what cordless tool are you using to get your lug nuts off

[HDN]

I've been considering buying a 20 CFM air compressor for my new home with the intention of using it for air tools and blowing debris off my projects. But now I'm wondering if I should get a smaller unit to avoid running a new 220V line and go electric with the impact wrenches. I'd use it on my car wheels, and need something to turn the nuts holding my A3 rims together. Thoughts?

 

[Another Ahab]

I've been considering buying a 20 CFM air compressor for my new home with the intention of using it for air tools and blowing debris off my projects. Thoughts?

The battery tools now are practically a "no-brainer". It just makes your life so much easier than all the compressor headaches:

- Size of unit

- Noise

- Accessories (hose, hose-reel, etc)

Milwaukee even has an air-blower that runs off its standard batteries if I remember right, AND if you want that capability.

 

[COACHG31]

I love the Milwaukee tools and options

 

[Castle Bravo]

Another vote for the Milwaukee 2767 1/2" high torque.

I actually find myself using my 2861 1/2" mid torque even more on the M916 and HET lug nuts.

 

[Another Ahab]

Another vote for the Milwaukee 2767 1/2" high torque.

I actually find myself using my 2861 1/2" mid torque even more on the M916 and HET lug nuts.

You got me wondering now:

- No problems whatever, but got to go check and see what model I picked up, just out of curiosity

 

[rustystud]

I've been considering buying a 20 CFM air compressor for my new home with the intention of using it for air tools and blowing debris off my projects. But now I'm wondering if I should get a smaller unit to avoid running a new 220V line and go electric with the impact wrenches. I'd use it on my car wheels, and need something to turn the nuts holding my A3 rims together. Thoughts?

Well I have a 30 CFM Ingersol-Rand compressor. It's great, but recently I took off all my wheels to have them galvanized and I used my 1" long shaft air impact gun to remove the lug nuts. The impact weighs in at 30Ibs. After removing and then installing all those tires my arms where falling off ! Not to mention the condition of my back !
So I'm going to buy the Milwaukee 18volt 1" impact. It only weighs a total of 13Ibs (give or take a pound) . That will be so much easier on the arms and back !
Of course I also use the air compressor to run my sand-blast cabinet which needs 15 to 20 CFM, and my air blow guns. So a air compressor is still a vital tool I use. A smaller compressor would work though now that I will be using the Milwaukee electric impact for the lug nuts in the future. Another plus by owning an electric impact is no air hoses ! When I was removing the tires, I set down the impact (well dropped really) on the air hose coupler. Of course it broke, and that 1/2" air hose really started to whip around ! That would not happen with an electric impact. No hoses !

 

[HDN]

What's the battery life like on these guns when doing wheels? Could I take off at least 18 nuts with one charge, assuming they aren't totally stuck?

 

[Another Ahab]

- No problems whatever, but got to go check and see what model I picked up, just out of curiosity

Got a model 2763-20, never a problem with it

 

[jasonjc]

What's the battery life like on these guns when doing wheels? Could I take off at least 18 nuts with one charge, assuming they aren't totally stuck?

We can do a few set of wheels on the buses at work on a charge, that's the 5ah. The 6ah High Outputs they say work even better , haven't tried them on the impact yet but have use it on my circler saw and they are great.

 

[HDN]

As I've been doing some last-minute Black Friday shopping, I've found a couple tool review sources saying that nut-busting torque, or break-away torque, is fairly meaningless and is more of a marketing number than anything. For an example, the DeWalt DCF899M1 description says it has a break-away torque of 1,200 ft-lbs, but its maximum is more like 700 ft-lbs, which is also stated on the package. The Milwaukee 2767 description states 1,400 ft-lbs of nut-busting torque, but some YouTubers, however, have found that's actually close to what the gun can actually do. I guess depending on the manufacturer, YMMV.

From a shopping standpoint, considering that the Milwaukee 2767 kit is only $20 more than the DeWalt DCF899M1 kit and seems to demonstrate substantially more actual torque, I'm very much inclined to go with the Milwaukee tool.

 

[rustystud]

As I've been doing some last-minute Black Friday shopping, I've found a couple tool review sources saying that nut-busting torque, or break-away torque, is fairly meaningless and is more of a marketing number than anything. For an example, the DeWalt DCF899M1 description says it has a break-away torque of 1,200 ft-lbs, but its maximum is more like 700 ft-lbs, which is also stated on the package. The Milwaukee 2767 description states 1,400 ft-lbs of nut-busting torque, but some YouTubers, however, have found that's actually close to what the gun can actually do. I guess depending on the manufacturer, YMMV.

From a shopping standpoint, considering that the Milwaukee 2767 kit is only $20 more than the DeWalt DCF899M1 kit and seems to demonstrate substantially more actual torque, I'm very much inclined to go with the Milwaukee tool.

Your correct to take the factory numbers with a "grain of salt" . Also what a lot of people don't seem to understand is a 1/2" impact with great torque numbers still is not the same as a 3/4" or 1" impact with numbers very close. I know the heavy duty 1/2" Milwaukee is suppose to handle all this torque, but the truth is it cannot handle it for very long. I know as I own the heavy duty 1/2" Milwaukee. I'll give a comparison so most all will understand what I'm trying to say. Lets say you have a 4 cylinder Toyota that is suppose to put out 300HP. Also you have a truck diesel (lets say a Power Stroke) that puts out 300HP. Will that Toyota engine be able to replace the Power Stroke in the truck ? They have the same HP rating right ? So why can't you just swap them out ?
Now your seeing the reason the 1/2" impact will not handle the job the 1" impact can. Just as the Power Stroke is built to last under extreme pulling/towing conditions, so is the 1" impact able to handle removing truck lug nuts all day long. The 1" impact has larger bearings, larger striking hammers, larger motor. In general it is larger ! Same as the Toyota engine versus the Power Stroke engine. The Power stroke engine is larger to handle the daily load and not self-destruct.
I've seen mechanics buy the 3/8" impacts from Ingersol Rand back in the late 1980's who said they can handle pulling off head bolts from the DT466 IHC engines. After all Ingersol Rand rated that impact to 300 Ibs right !?!?
Yes they did pull off the head bolts. For a short time. A very short time. Then they all self-destructed.
So for those who want to pull off Deuce lug nuts with their Milwaukee 1/2" impacts, just be prepared to buy that impact again soon.

 

[Floridianson]

For everyday use on the smaller stuff ( car tires and such) I use my 1/2". For the truck tires my 3/4" one key has done the job every time so far. So for smitts and giggles I removed one lug nut cleaned threads with wire brush. Then as per manufactures recommendations two drops of oil on the threads. Then using the 3/4 I hit it will full charged 5.0 battery / full power or #4 setting and till the socket stopped moving. I then got out my beam torque wrench and worked the scale up from 300 to where the nut really moved which was just about 475/ 485 foot pounds. Now when I am doing the tires for real I do not hit the nut till it stops like I did for this test. I hit it and then finish off with the torque wrench to what ever I set it at. For the money spent I much rather have a 1/2" and 3/4" plus a proper torque wrench for doing truck tires. I feel a 1'' is going to sit in the tool box to long in less I worked in a truck tire shop. If I ever find a truck nut that the 3/4 will not pull off I would just grab the four way / cheater bar and bust it loose. A torque multiplier would do the same for getting a tight one off but I do not have or need one.
I worry more about the correct torque on install than I would ever worry about getting the nut loose.
If I was only doing my truck tires then I feel better money spent on a 3/4" and proper torque wrench than a 1" gun.
Even in my case my 3/4" sits in tool box or rides along in the truck gathering dust. Lucky me no flat tires on the road yet. The 1/2" gets used most everyday. Maybe if you have a truck that the wheels have never been taken off then maybe you need to remove the nuts and then retighten with what ever and the proper torque wrench. This might help if and when you need to remove a tire on the road or shop and don't have a four way / cheater bar or torque multiplier on hand to break it loose for the first time in 30 years.

 

[HDN]

I've seen geared torque multipliers mentioned a few times in this topic. It seems like an interesting tool, but I'm not familiar with it. Is there any case where someone would be better off with a geared torque multiplier instead of an impact wrench?

 

[rustystud]

I've seen geared torque multipliers mentioned a few times in this topic. It seems like an interesting tool, but I'm not familiar with it. Is there any case where someone would be better off with a geared torque multiplier instead of an impact wrench?

Geared multipliers are a great tool, but you must use a manual breaker bar or ratchet to use on them. Almost everyone says to "not" use an impact wrench on them. In fact I've never seen a multiplier that allowed using a impact wrench on it.

 

[rustystud]

For everyday use on the smaller stuff ( car tires and such) I use my 1/2". For the truck tires my 3/4" one key has done the job every time so far. So for smitts and giggles I removed one lug nut cleaned threads with wire brush. Then as per manufactures recommendations two drops of oil on the threads. Then using the 3/4 I hit it will full charged 5.0 battery / full power or #4 setting and till the socket stopped moving. I then got out my beam torque wrench and worked the scale up from 300 to where the nut really moved which was just about 475/ 485 foot pounds. Now when I am doing the tires for real I do not hit the nut till it stops like I did for this test. I hit it and then finish off with the torque wrench to what ever I set it at. For the money spent I much rather have a 1/2" and 3/4" plus a proper torque wrench for doing truck tires. I feel a 1'' is going to sit in the tool box to long in less I worked in a truck tire shop. If I ever find a truck nut that the 3/4 will not pull off I would just grab the four way / cheater bar and bust it loose. A torque multiplier would do the same for getting a tight one off but I do not have or need one.
I worry more about the correct torque on install than I would ever worry about getting the nut loose.
If I was only doing my truck tires then I feel better money spent on a 3/4" and proper torque wrench than a 1" gun.
Even in my case my 3/4" sits in tool box or rides along in the truck gathering dust. Lucky me no flat tires on the road yet. The 1/2" gets used most everyday. Maybe if you have a truck that the wheels have never been taken off then maybe you need to remove the nuts and then retighten with what ever and the proper torque wrench. This might help if and when you need to remove a tire on the road or shop and don't have a four way / cheater bar or torque multiplier on hand to break it loose for the first time in 30 years.

Well personally I don't like abusing my tools, so I will be using the correct tool (1" impact) to remove my lug nuts with.
Of course I've seen a lot of "hillbilly" mechanics use all kinds of tools to perform jobs they where never meant to.
It's a free country (at least for now) so do what you want with your tools.

 

[fpchief]

All this talk about cordless impacts has me rewriting my christmas list. I have a small dewalt but never considered a larger one for the lugs and so forth.

 

[rustystud]

All this talk about cordless impacts has me rewriting my christmas list. I have a small dewalt but never considered a larger one for the lugs and so forth.

In just the last few years, the electric impact manufactures (especially Milwaukee) have designed really great impacts with abilities that now rival air impacts.
I own one of the first "corded" electric impacts from Milwaukee. It's a nice tool, but not much power. Now the "cordless" ones from Milwaukee exceed the abilities of many air impacts. Like I mentioned in a earlier post. I removed all my Deuces wheels to get galvanized. I used my 1" air impact rated at 2,000 Ibs. It's a nice gun, but after removing and then re-installing the lug nuts I was extremely tired ! The gun weighs close to 30 Ibs. The new Milwaukee cordless electric 1" weighs in at 12Ibs and is able to remove and install my lug nuts just as easily.
Oh the joys of advanced technology !

 

[davidb56]

Part of that technology is closer tolerances. My IR 1/2 impact won't remove them at 90psi, but my new compressor is capable of 175psi, and I run it at around 140. It zips them right off, but I dont have that pressure on the deuce, so I just use the breaker/cheater bar if Im just changing out the front wheels away from the barn and compressor. I usually have a "ford" parked in front of the barn and plugged in during the winter.

 

[Another Ahab]

Of course I've seen a lot of "hillbilly" mechanics use all kinds of tools to perform jobs they where never meant to.

Helping a buddy with his home project one day, and he grabs a nice woodworking chisel (REAL nice), he owned where he needed a pry bar...

...didn't say a word.

 

[rustystud]

Helping a buddy with his home project one day, and he grabs a nice woodworking chisel (REAL nice), he owned where he needed a pry bar...

...didn't say a word.



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After I came back from trade school I lived with my parents for a year. I was working at IHC in Seattle. One day after coming home from work I saw my father and brother outside working on his old beater Dodge. When I came over they wherein the process of hitting my "Snap-On" breaker bar with a hammer to break a bolt loose !!! I totally lost my salvation !!!!!
Later my father said I should apologize to my brother for calling him names. I said that breaker bar cost over $100.00 (that's $100.00 in 1970's money) and I'm the one who should apologize ?!?!?!?
I still own that breaker bar, and every time I use it I remember my brother hitting it with that hammer as is still has the dents in the handle.

Now before anyone gets on my case about saying "Hillbillies" they need to know my family background a little. For example my family still practices "Shivaree" at weddings. If you don't know what that is then your not from the hills of Kentucky. Also one of my great-great grandfathers had "Daniel Boone" as his best man. He signed the wedding certificate as the best man witness. My brother has a copy of it. The original is still in the county courthouse.
What I'm trying to say is you don't have to shake my family tree very hard before certain people start falling out.