What dash valve to buy for air brakes?

[IridiumRed]

Can someone tell me what valve to buy to replace my dash brake valve? (Controls parking, trailer brakes). Mines got serious leak. I may try to clean it a bit, just to see what the effect is, but im not going to risk having that valve go bad again, i want new one

When it comes to air brakes, i know enough to diagnose and replace broken components, have them work well, but knowing what that part is to order another i struggle with (unless of course i can just find parts list / diagram online and order exact fit part that way).

Anyways, would like suggestions on what good quality part / brand. I dont mind spending $200 bucks if it means this valve assembly will last 20 years (considering this truck may only get 100k miles in those years). IE, i dont want / need cheap chinese one for $50 bucks if its likely to break a year down the road.

I dont care what name is on it, just want something that will work well, last well, be safe... and ill pay extra for peace of mind (within reason... im not going to even bother asking what oshkosh would want for one!!)

Thanks in advance!!


EDITED TO ADD - What do you guys think about these? I'm guessing this is the correct valve, and is a surplused military unit. Now, i know these might have been sitting around for years, so dry rot / aging is possible, but I may be comfortable with that (esp since, if i were to buy one of these, before using i'm likely to put some light lube inside and work by hand, make sure nothing is sticky....).

Haldex Midland Manifold Valve Assembly Military Brake Parking N4400B 3064940 | eBay

Another one, think its identical to first... just diff supplier (not sure how people on here feel about Seco... are they typically good or bad?)

Haldex Midland Manifold Valve Assembly Military Brake Parking N4400B 3064940 | eBay

 

[juanprado]

Haldex makes the valve and appears to be out there in the civy world. Napa and other farm or hd parts store can source.

https://www.haldex.com/en/na/valves/hand-control-valves/haldex-newremanufactured/manifold-dash-style-a/kn20611-0f8c73e0/

Repair kit is available. See listing above towards bottom for service items.

Seco has lots of negative reviews here. Do your research. Ymmv

Lots of Chineseum out there on this part. I would use a haldex oe part.

 

[IridiumRed]

Thats awesome, that gives me a ton of good info. I really like the repair kit too, I'll prob buy new valve + get repair kit too (I think very long term, i plan on having my MK25 as long as I live.... And am very short on local parts stores that stock anything.... gotta drive better part of 2 hours round trip to get to actual "truck shops")

Thanks for headsup about Seco... I suspected something like that (thought the name sounded familiar.... which typically means they're either doing a really good, or really bad, job)

 

[IridiumRed]

Went ahead and splurged a bit, bought brand new haldex/midland valve from napa. Have in hand now, prob be tomorrow before i get it on. Had to drive a ways to get it, but happy to have. Wanna get my air brake leaks taken care of, and the dash valve had huge leak that overwhelmed everything else.

Decided to just buy new. Most of the other stuff i work on is older and well worn..... or worse. This 7ton is nicest, cleanest truck im around, and feel good to have dash valve that doesnt feel half worn out

Hanks for your help everybody. I do love this place. Ill be posting a lot more now that i actually might have useful.comments or questions

 

[IridiumRed]

Got valve put in, seemed to work great. The side of the system that had big leak, (primary / secondary), thats gone now. Was using shop air to pressurize truck system, only was doing one of the systems (the one that had a big leak). That big leak is gone now (it was bad enough that when you turned engine off, you could just watch the needle fall. Prob 15 seconds to zero. Now is at maybe 2 or 3 psi loss per minute, so big improvement. Will chase down the little remaining leaks.... but at least it doesn't seem like i have any major items left...

 

[Mullaney]

Got valve put in, seemed to work great. The side of the system that had big leak, (primary / secondary), thats gone now. Was using shop air to pressurize truck system, only was doing one of the systems (the one that had a big leak). That big leak is gone now (it was bad enough that when you turned engine off, you could just watch the needle fall. Prob 15 seconds to zero. Now is at maybe 2 or 3 psi loss per minute, so big improvement. Will chase down the little remaining leaks.... but at least it doesn't seem like i have any major items left...

.
Good for you!
Yep, air from House Air, then a spray bottle of soapy water for the rest of the leaks...

 

[IridiumRed]

Working on MTVR yesterday, had new dash valve in, was running shop air into trucks system (i pulled off the drain valves under batt box and put quick connectors there, worked well for me). Went around w spray bottle of soapy water, looking for leaks.


Found a few leaks (fairly minor ones at that, but still nice to catch). One spot was on the glad hands. .mil had ziptied them in place (which generally is smart, do not want them coming loose). Zipties had put a little pressure on the seals, made them kinda sit at an angle (and not line up perfectly) and leak ever so slightly.


Unhooked all the gladhands covers, cleaned and lubed some. Also found a few little leaks here and there. Had to go home to take care of my dad for a little while. I marked where the pressure was before leaving / checked it when i got back. Gone 3 hours, only lost about 10 psi. After that, i found / resolved a few more minor leaks.I ran the truck for a little while... needed to run her to get her warm to check tranny fluid level too (i changed filters, put Transynd in a few days ago). Man she builds air so much faster now that theres no major leak!! (Way better on air compessor, air system dryer and all that too)


I cant wait to get out there this morning and see how much air is still in the system. Im betting that she has... at least half left?? Will see.


Ideally, in perfect world, it would be zero loss, but keeping most of the air overnight makes me very happy. Ive got a bunch of old trucks i work on on a regular basis that range from a little leaky to a lot leaky. Just dont have time / resources to fix really (well, if i have the time/ energy / opportunity to work on them, theres stuff thats needed more, so those other things are where my efforts will go).


Long story short(er), if i get to shop this morning and she has more than half left in the tanks, im going to be a happy man. With the big leak i started w (bad dash valve), i wasnt sure just how much work it was going to be getting air system to a good place. Truck only shows 1200 miles / 200 hours, but shes 20 years old, dry rot is a b@tch, and so is rather indifferent / random maintenace.

Oh yeah, i tested system both w parking brake applied and with park brake off / service brake applied (got a handy tool to go between seat and pedal that pushes on pedal and holds it by itself, very handy, need to take pic of that and share). Didnt want to find i suddenly had leak when using brakes... like bad chamber, diaphragm, valve etc).

 

[IridiumRed]

Went in yesterday, truck after sitting 24 hours was only down 30 psi on air pressure. Made me a very happy man

(Of course, my OCD side is like "hey, that means youve only got tiny little leaks, perhaps ONE tiny little leak somewhere... be easy to fix if you find it... then you'd have perfect air pressure. You're so close....")

My brain is such a battle between Dr Jekyll and Mr Jackass, haha. At least focusing my efforts on my 7Ton are a lot more productive than other sh@t i could be doing