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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

ARYankee

Well-known member
1,983
33
48
Location
Benton, AR
I went from 4 batteries to 2 batteries temporarily. The 4 that were in there went dead from sitting while I was gone working in Oregon. I went out and bought 2 new ones from TSC. I also took it to a car show yesterday in Hot Springs @ the airport that benefited a local school band.
 

FUBIJAR

New member
41
0
0
Location
NJ
Removed my alternator and took it to repair shop. Added wires for the Pulsetech Quad charger I bought to the batteries, greased all grease points, washed frame and canvas cover (used Krud Cutter worked great on built up grease and dirt also removed the stains from the cargo cover it looks brand new). Next weekend replacing all filters and fluids. Also touching up paint and adding new USN stencils.
 

cx65083

Member
187
4
18
Location
wisconsin rapids, wi
Pulled the air tank drain line out and went to the hardware store to work out a replacement. I was getting late and decided to just get a cap to plug it up for now. Picked up a 3/8" compression cap and went home. Turns out 3/8" didnt fit perfectly and it still leaks down, but a LOT slower now. The brakes work SO much better when you have air pressure helping!
A quick run down to the end of the street confirm that the brakes work GOOD now. On the way back to the house I drove into a snow filled ditch to see if the sprag was shifting again.
Went about a truck length before bogging down with NO help from the front end. Darn it. After a few minutes of backing and giving her another go I started hearing the sprag clunk when shift into reverse. I also felt the front end pushing the truck back. I backed out and pulled into my yard.
I shifted back and forth between 1st and Rev. Heard the air and the clunk going into Reverse...but still not in 1st.

Time to look at the poppets, OR time to go to the TM's. I wanna have a clue of what I'm getting into 1st.
 

greenmonster

Member
119
4
18
Location
cody, wyoming
I posted this on the road trips section because it was after I recovered the bed but I figured I would post it here just to show it off a little more.:)
 

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fuzzytoaster

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,290
3,104
113
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Got new lights, HUMVEE seats, rifle mount, cup holders, and 12v converter installed to go recover a flatbed. Fun trip! (video was posted on SS)
 

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zebedee

conceptualizer at large
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,628
724
113
Location
Central NY
Hey Fuzz' - what is up with your transfer case lever - is it supposed to lay flat one the floor? - Kind of hard to 'grab' when needed.
Maybe I need to get on and finish my X-fer lever extensions to save a few knuckles!

Maybe I'll trade you one for some routing info/pics etc., on the trolley valve and associated hookup.....
 

coop

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
36
4
8
Location
Indiana
This winter I purchased my M818. The first thing I did was minor maintanace work then adjusted the clutch and all the brake shoes. I then worked on getting the front axle to engage. I followed all of the easier suggestions listed on here first to no avail ( just my luck) and wound up going down the list and replaced the Transmission Poppet Valve, the Transfer Case Air Shift Valve and finaly replaced the worn Sprague Clutch in the transfer case. The front axle now engages! I then instaled a pto,winch and controls. I'm now finishing up the paint job on the truck and getting ready to stencil it. I painted Forest Green over that nasty desert sand. I had to use a high pressure washer to remove most of the sand paint they had all over the tires. I just applied for my historical vehicle registration and next will apply for my Military vehicle registration. Gettin Close.

Image283.jpgImage286.jpgImage288.jpgImage093.jpgM818 Paint 012.jpgM818 Paint 013.jpg1971 AM General M818 5 Ton 6x6 TT.jpgM818paint064.jpg1963 M146 6 Ton Shop Semi Trailer.jpg
 

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fuzzytoaster

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,290
3,104
113
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Hey Fuzz' - what is up with your transfer case lever - is it supposed to lay flat one the floor? - Kind of hard to 'grab' when needed.
Maybe I need to get on and finish my X-fer lever extensions to save a few knuckles!

Maybe I'll trade you one for some routing info/pics etc., on the trolley valve and associated hookup.....
Most M35A2s I've had go all the way to the floor, they dont have much play in them either even in HI range. Dunno.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,860
693
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Self cancelling blinker from HMMWV I added screws with spacers to the back ring of the steering wheel the holes were already there I just hand tapped them to the right size.
1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,605
2,898
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
Suprfknman,

So if I follow correctly, The screws on the stg wheel engage/cancel the turn signal unit and shut it off? Wow, that is real cool. What is the nsn and where did you get it? Does the "kit" come with the spacers and screws? Pm if needed.

thanks for sharing a great idea!
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,860
693
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Hi yes it works just like a regular car. You put the blinker on and as the steering wheel comes back around after turning it cancels the blinker. It is a hmmwv blinker the electrical connection is the same as the 5ton unplug one and plug the other in. They blinker controls are pretty available on the net. I opened mine and lubed it so it operates smooth and easy there are 4 screws on the bottom just make a note of the way it came apart so you put it back together the same way. Mine was new if yours is used and broken in you may be all set it just felt a lite tight to me. You will need 2 hose camps nothing special but take the new blinker with you so you can ensure they will fit through the holes. Mine had a metal piece on each side with plugs that pop out with a screwdriver and the metal pieces just fall out. If you look at the back go the steering wheel there are already 3 holes I set the tires straight and used the 2 that were just above and below the control. It does stick out maybe 3/4 inch more than the original since the added mechanism I angled mine up a bit I like it better there. Back to the 3 holes I went to the local big box hardware store and got 1 inch 6-32 stainless machine screws and 1/2 plastic spacers. I hand tapped the holes with a nice sharp tap don't just try to put the screws in you will probably crack the side of the hole. Screw the 2 screws with spacers in, adjust height for proper contact and you are done. If the screws do loosen up on me I will put a little epoxy on the thread and screw them back in but I have not had to do it yet then again I really haven't gone very far since doing it so we shall see
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,860
693
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
And I disconnected the parking brake beeper it gives a ground when the park brake is off I cut and grounded the wire going to the alarm module so it will still beep for low air and I extended the wire from the brake and I will make a better flashing light somewhere on the dash.
 

MyothersanM1

19K M1 Armor Crewman
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,957
418
68
Location
Culver City, CA
-Doing a minor repaint (touch-up) to even out the color
-And finished relocating my water can holder on right rear mud guard (I had to drop it down a few inches to clear the marker light brackets).
 
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