What did you do to your deuce this week?

[tobyS]

The black looks fine (good even), no need to paint that. You're all good!

We used to wrap that with a flat thread like material or leather straps to tighten it up. Is it leather or vinyl? As much as I like leather, it molds with sweat.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Began the install of the Waterloo power steering.
Murphy was asleep for most of it, but then I discovered that the radiator fan shroud was quite loose after trimming. "No problem", I thought. "I just take my welder and tack it to the radiator bracket down there".
Problem was...that was not a radiator bracket. That was part of the lower tank of the radiator. As soon as I touched it with the welder, coolant started spurting out.
Thanks, Murphy.

Now it is draining into a big bucket. Should be empty by tomorrow. Then I get to figure out if I can braze that, or not. So much for a straightforward install.

 

[Another Ahab]

"No problem", I thought. "I just take my welder and tack it to the radiator bracket down there".
Problem was...that was not a radiator bracket. That was part of the lower tank of the radiator.

It was all going so well.

Sorry you hit the snag, cattlerepairman. It happens.

 

[Big Tom]

Cattlerepairman
I would recommend Soldering the Radiator rather than brazing it will keep the heat down so you won’t melt the other solder joints out.

Big Tom

 

[cattlerepairman]

Cattlerepairman
I would recommend Soldering the Radiator rather than brazing it will keep the heat down so you won’t melt the other solder joints out.

Big Tom

Good point. Blue gas bottle it is! I let you know how that turns out, tomorrow.

 

[fasttruck]

Reference post 9514 and alternator bolts: the little dears have to be checked for tightness periodically as they have the ability to vibrate loose when driving. One falls out, the other breaks, alternator falls off which kills the water pump and there you are.

 

[m561gamagoat]

Im sure they do.The rearmost bolt was easier to get to than the front I will tighten up this weekend with a stubby 5/8 and a long handle micro-ratchet!

 

[Another Ahab]

Reference post 9514 and alternator bolts: the little dears have to be checked for tightness periodically as they have the ability to vibrate loose when driving. One falls out, the other breaks, alternator falls off which kills the water pump and there you are.

The need to inspect now-and-then is understood.

But does anybody know if the problem could be solved/ minimized with a drop of Loc-Tite (blue)?

 

[emeralcove]

In some cases it isn't too crazy to buy some cross drilled head bolts and safety wire as done on aircraft to keep thing from "flying" apart.

 

[Another Ahab]

In some cases it isn't too crazy to buy some cross drilled head bolts and safety wire as done on aircraft to keep thing from "flying" apart.

There must be a learning curve to getting that wiring done right:

- Are there any good YouTubes about how you "do" that wiring?

 

[cattlerepairman]

Drained coolant, took radiator out, turned upside down so I could solder the stupid hole I made. About the size of a 9mm bullet hole. Put back, refilled. No leak when static. When engine warm, a pin head drop of coolant just hangs there underneath the repair. No "leak" or constant drip. Yup, gallons and gallons of coolant in the circuit so it won't matter. My obsessiveness won't allow me to leave it alone. But I am willing to try.

Today I had to walk away from the power steering install. The 1 1/2 and 3/4 in frame hole drilling is getting to me. Yesterday I destroyed hole saw #1 without much to show for it (yes, drilling sloooowly, using WD40). Went to the store early (as in 7am; an hour round trip) to buy two Milwaukee ice hardened hole saws #2 and #3. They lasted slightly longer, but not until the hole was cut.

Back to the store for two DIABLO hole saws and cutting fluid. Welcome saws #4 and #5. Yes, they worked very well. Both are alive and well.
With the hole through the frame and ALMOST through the backing plate, my Hitachi drill started smoking, stinking and quit. I thought it would catch on fire.
WTF !@#$% !!!!!

It is the only 1/2 in drill I have...had.... so I had to redneck an adapter for the electric impact gun for lug nuts. When you do not press hard it does not engage the impact hammer. That allowed me to finish the 1 1/2 in hole. I gingerly tried the 3/4 in hole but the hole saw stripped its teeth in about 30 seconds. RIP hole saw #4.

That's when I walked away for today!

 

[Nomad1]

Sometimes walking away can make all the difference in the world. I don't like drilling holes in frames something about putting holes in in that nice solid steel that makes me nervous. When you can do it with a drill press and cutting oil at low speed it takes a lot of stress out of it but that's not how it ussaully works out.

Drained coolant, took radiator out, turned upside down so I could solder the stupid hole I made. About the size of a 9mm bullet hole. Put back, refilled. No leak when static. When engine warm, a pin head drop of coolant just hangs there underneath the repair. No "leak" or constant drip. Yup, gallons and gallons of coolant in the circuit so it won't matter. My obsessiveness won't allow me to leave it alone. But I am willing to try.

Today I had to walk away from the power steering install. The 1 1/2 and 3/4 in frame hole drilling is getting to me. Yesterday I destroyed hole saw #1 without much to show for it (yes, drilling sloooowly, using WD40). Went to the store early (as in 7am; an hour round trip) to buy two Milwaukee ice hardened hole saws #2 and #3. They lasted slightly longer, but not until the hole was cut.

Back to the store for two DIABLO hole saws and cutting fluid. Welcome saws #4 and #5. Yes, they worked very well. Both are alive and well.
With the hole through the frame and ALMOST through the backing plate, my Hitachi drill started smoking, stinking and quit. I thought it would catch on fire.
WTF !@#$% !!!!!

It is the only 1/2 in drill I have...had.... so I had to redneck an adapter for the electric impact gun for lug nuts. When you do not press hard it does not engage the impact hammer. That allowed me to finish the 1 1/2 in hole. I gingerly tried the 3/4 in hole but the hole saw stripped its teeth in about 30 seconds. RIP hole saw #4.

That's when I walked away for today!

 

[benhasajeep]

Drained coolant, took radiator out, turned upside down so I could solder the stupid hole I made. About the size of a 9mm bullet hole. Put back, refilled. No leak when static. When engine warm, a pin head drop of coolant just hangs there underneath the repair. No "leak" or constant drip. Yup, gallons and gallons of coolant in the circuit so it won't matter. My obsessiveness won't allow me to leave it alone. But I am willing to try.

Today I had to walk away from the power steering install. The 1 1/2 and 3/4 in frame hole drilling is getting to me. Yesterday I destroyed hole saw #1 without much to show for it (yes, drilling sloooowly, using WD40). Went to the store early (as in 7am; an hour round trip) to buy two Milwaukee ice hardened hole saws #2 and #3. They lasted slightly longer, but not until the hole was cut.

Back to the store for two DIABLO hole saws and cutting fluid. Welcome saws #4 and #5. Yes, they worked very well. Both are alive and well.
With the hole through the frame and ALMOST through the backing plate, my Hitachi drill started smoking, stinking and quit. I thought it would catch on fire.
WTF !@#$% !!!!!

It is the only 1/2 in drill I have...had.... so I had to redneck an adapter for the electric impact gun for lug nuts. When you do not press hard it does not engage the impact hammer. That allowed me to finish the 1 1/2 in hole. I gingerly tried the 3/4 in hole but the hole saw stripped its teeth in about 30 seconds. RIP hole saw #4.

That's when I walked away for today!

WD-40 is a bad cutting fluid! WD-40 is actually made to displace water. When cutting thick / large holes it's important to use cutting fluid. Cutting fluid is used to dissipate heat from the cutting tool and the item being cut. Your bits get dull from heat build up. So it's important to use a good cutting fluid to dissipate heat. The cutting tool will last much longer using a decent cutting fluid. And it takes quite a bit. Saws with pumps range from 1 to 3 gallons per minute flow rates. Now these system recycle the fluid. But the blades last quite a while when using the cutting fluid coolant.

Pressure is as important as speed. Too much pressure making the teeth take big cuts causes excess heat as much as too high a speed. Smoking a drill would indicate to me you were probably pushing too hard. Unless the drill was already on the way out. If you can't use a large amount of cutting fluid. Treat it like you would grind something. Have a coolant fluid in a container. And keep removing the bit too cool it by dipping in the cutting fluid. A cutting tool should never be so hot, you burn yourself touching it.

It's all about keeping the heat down!

By the way, you can sharpen hole saws just like any saw with a file, or diamond card!!! It's really not that hard. Unless you really cooked the teeth and lost the temper throughout the whole tooth. You can touch them up with a fine file, or diamond card.

 

[davidb56]

1 1/2 inch drill BIT is 33$ at HD. Drill slow with plenty of oil and they last a long time. Use a proper size pilot hole.

 

[Another Ahab]

A Mag-Drill is a right way to tackle projects like that, but who has a Mag-Drill right?

Sometimes you can find a machine shop with one that will give you your "hole" for a fair price.

 

[benhasajeep]

A Mag-Drill is a right way to tackle projects like that, but who has a Mag-Drill right?

Sometimes you can find a machine shop with one that will give you your "hole" for a fair price.

I have a "chinese" one that works good so far. But it's still not cheap. I think I paid about $500 for mine. There are some going for 1/2 of that now on Amazon.

 

[cattlerepairman]

benhasajeep, I followed your advice and used a 3/4 in drill bit.

I have also resigned myself to the fact that the universe does not want me to do this power steering conversion.

When I started drilling (brand new 3/4 in drill bit, new Ridgid drill, cutting fluid, sloooow speed) I noticed that the brand new drill bit did not want to bite. It listlessly ground into the metal a little but did not make progress, WTF??

I felt the edges and they were not sharp...dull, actually. Used a dremel and a flat grinding stone and eyeballed the 135 degree cutting edges as best as I could. WOW! That drill meant business after that. It ate through the frame in a few minutes. But - seriously! A brand new drill off the shelf is too dull to even work? If it wasn't an hour long round trip....

With the hole drilled I was ready to forge ahead, but...my Waterloo kit is missing the steering box bracket. Tom said, with 200+ kits shipped, he never forgot to pack a part. Well, he did in mine! Now I have to wait for the bracket to arrive.

I did briefly feel like going behind the shed to yell, but that moment passed. On the other hand, the herculiner I sprayed in my cargo bed looks good! Little things, little things....

 

[Nomad1]

Well maybe the unveriverse just is running behind a little. Today my led truck-lite headlight came in new bucket and all p/n 07371 from ebay only it was a wagner headlight in the bucket that had the truck-lite part sticker on it

benhasajeep, I followed your advice and used a 3/4 in drill bit.

I have also resigned myself to the fact that the universe does not want me to do this power steering conversion.

When I started drilling (brand new 3/4 in drill bit, new Ridgid drill, cutting fluid, sloooow speed) I noticed that the brand new drill bit did not want to bite. It listlessly ground into the metal a little but did not make progress, WTF??

I felt the edges and they were not sharp...dull, actually. Used a dremel and a flat grinding stone and eyeballed the 135 degree cutting edges as best as I could. WOW! That drill meant business after that. It ate through the frame in a few minutes. But - seriously! A brand new drill off the shelf is too dull to even work? If it wasn't an hour long round trip....

With the hole drilled I was ready to forge ahead, but...my Waterloo kit is missing the steering box bracket. Tom said, with 200+ kits shipped, he never forgot to pack a part. Well, he did in mine! Now I have to wait for the bracket to arrive.

I did briefly feel like going behind the shed to yell, but that moment passed. On the other hand, the herculiner I sprayed in my cargo bed looks good! Little things, little things....

 

[Elijah95]

Began replacing the rotten wood, GA Rally prep in progress daily

 

[benhasajeep]

benhasajeep, I followed your advice and used a 3/4 in drill bit.

I have also resigned myself to the fact that the universe does not want me to do this power steering conversion.

When I started drilling (brand new 3/4 in drill bit, new Ridgid drill, cutting fluid, sloooow speed) I noticed that the brand new drill bit did not want to bite. It listlessly ground into the metal a little but did not make progress, WTF??

I felt the edges and they were not sharp...dull, actually. Used a dremel and a flat grinding stone and eyeballed the 135 degree cutting edges as best as I could. WOW! That drill meant business after that. It ate through the frame in a few minutes. But - seriously! A brand new drill off the shelf is too dull to even work? If it wasn't an hour long round trip....

With the hole drilled I was ready to forge ahead, but...my Waterloo kit is missing the steering box bracket. Tom said, with 200+ kits shipped, he never forgot to pack a part. Well, he did in mine! Now I have to wait for the bracket to arrive.

I did briefly feel like going behind the shed to yell, but that moment passed. On the other hand, the herculiner I sprayed in my cargo bed looks good! Little things, little things....

Well it was good that you decided to sharpen the bit yourself. As another new one from the same company might have been the same. Manufacturing has been going down hill for a while now. Pretty bad when you have to sharpen a new bit.