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What am I getting into with an auction truck?!

thoner7

Active member
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Location
NE TN
Just as the title say, what should I expect from a running and “complete” auction truck? I never considered the auctions because the prices have been so high these past few years but, they have really come down now.

How many minor problems to repair, missing things, etc. what’s the likelihood of some engine failure or tranny seizing in 50 miles? Do you end up replaced seals all over the place and chasing leaks? bent driveshafts irHow much should I budget in for unexpected repairs? Is buying a second parts truck worth it or will those parks just be old and worn?

what problems have y’all had with your trucks?

lastly what’s the bidders premium and tax rate? State dependent?
 

BLK HMMWV

Well-known member
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512
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Location
Pasadena California
Just as the title say, what should I expect from a running and “complete” auction truck? I never considered the auctions because the prices have been so high these past few years but, they have really come down now.

How many minor problems to repair, missing things, etc. what’s the likelihood of some engine failure or tranny seizing in 50 miles? Do you end up replaced seals all over the place and chasing leaks? bent driveshafts irHow much should I budget in for unexpected repairs? Is buying a second parts truck worth it or will those parks just be old and worn?

what problems have y’all had with your trucks?

lastly what’s the bidders premium and tax rate? State dependent?
How deep is a hole?
 

Maxjeep1

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Las Vegas Nevada
I would rather take my chances at auction rather than a truck from someone else. I have bought 2 trucks one running and one not. Runner I replaced 2 serpentine belts and changed fluids and thermostat. My running M1123 has been perfect and I did change fuel gauge and sending unit. My non running M1165 I needed a injection pump and it ran good. It did have a voltage regulator go out and a lift pump but I did that on both. I would buy them both all over again and I have zero regrets! Could be much worse but if you no what to stay away from I think you will be ok
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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You are buying what was essentially a Rolls-Royce priced vehicle at fire-sale prices. Some are dumpster fires but most are easily salvaged. When you’re buying new cars, a percentage are lemons. This is not much different. Some were driven hard and put to bed wet. Some were properly maintained.

So, you feeling lucky?
 

Maxjeep1

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You are buying what was essentially a Rolls-Royce priced vehicle at fire-sale prices. Some are dumpster fires but most are easily salvaged. When you’re buying new cars, a percentage are lemons. This is not much different. Some were driven hard and put to bed wet. Some were properly maintained.

So, you feeling lucky?
I think we have the most desirable trucks…. I love my M1165 and I don’t see any for sale
 

Hummer Guy

Well-known member
843
807
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Location
United States Louisiana
Just as the title say, what should I expect from a running and “complete” auction truck? I never considered the auctions because the prices have been so high these past few years but, they have really come down now.

How many minor problems to repair, missing things, etc. what’s the likelihood of some engine failure or tranny seizing in 50 miles? Do you end up replaced seals all over the place and chasing leaks? bent driveshafts irHow much should I budget in for unexpected repairs? Is buying a second parts truck worth it or will those parks just be old and worn?

what problems have y’all had with your trucks?

lastly what’s the bidders premium and tax rate? State dependent?
You never really know until you get it, especially with the transmission, my transmission came with exactly no fluid in it and the wiring harness ripped out of it. The truck wouldn't even go in any other gear but 2nd and reverse, but all I needed was another wiring harness and some fluid. That could've been a lot worst tho, none of that was even listed on the ad, take note, this is an extremely rare case, I never heard of anyone else on here that had a running truck come to them with 0 fluid in the trans
 

thoner7

Active member
321
201
43
Location
NE TN
I’ll try to respond to all of you: I guess honestly I don’t really know what to look for. I’m only considering runners with out missing gauges and stuff like that. Hopefully no blow by or leaks. Ones that look decent or rust free. I’ve been looking at the radiators to see if any fins are bent as that may indicate rough use. Any other “clues” I should look for?

mainly want an A2 model or there is one 1165 up too. But with it being a REV serial number I’m not sure if that’s good or bad.

why were some painted black? There’s this one in Kentucky which isn’t far from me. It’s just north of Clarksville TN/Fort Campbell KY. Perhaps being black had it in some other type of light-duty service? There’s a trans leak but maybe just agasket on the pan?

 
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Mainsail

Well-known member
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Puget Sound, WA
As somewhat of an amateur myself, take my suggestions with a grain of salt.

First, how do you see yourself using the vehicle?

Just putt around town for the cool-factor? Pretty much any of the trucks on the auction will do once you get the work done.

If any highway driving is involved (like you have to drive an hour on the freeway to get to your offroad trails or commute), you want a truck with the extended snout.

The flat-faced trucks are normally aspirated and usually 3-speed transmissions. The extended snout is for the bigger cooling stack, so those trucks have the turbo and 4-speed OD transmission - that combination makes it much more highway friendly.

There are:
- 6.2 liter engine mated to a 3-speed transmission (no PARK position)
- 6.5 liter engine mated to a 3-speed transmission?
- 6.5 liter engine mated to a 4-speed transmission
- 6.5 liter turbo engine mated to a 4-speed transmission

Even the last combination with the bigger turbo motor is gutless, so keep that in mind when looking at non-turbo trucks.

There are in-between trucks that have no turbo but do have the 4-speed OD transmission - that's what the truck in the linked auction appears to be.

State and local municipalities are able to get certain pieces of military equipment for free under some program (forget the name) and that truck looks like one of those- like some sheriff's Dept got it and let it sit.

If you plan to build a crawler or serious off-road mud truck, then you already have the cash to turn any generation HMMWV into whatever you want, or you're mentally unstable.
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Olympia/WA
as Mainsail said, no matter what version you get, they are pretty gutless in comparison to your average modern civilian vehicle.

The military didn't care about power/speed. They mostly just cared about what fuel it used, and if it could use parts they already had in their supply system.
 

thoner7

Active member
321
201
43
Location
NE TN
Yes I understand the obvious differences in the trucks. I’m cool with an A2 or 1165. But people have scared me with the REV trucks being expensive for parts.

basically I need to find a good one and be prepared for repairs.

I’m an engineer by trade and have built my own house from scratch and remodels plenty. I have more experience on older tractors both gas and diesel but not wrenched on cars much, and never on a diesel truck. Although I did own a skytrak tele handler with a Cummins 4b in it for a while.
 

TNDRIVER

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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511
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Location
Cleveland,TN
I would rather take my chances at auction rather than a truck from someone else. I have bought 2 trucks one running and one not. Runner I replaced 2 serpentine belts and changed fluids and thermostat. My running M1123 has been perfect and I did change fuel gauge and sending unit. My non running M1165 I needed a injection pump and it ran good. It did have a voltage regulator go out and a lift pump but I did that on both. I would buy them both all over again and I have zero regrets! Could be much worse but if you no what to stay away from I think you will be ok
P> S> This man owns wrenches and knows how to spin them......just saying!
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
I’ll try to respond to all of you: I guess honestly I don’t really know what to look for. I’m only considering runners with out missing gauges and stuff like that. Hopefully no blow by or leaks. Ones that look decent or rust free. I’ve been looking at the radiators to see if any fins are bent as that may indicate rough use. Any other “clues” I should look for?

mainly want an A2 model or there is one 1165 up too. But with it being a REV serial number I’m not sure if that’s good or bad.

why were some painted black? There’s this one in Kentucky which isn’t far from me. It’s just north of Clarksville TN/Fort Campbell KY. Perhaps being black had it in some other type of light-duty service? There’s a trans leak but maybe just agasket on the pan?

I have seen a local painted black air national guard recruiter eye candy for shows & exhibits etc.. Very few are painted black and the one I saw was rather sloppy.
 

thoner7

Active member
321
201
43
Location
NE TN
I have seen a local painted black air national guard recruiter eye candy for shows & exhibits etc.. Very few are painted black and the one I saw was rather sloppy.
So I would have to assume its wear and tear is very light?!?!
 
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