panel work. These templates will reduce the risk when it comes time to make the wood parts from costly oak. Installed a new rear cross member and am attempting to obtain measurements for the bed areas where rust has deteriorated mine.

Decided to tackle the engine and tested compression, timing, etc. and installed the ETW1 carb. With a little coaching, she fired up and ran very well considering I had 90 to 105 psi in cylinders 1-4 and only 35 in 5 and 6. Will pull the head next week and take a look. Got strong readings on the amp and oil gauges and the temp gauge did register but I only ran the engine for a about 5 minutes. I have ordered a gasket set for the 230 flathead and a rebuild kit for the carb.

Continue to accumulate parts and John at Midwest and Jens at Vintage Power Wagon have a lien on my home. The full tank will be done this week and I am still trying to locate a good fuel sending unit. Can't swing the $100+ dollars the ebay guy in Vietnam wants. Now have 5 combat wheels ready for blasting and painting and 5 new 9.00-16 NDT's thanks to Wallace Wade in Dallas.

More to come.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Working on and off this week so the progress made is.....

Got the flathead fired up and she ran pretty good. Comfortable that no significant issues exist and will pull the engine shortly and my mechanic friend will help me overhaul it to make sure everything is up to snuff.

Got my gas tank back and it came out super. Could not find a fuel sending unit anywhere (usual places were out of stock) and someone referred me to a operation in the Netherlands. Turns out I purchased a new unit and, even with shipping, it was cheaper than the other places I tried.

Removed all the front end metal and will take the radiator to be cleaned out next week. No leaks are present but just want to check it out.

Installed the wood templates for the cargo box compartments which enabled me to square everything up. Now I can work on the cargo box patch panels and then remove the bed for blasting and body work. Located and purchased the bed hardware such as floor strips, step bolts with 1" diameter heads, and domed periphery tooth lock washers so the bed will be restored correctly. I still need to mill the oak wood sides, floor boards and cargo box lids but that will be the last step in assembly.

Got a visit from the Engine Lift Bracket fairy this week so I can pull the engine soon. Thanks PB

 

[papabear]

Glad to help Sir...you are doing amazing work for the hobby and your truck will represent well.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Today was a good day and I didn't even go to the shop.

When I purchased my WC-51, it did not have a title as it has been a "ranch truck" as far back as I can research. In Texas, the county tax collector/DMV chief, can conduct a hearing and award a Court Ordered Title based on certain information provided. They have a package of forms to complete including Bill of Sale records, previous owner records, VIN information and specifications, etc. I was able to put together a detailed records package since the seller provided me a Bill of Sale and copies of the previous Bill of Sale from the person who sold him the vehicle. In addition, I was able to obtain the War Department Build Card and a certification letter from the Chrysler Historical museum.

Voila, the hearing lasted 5 minutes and I walked out with a title and the commitment that I could register it as a Former Military Vehicle when I am ready. The clerk who worked with me said the application package peaked her interest since her grandfather served in New Guinea and drove a vehicle just like mine. A big obstacle is now behind me.

Now back to wrenching.