What did you do to your deuce this week?

[frank8003]

G'day mate! Towards the end of your video where the cable keeps jumping to the left, is it maybe twisted (like a garden hose) so it is trying to curl up? Maybe lock the drum & twist the rest of the free cable to fix that? Also, concerning your cable lube, did you just pour motor oil on it as it was rolled out or did you dip it?

I haven't had my winch cable out since I got my Deuce in 2016 so I've been wanting to pull it out & lube it up. I was going to pull the cable out & put a weight on it (my Jeep) and keep the Deuce still with my wife in the cab running the winch (with a winch blanket) & me helping the winch rewind nice & orderly while wearing heavy cloves to ensure I don't get any metal splinters in my hands.

Just Do Not call the Wife soldier "B"
Times will get bad if You do............

 

[Dipstick]

They ae bad here too. They make their nests in the cab often, and always on the bed frames. I was using Spectricide" but recently it seems like the producers have watered it down and I have to water board them with it, then smash them. So now I use cheap brake clean.

I use brake clean all the time. I'll have to try that. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Dipstick]

I use a shop vac for leaves in my yard (rock yards in AZ) because I can neither mulch or rake & leaf blowers just swirl them around the yard as the wind counters my efforts like a fencing opponent.

Yup. I know what you mean. I have an area of my driveway between the house and garage that is like a leaf whirlpool. I clean it ten times every year, but there are always leaves there all Winter. They plug up my snow blower some times.

 

[davidb56]

y

I wish I were as good a welder as you are. I should have realized the brace is not fastened to the hood in the middle. I hear you about the nice curve. Whenever I stand or sit on the hood of my Deuce to work on the wipers, the hood dimples in (I only weigh 150 lbs.). I usually just open the hood afterwards and with one push of the hand it goes right back into shape. A lot of old-timers used to braze metal. I may try that on my cracks. I'd just get some brazing rod, flux, and use my map gas torch. Good luck on your repairs and thanks for the pics!

Your map gas torch won't work. too wide of flame, no heat cone, and not hot enough. you can get a small portable oxygen-acetyline torch kit from the big box stores, and they will have a brazing tip with it.

 

[Dipstick]

y

Your map gas torch won't work. too wide of flame, no heat cone, and not hot enough. you can get a small portable oxygen-acetyline torch kit from the big box stores, and they will have a brazing tip with it.

I'm glad you set me straight. I was probably thinking of silver soldering, which I did successfully years ago. I'll be looking for that mini-torch set at the big boxes as you suggest. Do you think brazing would be a good way to repair those tiny cracks? Thanks again for your advice. I appreciate it!

 

[davidb56]

there will be some metal distortion from heat. The big problem is that the metal is old and fatigued, so it may crack again right next to the repair. thats why the fish plates are needed. even a Harbor Freight spot welder would work good on light gauge steel with fishplates. If you intensions are for a parade vehicle, then have a body shop repair it, as they have the equipment to weld light gauge steel. I f you beat the crap out of it like me, sand it, weld it, grind it and primer it.

 

[Dipstick]

Its about 3 years old. It will be my back up one now, since I got a gas powered one that I got in the bed of the deuce to operate my log lift for extra heavy green Hemlock firewood rounds, and another electric one since.

DavidB that's pretty cool. You could also have posted that in the thread "Uses for Deuces". I'm pretty sure there is one named something like that.

 

[Dipstick]

I'm getting excited about driving Brutus to his annual inspection on this coming Tuesday. I haven't been able to drive him for about two months now, because the truck shop I use didn't have any new inspection stickers. I'm also waiting on a 1/8" x 27 NPT tap so I can thread the hole I drilled as the result of me busting off a grease fitting. Even broke my 40 year old tap handle trying to get it out with an easy out. I should have left well enough alone and just greased the rear shackle spring pin. But no, I had to have a new grease fitting darn it.

 

[wiggall]

Replace the J pipe!

 

[Dipstick]

Replace the J pipe!

Awesome! I need to replace mine too. Probably will when I replace the front fenders. Hopefully this Spring. Where did you get the J-pipe from? Were the gaskets included?

 

[Aussie Bloke]

G'day everyone,.....

G'day mate! Towards the end of your video where the cable keeps jumping to the left, is it maybe twisted (like a garden hose) so it is trying to curl up? Also, concerning your cable lube, did you just pour motor oil on it as it was rolled out or did you dip it?

You will notice the direction the cable is twisted,..... (to the right) so when released from load it will try to unload in the opposite direction hence its tendency to move to the left.

I unspooled the whole cable then holding a rag under the cable to cup it I then filled that cup with engine oil and move the cupped rag along the cable.

This way the cable is in effect 'dipped' in oil, as the cable is wound onto the drum under load it will stretch and this will allow the oil to work its way between ALL the strands. This provides long term protection.

Its a cheap way to protect your cable and get the protection.

Its a good way to use your used engine oil as it puts it to good use.



Aussie.

 

[wiggall]

Awesome! I need to replace mine too. Probably will when I replace the front fenders. Hopefully this Spring. Where did you get the J-pipe from? Were the gaskets included?

www. boyceeguipment.com They are in Odgen, utah, and no gaskets.

 

[Dipstick]

I drilled out my broken off Zerk fitting with a 21/64 bit and tapped it with 1/8-27 NPT tap. The new threads don't look so great, but they seemed to hold the new Zerk just fine. What was left of the original grease fittings threads came out with the tap as you can see in the middle picture. I think that caused the roughness of the new threads. I'm having trouble getting new grease into it. I think the old grease has hardened. I've seen grease in old bushings and pins that looks like hardened, dried out dirt. I'd be open to suggestions on how to soften it up so I can get new grease in. I've tried using penetrating oil in the past with little effect. I take Brutus to inspection tomorrow. It will be the first time I've driven him in about two months.

 

[cattlerepairman]

FWIW, I asked my friend who is a whiz heavy equipment mechanic and he pointed at his Milwaukee battery powered grease gun and said that this thing pushes old grease out like crazy. He said if the Milwaukee with the FUEL battery can't move it, he knows he has to disassemble the joint and clean it manually. He rates the Milwaukee at giving him an 80% chance of success or better of NOT having to rip things apart.

 

[Dipstick]

Thank you cattlerepairman! I was thinking of something along those lines. I was just about to put more muscle into my grease gun's lever, but I got worried about the pressure blowing my new fitting out. The threads I got in it were far from perfect due to the old grease fitting threads backing out with the tap. I didn't want to push my luck. I have no means of lifting my truck up high enough to take the weight off the spring to get the pin out. I guess I'll just have to take the chance and put more arm into the grease gun. Thanks very much for the suggestion and for taking the time to reply. I bet it's getting pretty darn cold up where you are about now!

 

[Mullaney]

View attachment 820151View attachment 820152View attachment 820153
I drilled out my broken off Zerk fitting with a 21/64 bit and tapped it with 1/8-27 NPT tap. The new threads don't look so great, but they seemed to hold the new Zerk just fine. What was left of the original grease fittings threads came out with the tap as you can see in the middle picture. I think that caused the roughness of the new threads. I'm having trouble getting new grease into it. I think the old grease has hardened. I've seen grease in old bushings and pins that looks like hardened, dried out dirt. I'd be open to suggestions on how to soften it up so I can get new grease in. I've tried using penetrating oil in the past with little effect. I take Brutus to inspection tomorrow. It will be the first time I've driven him in about two months.

I have used a drill bit - by hand, not in the drill - and cleaned out the old hard grease in spring pins before. It isn't perfect, but it gets most of the crud out so the new stuff can get through... I start with a small bit, then try something larger. The old grease comes out fairly easy and you spend more time cleaning up the bits than anything.
.

 

[Dipstick]

Hiya Tim! Been wondering how you've been. Yeah, the grease in the passage seems fine. I think it's the grease in between the spring and pin that's hard. Or maybe I'm just using too light a touch on the grease gun. I tend to be like that. I will give your suggestion a try though. Then I'll squirt some PB Blaster in the hole and let it incubate for a while. Cattlerepairman weighed in too. Now that Queen Lola is put up for the Winter he has much more time to advise me! Brutus has his inspection tomorrow. I don't think I've driven him in two or three months. I hope all goes well. Hope you and Cattlerepairman are both well too.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Now that Queen Lola is put up for the Winter he has much more time to advise me! Hope you and Cattlerepairman are both well too.

Dipstick, you know me already! So far, winter is mild, a little snow, a little rain, generally just a bit below freezing. My theory is that every day without a foot of snow dropping from the sky is a win and makes real winter one day shorter. Let us know how it goes and good luck for the inspection.

 

[Dipstick]

Cattlerepairman, it's been about the same down here. I would've thought you'd have tons of snow by now. It gets really cold in Canada doesn't it? I will let everyone know. I'm taking the old windows with the stickers on them with me just in case I get stopped. I have the winter front on, the block heater plugged in, and anti-gel in the tank. I started Brutus today and he fired right up. I think it's supposed to be in the high twenties tonight. The charging gauge was in the yellow. It does that sometimes. Usually a bump in the road gets it in the green again. My batteries are seven years old though.

 

[Mullaney]

Hiya Tim! Been wondering how you've been. Yeah, the grease in the passage seems fine. I think it's the grease in between the spring and pin that's hard. Or maybe I'm just using too light a touch on the grease gun. I tend to be like that. I will give your suggestion a try though. Then I'll squirt some PB Blaster in the hole and let it incubate for a while. Cattlerepairman weighed in too. Now that Queen Lola is put up for the Winter he has much more time to advise me! Brutus has his inspection tomorrow. I don't think I've driven him in two or three months. I hope all goes well. Hope you and Cattlerepairman are both well too.

Hi Owen!

Yes sir. Things are much happier now that my M1088 has batteries that are attached to the truck. I learned things that I wouldn't have ever needed had the theft not happened... On the other hand, knowledge is a good thing.

Some sort of penetrating oil soaking overnight is bound to help. I have used a jack to raise the frame a little and sometimes that helps as well. Relieve the stress and give the grease a place to go.

I am with you on taking it easy. I have broken too many things being aggressive. Took me a while to figure out that forcing it wasn't always the answer

Tim