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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Menaces Nemesis

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View attachment 716824View attachment 716825View attachment 716829View attachment 716830View attachment 716831View attachment 716832View attachment 716833 I purchased this whole 5 Ton intake set up from C&C several years ago. You have to do some cutting and welding to shorten things up, as the 5 Ton is longer from the firewall forward. The flex hose is 4 1/2 In Dia., and there is a piece of (2 3/4 D X 1 1/4 W) hi temp hose on the intake end of the turbo that the shortened bellows hose fits over. The rest is pretty much straight forward. I now have about 4000+ miles on this set up with no problems. I made this modification to accommodate an LDS engine down the road. Hope this helps.
In pic 5, looks like you might have some oil seepage between the intake elbow to manifold (top edge of the pic, on the left side)... unless the oil is migrating from somewhere else, you might want to pull the intake hose off the turbo, make sure the compessor wheel/housing is dry inside, your shaft play isn't too sloppy, and your turbo seals aren't shot.
 
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Tracer

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In pic 5, looks like you might have some oil seepage between the intake elbow to manifold... unless the oil is migrating from somewhere else, you might want to pull the intake hose off the turbo, make sure the compessor wheel/housing is dry inside, your shaft play isn't too sloppy, and your turbo seals aren't shot.
The pictures were taken while I was putting things together 4 years ago. As you can see on pic 6 the hose clamp on the intake side is crooked. Guess you could call it a dry run. My beloved C Turbo was rebuilt before everything went together for good.
 

Menaces Nemesis

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The pictures were taken while I was putting things together 4 years ago. As you can see on pic 6 the hose clamp on the intake side is crooked. Guess you could call it a dry run. My beloved C Turbo was rebuilt before everything went together for good.
In pic 6, from the looks of the matching overspray, which had been partially worn/washed off, on the bellows hose, compressor/bellows clamp, and compressor housing, the undisturbed dust on the bellow hose, and in pic 4 the paint rust-through on the corners of the notch you had to make in the right headlight panel brace to accomodate the new duct, the dry run must've taken quite awhile :)
 
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rustystud

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In pic 6, from the looks of the matching overspray, which had been partially worn/washed off, on the bellows hose, compressor/bellows clamp, and compressor housing, the undisturbed dust on the bellow hose, and in pic 4 the paint rust-through on the corners of the notch you had to make in the right headlight panel brace to accomodate the new duct, the dry run must've taken quite awhile :)
I think he did an excellent job !
 

Wolfgang the Gray

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View attachment 716481 With snow, rain and wind in the forecast, I decided to install my new cab cover. It's originally made as a nylon cover for quad runner vehicles. It also has an elastic band along the bottom so it stays put in the wind. When it snows and rains I usually have leaks around the side window frames and the soft top. So I hope this puts an end to the puddles of water on the cab floor after it rains. You can find them in different colors and sizes online. Just pick your color, measure your cab and order. Got the idea from our very own BigMike.
Cool looking cover!

Ok, here is a question that I keep thinking when I hear people talking about ponds in the cab. Why not just open the winch control flap or the brake fluid flap & let the water drain out on the drivers side? As for the passenger side, what about tapping a small hole in the floor & putting a bolt in it? My Jeep has drain plugs in the floor so I can drain any water that puddles inside.
 
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Wolfgang the Gray

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Anyone know if Skysol 100 is available anywhere? I' going to be doing some Axle work & the TM says to use that for cleaning the axle flange & hub.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

1. Clean gasket (4) remains from mating surfaces.

WARNING Skysol 100 solvent is combustible; DO NOT use or store near heat, sparks, flame, or other ignition sources. Use mechanical ventilation whenever product is used in a confined space, heated above ambient temperatures, or agitated. Keep container sealed when not in use. Contact with Skysol 100 may cause skin irritation. Use chemical-resistant gloves. In case of skin contact, remove any contaminated clothing and wash skin thoroughly with soap and water. Wash contaminated clothing before reuse. Eye contact may cause irritation, tearing, or blurring of vision. Use face shield or goggles when eye contact may occur. In case of eye contact, flush eyes with large amounts of water for at least 15 minutes or until irritation subsides. Inhalation may cause irritation to upper respiratory passages. DO NOT have food or drink in the vicinity. Failure to comply may result in injury to personnel.

2. Clean axle flange (3) in Skysol 100 and dry with clean rag.
3. Clean gasket (4) surface on hub (5) with rag saturated with Skysol 100, and dry with clean rag.
4. Inspect axle flange (3) for:
a. Cracks and breaks. Replace if cracked or broken.
b. Nicked, burred, or cracked female splines. Remove minor nicks or burrs with fine-mill file or emery cloth. Replace splines if cracked.
c. Inspect plug (7) for tightness. Replace if loose or leaking lubricant.
5. Inspect male splines on axle shaft (6) for nicks, burrs, or cracks. Remove minor nicks or burrs with fine-mill file or emery cloth. Replace axle shaft if splines are cracked (WP 0142 00).

I tried a search, but found nothing.
 
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frank8003

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Wolfgang the Gray

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Sounds remarkably like PD680 or methyl ethyl ketone. MEK
According to the link frank8003 posted, "APC Tech Message #92—Authorizes SKYSOL® as an environmentally compliant replacement for PD-680, Type I &Type II for cleaning U.S. Army weapons, ground vehicles, equipment, and aviation materials."

Sounds like it is better than PD680. Dawn & water sounds easier, but I figured keep water away from the axle shaft would be best. Oh well, will see what I can come up with. Thanks for the info, guys.

 

rustystud

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Anyone know if Skysol 100 is available anywhere? I' going to be doing some Axle work & the TM says to use that for cleaning the axle flange & hub.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

1. Clean gasket (4) remains from mating surfaces.

WARNING Skysol 100 solvent is combustible; DO NOT use or store near heat, sparks, flame, or other ignition sources. Use mechanical ventilation whenever product is used in a confined space, heated above ambient temperatures, or agitated. Keep container sealed when not in use. Contact with Skysol 100 may cause skin irritation. Use chemical-resistant gloves. In case of skin contact, remove any contaminated clothing and wash skin thoroughly with soap and water. Wash contaminated clothing before reuse. Eye contact may cause irritation, tearing, or blurring of vision. Use face shield or goggles when eye contact may occur. In case of eye contact, flush eyes with large amounts of water for at least 15 minutes or until irritation subsides. Inhalation may cause irritation to upper respiratory passages. DO NOT have food or drink in the vicinity. Failure to comply may result in injury to personnel.

2. Clean axle flange (3) in Skysol 100 and dry with clean rag.
3. Clean gasket (4) surface on hub (5) with rag saturated with Skysol 100, and dry with clean rag.
4. Inspect axle flange (3) for:
a. Cracks and breaks. Replace if cracked or broken.
b. Nicked, burred, or cracked female splines. Remove minor nicks or burrs with fine-mill file or emery cloth. Replace splines if cracked.
c. Inspect plug (7) for tightness. Replace if loose or leaking lubricant.
5. Inspect male splines on axle shaft (6) for nicks, burrs, or cracks. Remove minor nicks or burrs with fine-mill file or emery cloth. Replace axle shaft if splines are cracked (WP 0142 00).

I tried a search, but found nothing.
Just use "Lacquer thinner" . I use it all the time to clean all my greasy messes. Has worked fine for years now.
 

Jericho

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MEK and PD 680 were nasty, cancer causing and environmentally devastating, AF used it for years and it was commonly disposed of down the drains In the jet engine shop we used to plunge our hands into it in the agitating vats then sluff off a layer of skin before chow. I agree with Rusty, THinner. or a simple bath in diesel if appropriate. Although I have seen MEK for sale in the large box store building supply stores.
 

rustystud

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MEK and PD 680 were nasty, cancer causing and environmentally devastating, AF used it for years and it was commonly disposed of down the drains In the jet engine shop we used to plunge our hands into it in the agitating vats then sluff off a layer of skin before chow. I agree with Rusty, THinner. or a simple bath in diesel if appropriate. Although I have seen MEK for sale in the large box store building supply stores.
I still use MEK for certain cleaning jobs. Jobs that require that "No" residue is left over from cleaning. Axles don't qualify for that kind of clean though.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Cool looking cover!

Ok, here is a question that I keep thinking when I hear people talking about ponds in the cab. Why not just open the winch control flap or the brake fluid flap & let the water drain out on the drivers side? As for the passenger side, what about tapping a small hole in the floor & putting a bolt in it? My Jeep has drain plugs in the floor so I can drain any water that puddles inside.
I was meaning to answer your question a while back but forgot. The holes in the lower door support bracket are there just for this purpose. In the Marines we used to "hose" down our deuces cab after playing in the mud. Just be careful to keep the water out of the dash. If you look closely at the deuce floor pan it slopes towards the doors.
 
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Wolfgang the Gray

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I was meaning to answer your question a while back but forgot. The wholes in the lower door support bracket are there just for this purpose. We used to "hose" down our deuces cab after playing in the mud. Just be careful to keep the water out of the dash. If you look closely at the deuce floor pan it slopes towards the doors.
Yes, I noticed water came into the cab through the floor when I was washing the engine bay for the MV Show in January.
 

Wolfgang the Gray

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M35A2-AZ & I pulled apart my mid axle to look for a possible brake leak. Both outer seals needed replaced & differential fluid was leaking past the woodruff. No brake leak though so we cleaned out the green cheese looking gunk & replaced with high temp bearing grease. Start to finish with me asking loads of questions, just over 4-hrs. A wonderful learning experience for me (my first time doing this).
IMAG9722.jpgIMAG9725.jpgIMAG9726.jpgIMAG9732.jpgIMAG9739.jpgIMAG9751.jpgIMAG9757.jpgIMAG9758.jpgIMAG9774.jpg
 

Valence

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Davis County, UT
M35A2-AZ & I pulled apart my mid axle to look for a possible brake leak. Both outer seals needed replaced & differential fluid was leaking past the woodruff. No brake leak though so we cleaned out the green cheese looking gunk & replaced with high temp bearing grease. Start to finish with me asking loads of questions, just over 4-hrs. A wonderful learning experience for me (my first time doing this).
Beautiful and super clean looking job!
 

DieselBob

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Arnold Maryland
M35A2-AZ & I pulled apart my mid axle to look for a possible brake leak. Both outer seals needed replaced & differential fluid was leaking past the woodruff. No brake leak though so we cleaned out the green cheese looking gunk & replaced with high temp bearing grease. Start to finish with me asking loads of questions, just over 4-hrs. A wonderful learning experience for me (my first time doing this).
Well to date that is the strangest looking what ever, that is suppose to be some type of grease / lube that I've seen in a wheel bearing. Nice job on the cleanup and reassemble.
 
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