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I agree, but an electric one would be about the same.
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What did you do to your deuce this week?
- Thread starter Seth_O
- Start date
I agree, but an electric one would be about the same.
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It needs to be lubricated with silicone grease, after being cleaned out.
I know what you mean about feeling pressure on both sides of the stuck wiper motor. There is a valve plate on the end of the motors which has a bunch of small orifices that can possibly get plugged. What I think is, that when one motor gets locked, it's because both motors are in a position where they are working against each other as far as air pressure. I push a tight fitting neoprene vacuum cap with a very slight slit or hole in it over one of the motors exhaust tube outlet (usually the slower of the two or the one that gets stuck most). Restricting the exhaust on one seems to balance them both out for me. It's a cheap fix, but I've been doing it for years. Once this year the cap fell off (old age I guess) and I was right back to having wiper motor problems again. I performed my vacuum cap magic trick again and all was well. Just a thought. You might try it out.
Dieselfitter
Active member
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- Cody, WY
Started a new truck project
m35a2 bad motor ,really rough cab and other unknowns. .
super singles will be the rubber i run , goodyear 395’s work well for me ,
bought rims and tires and started mounting them up .
dony know if anyone has covered these split rim tire install ,i have found a rather simple and easy way to get it done ,thought i d cover it here .
spliting the rims and cleaning rust and dirt off everything .
set rim on 8x8” piece of wood 14” high wood right in the center so bottom of rim is suspended off floor. Install oring ,applied with a tire mounting lube that changes this game to an easy win everytime . 16 ozs of banance beads thrown in tire first. Set top split rim over the studs and tighten the 10 nuts . Then apply ascot tire lube , its a fiberous slippery thick putty goo Stuff .
you just fill the gap between the rim and tire in the bead area .
remove valve from stem and add air , the bead seats immediately and the tire lube just oozzes out from the bead . Scoop it off the trie with your hand , dump it back in pail for reuse .
run pressure up to your number mine is 40 psi , let the tire sit for 5 mins and wipe up the rest of lube that has worked its way out of bead area .
this stuff works on small trailer tires that are a real pain to get changed .
m35a2 bad motor ,really rough cab and other unknowns. .
super singles will be the rubber i run , goodyear 395’s work well for me ,
bought rims and tires and started mounting them up .
dony know if anyone has covered these split rim tire install ,i have found a rather simple and easy way to get it done ,thought i d cover it here .
spliting the rims and cleaning rust and dirt off everything .
set rim on 8x8” piece of wood 14” high wood right in the center so bottom of rim is suspended off floor. Install oring ,applied with a tire mounting lube that changes this game to an easy win everytime . 16 ozs of banance beads thrown in tire first. Set top split rim over the studs and tighten the 10 nuts . Then apply ascot tire lube , its a fiberous slippery thick putty goo Stuff .
you just fill the gap between the rim and tire in the bead area .
remove valve from stem and add air , the bead seats immediately and the tire lube just oozzes out from the bead . Scoop it off the trie with your hand , dump it back in pail for reuse .
run pressure up to your number mine is 40 psi , let the tire sit for 5 mins and wipe up the rest of lube that has worked its way out of bead area .
this stuff works on small trailer tires that are a real pain to get changed .
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- N. Central Idaho
Installed back up lights and horn. Manually controlled
Good job on your post and pictures Dieselfitter!!!
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- N. Central Idaho
Deja 'vu all over again. This time for adjusting the caster.
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Changed oil and filters with a quart of Opti-LUBE ZDDP oil fortifier. Trying out NAPA 15w-40 oil I picked up on sale a while back.
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Since we finally had some decent, dry weather, I was able to finish the swap over to 11.00R20 G177's on my old girl earlier today.
I love the "original" look and proportions of 9x20 NDT's on Deuces, but they are scary on wet pavement and some of them on my truck were getting long in the tooth and had way too much checking for my liking. New 373's (if you can find 'em) are not cheap...
I found a spectacular deal on some brand-new, never-used G177's so I picked up 12 of them (11 for the Deuce and one to replace the ancient spare on my 5-ton since the price was right). 7 of them were mounted on 5-ton rims and 5 were never mounted but since I had 3 spare Deuce rims to work ahead with it was not a bad project. I honestly don't mind tubed tire work...you just need to have the right tools, knowledge and proper attitude to get it done.
I still need to notch the splash guard to get the spare to fit on the truck and also to clean up the tires/rims and paint the rims semi-gloss OD to match, but they are on and she's looking good. I was able to get her to ride and handle safely just by playing with the F/R tire pressures a bit. No need to flip spring perches in my case to get a solid, correct ride.
Kind of nice to have everyone running the same tires now...
I love the "original" look and proportions of 9x20 NDT's on Deuces, but they are scary on wet pavement and some of them on my truck were getting long in the tooth and had way too much checking for my liking. New 373's (if you can find 'em) are not cheap...
I found a spectacular deal on some brand-new, never-used G177's so I picked up 12 of them (11 for the Deuce and one to replace the ancient spare on my 5-ton since the price was right). 7 of them were mounted on 5-ton rims and 5 were never mounted but since I had 3 spare Deuce rims to work ahead with it was not a bad project. I honestly don't mind tubed tire work...you just need to have the right tools, knowledge and proper attitude to get it done.
I still need to notch the splash guard to get the spare to fit on the truck and also to clean up the tires/rims and paint the rims semi-gloss OD to match, but they are on and she's looking good. I was able to get her to ride and handle safely just by playing with the F/R tire pressures a bit. No need to flip spring perches in my case to get a solid, correct ride.
Kind of nice to have everyone running the same tires now...
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I learned that the hard way when I switched over to the new rims and tires. Let's just say, when you have the choice between a small pail of tire soap/goop and an insanely big pail of tire soap/goop, buy the insanely big one!
Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk
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- W.WA
I don't post here much anymore because almost everything I'm doing is a major modification, but this time...
So, I plan on building a teeny, tiny home in the back, but thought it would be good to put some spray on (roll-on) bed liner just as a sealer in the event when (not if) water gets under the structure. I won't be removing the bed sides.
I bought 2 gallons of Al's Liner. 1 gallon is enough for 2 coats of a pick up bed, so I hoped 2 gallons would be enough for 1 coat of my bed. Truck is in the shop right now, so I gave the stuff to them to use. I didn't need the back gate done or really the sides, but it doesn't really matter that it was. My guy is suggesting another coat, and I'm gonna take a look but the whole point is just to seal it from possible rust - the bed will be completely covered. If I do do another coat, I'll go ahead and tint it olive green, just because.
I bought this stuff in 2020, lately prices are about 85% higher than then. There is a company called Custom Coat that makes tint and sells the tint with spray liner for much less than competitors. If I go with a second coat, I'll go with this company.
Edit: So, I took a look at it, and I think the coverage is sufficient for what I needed it for, and I'm not gonna go with the 2nd coat. For what it's worth, they had difficulties with this stuff (Al's Liner), though that may have been because I bought it 2 years ago. Also, if you do use this stuff, work with small batches, maybe no more than 2 quarts at a time because it dries VERY fast. Some of it dried in the container they were using before they got to it.
So, I plan on building a teeny, tiny home in the back, but thought it would be good to put some spray on (roll-on) bed liner just as a sealer in the event when (not if) water gets under the structure. I won't be removing the bed sides.
I bought 2 gallons of Al's Liner. 1 gallon is enough for 2 coats of a pick up bed, so I hoped 2 gallons would be enough for 1 coat of my bed. Truck is in the shop right now, so I gave the stuff to them to use. I didn't need the back gate done or really the sides, but it doesn't really matter that it was. My guy is suggesting another coat, and I'm gonna take a look but the whole point is just to seal it from possible rust - the bed will be completely covered. If I do do another coat, I'll go ahead and tint it olive green, just because.
I bought this stuff in 2020, lately prices are about 85% higher than then. There is a company called Custom Coat that makes tint and sells the tint with spray liner for much less than competitors. If I go with a second coat, I'll go with this company.
Edit: So, I took a look at it, and I think the coverage is sufficient for what I needed it for, and I'm not gonna go with the 2nd coat. For what it's worth, they had difficulties with this stuff (Al's Liner), though that may have been because I bought it 2 years ago. Also, if you do use this stuff, work with small batches, maybe no more than 2 quarts at a time because it dries VERY fast. Some of it dried in the container they were using before they got to it.
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So montaillou ,
I have to ask: Did you use bed liner because it will help hold stuff still - or just because it is "tougher" than a good coat of paint? You mentioned protecting / sealing from possible rust. Seems like either would have worked. Just curious about your logic?
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If it's a permanent modification, I'd look at van bodies.
Also, XPS foam is great for insulation, inexpensive, and sturdy enough to use as doors/walls in the proper thickness, for semi-permanent applications.
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Let's go with the tougher part - though I didn't even bother looking at paints. Maybe there is a paint that would be better. I just figured that bed liner is generally considered pretty tough stuff and can take dings w/out scratching. It's also possible that one way or another I may remove the structure in the back and thought bed liner would just be good going forward for an all around protector. I'm still a little time away from construction and this way I don't have to worry about the bed or even be too concerned during construction about scratching the coat away.
ToddJK
Well-known member
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That's understandable. I got some Herculiner for my steps and for the fenders so it's not as slick when there is snow on the bottom of my boots or when wet. I tried Plastidip and it seems really slick when wet and I'm not sure why as usually it has a really tacky rubber feeling but maybe there was something off in the chemicals. Either way, the bed of your truck looks nice.
ToddJK
Well-known member
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Trucks look happy with good rubber on them!
Hi guys! You can blame me for the cold weather. I took my winter front off and unplugged Brutus' block heater last week. I haven't been working on Brutus, because I'm starting to fabricate a steel flatbed for my 1952 Dodge truck "Major Motion". Next, I have to run new fuel and brake lines so I can get him out on the driveway and work in the sun. Whenever it appears that is. I'll start on Brutus' new fenders after I make a few spring nursery and lawncare supply runs with him. Glad to see everyone is well and keeping busy.
Two very fine looking trucks you have there!
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@Dipstick
Thank you! I really appreciate it! It's been a lot of work and they've both come a long way despite the challenges of working on them in the open, on gravel and being at the mercy of Mother Nature.
Things get very stagnant during the winter for the girls other than to perform necessary maintenance and get in some small upgrades and other minor non-critical fixes as I don't have indoor shop accommodations for them and winters at the farm can be brutal. However, after the fields are harvested this fall, the plan is to start on the groundwork for something to permanently remedy that situation for them (and for me!)
Thank you! I really appreciate it! It's been a lot of work and they've both come a long way despite the challenges of working on them in the open, on gravel and being at the mercy of Mother Nature.
Things get very stagnant during the winter for the girls other than to perform necessary maintenance and get in some small upgrades and other minor non-critical fixes as I don't have indoor shop accommodations for them and winters at the farm can be brutal. However, after the fields are harvested this fall, the plan is to start on the groundwork for something to permanently remedy that situation for them (and for me!)