• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What did you do to your deuce this week?

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
I have a question for the M35 owners. I did a few searches on it and came up with nothing relevant. I'm wondering if any of you know what the proper adjustment is for the throttle pedal stop bolt that protrudes from the floor just under the top of the pedal? I'm thinking that if mine is too high it could be restricting how much throttle/fuel I can give my engine. I might have to drag out my TMs and see if I can find something on it. I would appreciate any insights you may have. Going to try and get down to Eastern Surplus this week and pick up two NOS front fenders and a J-pipe if all goes well.
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,543
13,912
113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
The TMs are the best place for information. I would love to have a couple of NOS front fenders to salt away, along with some hoods & hard tops.
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
The TMs are the best place for information. I would love to have a couple of NOS front fenders to salt away, along with some hoods & hard tops.
That would be nice. My fenders are disintegrating from rust. There's no sense in my patching them, because new rust holes would soon appear elsewhere. It's the TDG (Truck Destroyer-Granular) they put on the roads here in the Winter. I'm going to put some kind of undercoating on the new ones. I really need to be spending the money on my house. Oh well.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,249
3,335
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
I have a question for the M35 owners. I did a few searches on it and came up with nothing relevant. I'm wondering if any of you know what the proper adjustment is for the throttle pedal stop bolt that protrudes from the floor just under the top of the pedal? I'm thinking that if mine is too high it could be restricting how much throttle/fuel I can give my engine. I might have to drag out my TMs and see if I can find something on it. I would appreciate any insights you may have. Going to try and get down to Eastern Surplus this week and pick up two NOS front fenders and a J-pipe if all goes well.


Info from TM 9-2320-361-24-1 work package 0070 00

1. Remove locknut (15) from threaded stud (16) and remove threaded stud (16) of ball joint ( 18 from lever (17). 2. Loosen nut (19) on accelerator rod (14). NOTE Rod is shortened by turning ball joint clockwise on rod and lengthened by turning ball joint counterclockwise on rod. 3. Shorten or lengthen accelerator rod (14) until threaded stud (16) of ball joint ( 18 will freely slide into hole of lever (17). 4. Install locknut (15) on threaded stud (16) and tighten locknut (15). 5. Tighten nut (19) on accelerator rod (14). 6. Connect battery ground cable (WP 0126 00). 7. Start engine (TM 9-2320-361-10) and check throttle for proper operation. 8. Lower and secure hood (TM 9-2320-361-10). 9. Release parking brake and remove wheel chocks (TM 9-2320-361-10)


Screenshot (48).png


I did not find any reference to the stud/bolt that limits accelerator pedal travel. I would think that, with the linkage properly adjusted, soldier 1 would slowly depress the accelerator until it hits the stud while soldier 2 checks at the IP that it corresponds to max WOT. If not...adjust stud!
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
Info from TM 9-2320-361-24-1 work package 0070 00

1. Remove locknut (15) from threaded stud (16) and remove threaded stud (16) of ball joint ( 18 from lever (17). 2. Loosen nut (19) on accelerator rod (14). NOTE Rod is shortened by turning ball joint clockwise on rod and lengthened by turning ball joint counterclockwise on rod. 3. Shorten or lengthen accelerator rod (14) until threaded stud (16) of ball joint ( 18 will freely slide into hole of lever (17). 4. Install locknut (15) on threaded stud (16) and tighten locknut (15). 5. Tighten nut (19) on accelerator rod (14). 6. Connect battery ground cable (WP 0126 00). 7. Start engine (TM 9-2320-361-10) and check throttle for proper operation. 8. Lower and secure hood (TM 9-2320-361-10). 9. Release parking brake and remove wheel chocks (TM 9-2320-361-10)


View attachment 827714


I did not find any reference to the stud/bolt that limits accelerator pedal travel. I would think that, with the linkage properly adjusted, soldier 1 would slowly depress the accelerator until it hits the stud while soldier 2 checks at the IP that it corresponds to max WOT. If not...adjust stud!
Thank you for the picture and explanation cattlerepairman! I actually did the above task when I installed a new throttle rod and hand throttle cable. I also replaced the pedal and it's floor hinge. It was binding from corrosion. I need a new throttle return spring now. They get weak over time. Maybe I'll revisit the linkage adjustment. It's always possible I didn't get it exactly right. Queen Lola should be coming out soon for the Spring thaw yes?
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,984
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Just take the truck and drive and learn about it. There will be many for sale.
Rust never stopped a WAR.
Double spring it, 40 to 70 year old stuff might need help, anyhow, it is a safety issue.
Do Your self a flavor and Put double spring somehow,then after that, fix everything else.
This is just an example on mine without even the original steering box, but you'll get the idea.
Springs wear out, just like us.
 

Attachments

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
I like Frank's spring idea. It's hard to find a suitable spring at any of the hardware and automotive stores. I think I even tried a Holley carburetor spring once. It didn't have enough tension. I'm going to keep on the hunt. As far as the rust goes I'm just trying to keep my truck decent looking. Plus, in PA if you have rust holes you won't pass inspection.
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,543
13,912
113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Just take the truck and drive and learn about it. There will be many for sale.
Rust never stopped a WAR.
Double spring it, 40 to 70 year old stuff might need help, anyhow, it is a safety issue.
Do Your self a flavor and Put double spring somehow,then after that, fix everything else.
This is just an example on mine without even the original steering box, but you'll get the idea.
Springs wear out, just like us.
Good idea. I had one break several years ago. Not a pleasant experience.
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,543
13,912
113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
I like Frank's spring idea. It's hard to find a suitable spring at any of the hardware and automotive stores. I think I even tried a Holley carburetor spring once. It didn't have enough tension. I'm going to keep on the hunt. As far as the rust goes I'm just trying to keep my truck decent looking. Plus, in PA if you have rust holes you won't pass inspection.
Dipstick, you can pick up the spring in Franks post from one of our vendors, Part Number 7539129 NSN 5360-00-753-9129 Spring Helical. If all else fails you can find them on e-bay.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,984
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
I still remember in the 70's the Bonneville in front of me at the bank window drive thru. The lady did her banking, dropped it in drive and punched it and that Pontiac went wide open. Nice show.
I so glad she didn't put in reverse or neutral!
Being totally exasperated she did the exact right thing and shut it down.

Happened to my Mom in a 56 Plymouth, went wide open. I was about 13, probable 1962/3.
I used shoelace to put Moms in 20mph mode so We could get home. That Pontiac lady called in the tow truck.
I was told that new cars have up to a thousand springs in them, springs break.
I studied as per my posted PDF I got my springs at Ace hardware, they got boxes of different flavors of them.
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,.....



Got my Deuce out of storage this morning.

The old girl fired right up.

Took her for a quick trip to the next town to blow the dust and cobwebs off her.

Gonna see if when I hitch up my M105 to her I can yank the lunette out as its stuck.

Pluss I wanna do a few small jobs and take her a for a nice long run.



Aussie.
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
Last Wednesday I picked up two NOS M35 front fenders in person from Bill Peasley at Eastern Surplus in Philadelphia. It was neat to actually see their facility in real. I've been doing business with them since 2012. I've even had hot dogs and hamburgers with them at several MV shows. Bill is a great guy. I spoke with Steve Lever too. Also a great guy. Can't wait until the weather warms up a bit so I can begin sanding and painting. I also have to cut the driver's side fender a bit to clear the external frame mounted power steering box.
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
Thanks for the like Tracer!

An important note: While there is no Covid vaccine currently available in Pennsylvania, I was able to get my first shot at the Wilkes-Barre PA Veteran's Hospital last week. I was already registered with them, so I walked in without an appointment and they administered the shot mere minutes after my arrival. I hope all Vets are aware that their local VA Hospitals may be giving free Covid shots to Vets. The staff at the VA couldn't have been nicer. To a person, they treat Vets with respect and kindness. They are also very professional. My visit to the VA was entirely positive. So check it out in your area Vets!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks