What did you do to your deuce this week?

[Nomad1]

That style tailgate is found just on the dropside trucks.

I figured it was government issue but ther was a reason it was different. I find there are different thing here and there on these trucks.

 

[emeralcove]

Privatewrench, your before picture looks just like my bed except it isn't a drop side but the paint condition, white residue from the Ospho and brush strokes are the same, your after photo inspires me that a little more work and it may not be perfect but will look fantastic for a military truck. Thanks for the very nice incentive pictures.

 

[Privatewrench]

Privatewrench, your before picture looks just like my bed except it isn't a drop side but the paint condition, white residue from the Ospho and brush strokes are the same, your after photo inspires me that a little more work and it may not be perfect but will look fantastic for a military truck. Thanks for the very nice incentive pictures.

Truth-be-told, the sand blaster kept clogging up while doing the tailgate, so I only used the power washer (water only) on the side. I have a fine narrow tip for the power washer that knocked everything off perfectly. With the Ospho, I didn't have to sand down the rust at all. Made the side a lot easier to do and didn't take much time.

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[emeralcove]

I will try the pressure washer, your results speak for themselves. I have no actual "rust" issues except for the beginning surface rust and am looking to make it look nice while providing a layer of corrosion protection while I work on other aspects. At some time in the past someone decided the stake pockets should have a triangle section cut out on both sides, I assume to be able to pry the stake sides up a little to pull them out. I plan to close up these holes by welding in small filler pieces and thought I would try the method used when sanitary welding pipe, by filling the pipe with the shielding gas it prevents the inside from rapid oxidation due to being at melting temperature and exposed to oxygen. It leaves the inside smooth and blemish free as the outside weld and hopefully with out "buggers" inside to jam the stakes being inserted. Sanitary welding is used for food process piping so the inside can be chemically cleaned as it is not possible to physically scrub the surface and it HAS to be blemish free. But that is just one project on a long list of projects that I want to do.

 

[cattlerepairman]

My drop sides did not come with the cargo tie down pockets and anchors.

Here is how to fix that:
1) get and read TB9-2300-280-30 cargo tie down install. http://imfmotorpool.com/010913.PDF

A M35A2C needs eight on each long side, two in the tail gate and two in the front for a total of 20.

2) get the tie downs. Mine came from Coleman's surplus: https://colemans.com/military-cargo-tie-down-assembly

3) remove the amber and red reflectors and all cargo cover hooks. The hooks are riveted - grind them off and save yourself the aggravation and grind the reflector bolts off as well.

View attachment 772480

4) The cargo tie down kit comes with a metal template. Use a sharpie and mark the location of the cutouts.

View attachment 772481

5) You need to cut 4 inch holes. Grab a hole saw and sprain your wrist. Grab a cutting torch and set your CARC paint on fire. Or grab a small bimetal hole saw, make a hole for the pulling stud of the awesome Greenlee hole punch and start cranking



6) No need for the gym today. Keep on making holes.




7) Grab the backing plates from the kit and weld them in place. I am the world's worst welder and you do not get to see a close up! If you are even worse than I, you can simply bolt them in place. 4 stainless 7/16 short bolts and lock nuts and you are in business.



Attach the tie down hooks on the inside of the bed with the supplied 4 short bolts, washer and nut. Do that 32 times per side.

9) Grab chilled beverage and jump into pool. Tomorrow is another day to tackle the other side!

 

[cattlerepairman]

Oh, and because Murphy did not seem to have been around lately, but is always up for having a gay old time, I got to spot this as I was cleaning up from my ties down anchor job:


Is this....??


Oh, it sure is! Inside of rim is all wet. Thanks, Murphy. Didn't have one leaking in two years.

 

[whatadeuce]

WEll to day I continued the installation of the new MASTER CYLINDER for my Bomb Truck ,and M35A2. I noticed something about the 3/8" air line that connects the rear of the master cylinder to the air pak. The original is made of steel amd difficult to work with. I propose that line be made of copper, type L, and in addition the connection starting from the back of the master cylinder include two nine degree elbows. Please remember that schedule L copper tubing is used in refrigeration work, at pressures exceeding 400 PSIG, so there is no change of line failure at compressor pressures of 100 PSIG.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

WEll to day I continued the installation of the new MASTER CYLINDER for my Bomb Truck ,and M35A2. I noticed something about the 3/8" air line that connects the rear of the master cylinder to the air pak. The original is made of steel amd difficult to work with. I propose that line be made of copper, type L, and in addition the connection starting from the back of the master cylinder include two nine degree elbows. Please remember that schedule L copper tubing is used in refrigeration work, at pressures exceeding 400 PSIG, so there is no change of line failure at compressor pressures of 100 PSIG.

Confusing post, master cylinder connects to the slave/airpack via a single 's' bend 5/16 brake line fitting.

The slave/airpack has the large 3/8 metal "J" pipe. And it's threaded on both ends, very easy to remove by loosening both ends. Adding several more points of failure(4 more with two "L" connections) seems like a step in the wrong direction. Plus more complicated.

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[whatadeuce]

Thank you kaiser67M715, I have now included an image of the line I refered to, from TM0-2320-209-20-2-2 iThe next time I do this particular repair, I shall use copper line and the double flare fittings the fit . My plan is to lengthin the copper line so as to give me flexibility because of its added length, and increased pliabilty of the softer copper.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Thank you kaiser67M715, I have now included an image of the line I refered to, from TM0-2320-209-20-2-2 iThe next time I do this particular repair, I shall use copper line and the double flare fittings the fit . My plan is to lengthin the copper line so as to give me flexibility because of its added length, and increased pliabilty of the softer copper.

Use copper nickel brake line for that, pressure output from the master cylinder can exceed 400psi, that line is filled with brake fluid, not air. It's also a 5/16 line. While a little difficult to get lined up, you also don't want to compete tighten both ends until you have both of the fittings started as to allow some movement.

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[nchittendon]

The old girl lost some weight this summer.

My rig is primarily for camping. My M105 has been turned into the bunkhouse for 3, and the truck will be our "master suite" for momma and I.

The bed got 38" cut out of it. My son and I prepped and painted the box once we got it back on. We also shortened up the troop seats since the truck will need to haul people one last time for the company I work for. Then the troop seats will be removed/and the uprights re-purposed. The bows will be raised about a foot, or a little more, and then I start my RV build. In the mean time I need to go pick up the second cab that is going to be mounted on the truck. I have a family of five, so this project will make it so we can all ride together.




And in the midst of all that, I also added 300 watts of solar power to the camper trailer.

 

[Another Ahab]

And in the midst of all that, I also added 300 watts of solar power to the camper trailer.
View attachment 772759

The plan sounds great, nchittendon.

About the solar panels:

- What's the recommendation for cleaning those things (keeping them top-efficient)?

 

[whatadeuce]

This is the height of creativity! You and your family will greatly enjoy this for years to come.

 

[Nomad1]

I plan shorting a full size bed down to put on mine and making it a dump. Would love to see more picture of the bed and how you went about it.

The old girl lost some weight this summer.

My rig is primarily for camping. My M105 has been turned into the bunkhouse for 3, and the truck will be our "master suite" for momma and I.

The bed got 38" cut out of it. My son and I prepped and painted the box once we got it back on. We also shortened up the troop seats since the truck will need to haul people one last time for the company I work for. Then the troop seats will be removed/and the uprights re-purposed. The bows will be raised about a foot, or a little more, and then I start my RV build. In the mean time I need to go pick up the second cab that is going to be mounted on the truck. I have a family of five, so this project will make it so we can all ride together.

View attachment 772757View attachment 772758View attachment 772756


And in the midst of all that, I also added 300 watts of solar power to the camper trailer.
View attachment 772759

 

[nchittendon]

Some more pics of the bed as requested.

 

[nchittendon]

The plan sounds great, nchittendon.

About the solar panels:

- What's the recommendation for cleaning those things (keeping them top-efficient)?

In the manual it simply recommends to wash with soap and water. I've been using dish soap.

 

[Another Ahab]

Some more pics of the bed as requested.

View attachment 772768

Nice looking work:

- How did you make the cuts in the bed?

 

[Nomad1]

You stole my question haha

Nice looking work:

- How did you make the cuts in the bed?

 

[Another Ahab]

Nice looking work:

- How did you make the cuts in the bed?

You stole my question haha

How about this, Nomad1:

- You can have the goal, and I'll take the assist

You and me get a point either way!


https://www.reddit.com/r/hockey/com..._assist_by/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x

 

[Elijah95]

In the manual it simply recommends to wash with soap and water. I've been using dish soap.

I wonder if it would hurt to wax them afterwards


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