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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Top fix was a success. I used seal all from autozone and pop rivets every 8" or so just for added measure. I honestly think the seal all would've worked alone, but the rivets helped keep the vinyl in place while the glue set. Without them the clamps kept wanting to push the channel piece around. Little bit of wd40 and the top went back on easy peasy. One person job.

The roommates dad is in town so we took a trip to the lake today. Had a great time, but my transfer case is acting up. I have a pinhole leak in one of my air tanks, and I'm wondering if I'm not maintaining enough constant psi to keep the front axle actuated. Anyone else ever experience this? Might be in for a tear down.
 
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frank8003

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Installed air filter box to compressor line in preparation for a main air inlet stop device.

IMG_7589.jpgIMG_7590.jpgIMG_7591.jpg

Recirculated all the fuel in the tank thru a 3 micron filter.
 
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Another Ahab

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Top fix was a success. I used seal all from autozone and pop rivets every 8" or so just for added measure. I honestly think the seal all would've worked alone, but the rivets helped keep the vinyl in place while the glue set. Without them the clamps kept wanting to push the channel piece around. Little bit of wd40 and the top went back on easy peasy. One person job.
Sometimes drilling holes in fabric materials like canvas goes all screwey on you (binding and unravelling, that kind of thing).

Did you drill the holes for your pop-rivets, and did that go OK?
 

whatadeuce

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WEll today I finished removing the bumper from spare engine #4. And i used that special mixture of 50% transmission fluid mixed with 50% acetone, which made wreching these bolts alot easier. No air or impact tools in this shop!
 

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Sometimes drilling holes in fabric materials like canvas goes all screwey on you (binding and unravelling, that kind of thing).

Did you drill the holes for your pop-rivets, and did that go OK?
Yes I drilled holes for the pop-rivets. The seal all should hold the vinyl together from underneath, while the head of the rivets will keep it from unraveling on the top side. At least that's my theory. I didn't have any issues with the top while drilling through it, made sure to drill the vinyl and plastic channel at the same time.
 
Pulled my air tanks to replace the one closest to the frame. Been having the spare sitting around for a while. I couldn't find the procedure in the TMs. Question... What sealant should I use when reassembling the tank fittings/lines? Loctite, Teflon tape? Thanks
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
WEll today I finished removing the bumper from spare engine #4. And i used that special mixture of 50% transmission fluid mixed with 50% acetone, which made wreching these bolts alot easier. No air or impact tools in this shop!
I never head of that "magic elixir" before. I'm always looking to learn.

Where did you hear about that, and is it a whole lot more effective than something like WD-40?
 

lavarok

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Fellsmere, FL
Pulled my air tanks to replace the one closest to the frame. Been having the spare sitting around for a while. I couldn't find the procedure in the TMs. Question... What sealant should I use when reassembling the tank fittings/lines? Loctite, Teflon tape? Thanks
Use PTFE (teflon) tape.
 
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frank8003

In Memorial
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Just needed to replace the thermostat as suspicion was that it failed or was not a 180F° stat.
Put new hoses and thermostat and found "extra" pieces lodged in the takeout thermostat. It is stamped 180F° but I could never get anything above 165F° anywhere on the engine no mattter what, even with 3 to 4 tons in the back. Anyhow, it is a bypass controller and is not like a car thermostat.
Looks like the solder was stuck in the thermostat, don't even know what the metallic piece of whatever was doing in there either..... Idled 56 minutes and now have 178F° down by the crank. All is good.
pictures for the general are NOT in order.
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