hypertex
New member
- 25
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- Location
- Bullhead City, AZ
Here's a pic showing I had a problem. It was an extremely slow leak from the coupling hose right behind the filters. At first I thought that the clamp had just worked loose. Tightened it and idled for 30 minutes but the seepage returned. Was able to replace the couplers at both ends only removing the front filter housing.
Replaced the hoses on the oil cooler water line with nice new silicone hoses. Thanks for the suggestion Rusty!
Filled it up with Fleetguard coolant(hmmm..it's red!)
Soon afterwards I noticed the brake lights were inoperative. Read up on others experiences and went to work. Continuity showed good on the switch but wouldn't light up save my shorting the contacts. "Ohmed out" the switch; showed open and 1000 ohms. It's possible some voltage was passing, but not enough to be noticeable at the light during the day. Perhaps this resistance can be used for troubleshooting.
Went online to Erik's and secured the switch(I also asked for valve cover gasket availability but they're still out.) Was worried about removing the hydraulic switch because several members mentioned it would snap off. Only thing that came to mind was that something other than teflon was used when the part was installed. With the help of a propane torch and laser thermometer I heated the nose up to 180 degrees. I didn't feel comfortable going higher because I didn't know if any seals lived in the nose. Applied steady force with a 1" socket and removed the switch intact. Installation was a snap because of info and pics on this great site.
Next up: peashooter's brake line upgrade, coolant filter and a valve adjustment
Replaced the hoses on the oil cooler water line with nice new silicone hoses. Thanks for the suggestion Rusty!
Filled it up with Fleetguard coolant(hmmm..it's red!)
Soon afterwards I noticed the brake lights were inoperative. Read up on others experiences and went to work. Continuity showed good on the switch but wouldn't light up save my shorting the contacts. "Ohmed out" the switch; showed open and 1000 ohms. It's possible some voltage was passing, but not enough to be noticeable at the light during the day. Perhaps this resistance can be used for troubleshooting.
Went online to Erik's and secured the switch(I also asked for valve cover gasket availability but they're still out.) Was worried about removing the hydraulic switch because several members mentioned it would snap off. Only thing that came to mind was that something other than teflon was used when the part was installed. With the help of a propane torch and laser thermometer I heated the nose up to 180 degrees. I didn't feel comfortable going higher because I didn't know if any seals lived in the nose. Applied steady force with a 1" socket and removed the switch intact. Installation was a snap because of info and pics on this great site.
Next up: peashooter's brake line upgrade, coolant filter and a valve adjustment
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