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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

Rmtaunton

Well-known member
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Location
Smyrna, ga
Well that's a given !! Hahaa

But back on topic , ,,,,

Wait for it ,,,,,,


DRIVE IT !!


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74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
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Location
Livonia, MI
That is so nice, dump option would be nice!

so I see a lot more than 5 tons in the back of the truck. I read somewhere that 5 tons was for off road on the old trucks, but what about the m939s? I have a 931a1 with a 11' dropside on it. I want to get a water tank for the fire season ( just for around my house.) and was thinking 2,000 gal tank would be nice, but that is way over 5 tons. I think 1200 gals is about 5 tons.

I know these trucks are heavily built, but should I stick to 5 tons max? What issues should I anticipate?
Put up a swimming pool.
 

Buffalobwana

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Frisco Texas
I did another odd project on the 5 ton yesterday.

It has taken 10 kids to prom, in Idaho, shortly after I bought it, now, it’s picking up two newlyweds after the reception instead of the same old boring limo pickup, a 5-ton will be picking them up!

I bought 4 pairs of these MRAP “shockride” seats on GL a month or two ago, boy are they heavy duty. Since they are meant to mount to the wall of an MRAP, I had to make a stand, you can’t see it that well, but it’s just 3 pc of 11ga 2x2 with a 24” piece of 1” sch 40 kicker to keep it upright.

I’ll weld or screw it to the floor and cut it off and weld/grind/paint the floor afterward. It will be at the rear of the bed, facing outward so everyone can see.

I’ll install warm white lights across the bows, I ordered 4 sets, because we really can get by with 2 or 1 even, and they are only $9 and made in China. And I have to get this right ... no mistakes. You know how much trouble I would be in if I didn’t get the lights right? I don’t want that kind of trouble!!! “**** hath no fury ... “ Actually, she’s so cool, I could duct tape two flashlights inside WalMart plastic bags to the bows and she would be ok with it. (That’s backup plan #3)

check out these seats! Heavy duty! They come with Gerber belt cutters and glass breakers in a scabbard right on the belt. It’s a 4 point harness. The “circle part” on the seat winds up right below your neck. You twist the handle inside the circle and the seat folds forward, or, you can lift the bottom up, and there is a buckle to hold it up.

149159FD-64D8-41DE-8A1E-B2CAE0DE9343.jpg

These seats would make good replacements for a 939 cab bench seat, I may put a set in my 931A2 and replace the one time shock with a real shock, see if I can make a more comfortable ride. I’m really impressed with them. I got 8 seats in the auction, so I am scheming on where to put the additional ones.


Yes, I am thinking of making a tilting office chair version.
 

8madjack

Active member
416
78
28
Location
Gold country Ca.
winch kit in classifieds is gone already. missed out on a lot of cool stuff there. I'd like a set of troop seats and bows/tarp also, but they are always far away and usually not cheap. I'm thinking about making some.

one thing that has me on the fence is how far the bumper sticks out and the weight of that hyd winch. Are they problematic or pretty bomb proof?
 
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Coffey1

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Gray Court SC
Bomb proof but really really kill your angle of attack. Go into a big hole bummer sits down on other side and your stuck.
 

8madjack

Active member
416
78
28
Location
Gold country Ca.
Bomb proof but really really kill your angle of attack. Go into a big hole bummer sits down on other side and your stuck.
Thanks, yea I can see that. I mainly was going to use it logging on my property. I like the clean look up front without it best, but it would be so usefull
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Took my truck for a small load (5 tons) of limestone for the driveway into a property I have. Stopped on the way at Pilot to get fuel before it hits $4/gal. and my air pressure was holding at 90 psi. The secondary held at 90 but the primary dropped to 80 when I hit the brakes to ease out on SR149. That got me nervous but when I accelerated the pressure went on up to 120 on both gauges. Then I stopped to drop off recyclables (still inroute to quarry) and it happened again. Upon acceleration it all returned to normal pressure again. Then at the quarry it dropped again but to 60 psi while headed out. With 1/8 mile very steep downslope coming out I was getting very nervous and was looking at that emergency spring brake override thinking how great overkill is! I just didn't let off the brake pedal completely so as to not loose more air by hitting the pedal again. I then stopped on the gravel county road, after the slope, to kick off the loose gravel by the tailgate and listen for air leaks. There was an audible hiss by the upgraded PURest air dryer. Crawled under to find it was the purge valve. I blocked it off with my hand to make sure that was the only source of the hiss and it was. I tried driving it at higher RPMs in lower gear and it climbed to 120 again. Eased it 15 miles home only touching the brakes three times (sessions) and got back home with 60 psi and the alarm and warning light came on as I braked to stop at the truck's normal parking spot. It didn't build pressure again since where it did after the dirt road where I cleaned the tailgate. I used what daylight was left to take the purge cover off and fiddle with that valve. Restarted (drained after shutting off when I parked) and it shot to normal pressure.

Sorry for the babble but just wanted to make the scenerio clear and maybe this will help someone help answer my question and maybe help others with a similar issue in the future.

My question is, what is the 3/8" headed bolt in the middle of the purge valve? I tried taking it apart with that bolt but it just spun. How do I disassemble the purge valve to clean it or replace it? Also, will the truck be alright with that weight in it for two days? I have other work to do tomorrow so if it is harmful to the truck (that I usually baby) I will get up at 5 am to go unload it. I only need to brake once or twice max to the place where I need to unload it.
 
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Rmtaunton

Well-known member
1,510
31
48
Location
Smyrna, ga
You need to take it apart it's easy and yes your truck will be fine with the weight she was built for twice that . Depending on the truck looks like you have a few

Assuming the 929
 
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Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
119
63
Location
Gray, GA
Took my truck for a small load (5 tons) of limestone for the driveway into a property I have. Stopped on the way at Pilot to get fuel before it hits $4/gal. and my air pressure was holding at 90 psi. The secondary held at 90 but the primary dropped to 80 when I hit the brakes to ease out on SR149. That got me nervous but when I accelerated the pressure went on up to 120 on both gauges. Then I stopped to drop off recyclables (still inroute to quarry) and it happened again. Upon acceleration it all returned to normal pressure again. Then at the quarry it dropped again but to 60 psi while headed out. With 1/8 mile very steep downslope coming out I was getting very nervous and was looking at that emergency spring brake override thinking how great overkill is! I just didn't let off the brake pedal completely so as to not loose more air by hitting the pedal again. I then stopped on the gravel county road, after the slope, to kick off the loose gravel by the tailgate and listen for air leaks. There was an audible hiss by the upgraded PURest air dryer. Crawled under to find it was the purge valve. I blocked it off with my hand to make sure that was the only source of the hiss and it was. I tried driving it at higher RPMs in lower gear and it climbed to 120 again. Eased it 15 miles home only touching the brakes three times (sessions) and got back home with 60 psi and the alarm and warning light came on as I braked to stop at the truck's normal parking spot. It didn't build pressure again since where it did after the dirt road where I cleaned the tailgate. I used what daylight was left to take the purge cover off and fiddle with that valve. Restarted (drained after shutting off when I parked) and it shot to normal pressure.

Sorry for the babble but just wanted to make the scenerio clear and maybe this will help someone help answer my question and maybe help others with a similar issue in the future.

My question is, what is the 3/8" headed bolt in the middle of the purge valve? I tried taking it apart with that bolt but it just spun. How do I disassemble the purge valve to clean it or replace it? Also, will the truck be alright with that weight in it for two days? I have other work to do tomorrow so if it is harmful to the truck (that I usually baby) I will get up at 5 am to go unload it. I only need to brake once or twice max to the place where I need to unload it.
You remove the 3 screws holding the plastic dusk cover to the dryer. There is a snap ring that holds the valve in place. Once you have it out you have access to both ends and the bolt you speak of can be removed.

I did a post with instructions and pictures but I can't find it now.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
You remove the 3 screws holding the plastic dusk cover to the dryer. There is a snap ring that holds the valve in place. Once you have it out you have access to both ends and the bolt you speak of can be removed.

I did a post with instructions and pictures but I can't find it now.
Ok. Thanks Swamp. I did take the cover off but will do so again with my readers on and look closer for that snap ring. So the whole round black thing drops out and then I should be able to see how it seals when closed? I just picture dirt and rust in there since this truck sat a few years as the unloader valve was really cruddy when I first got the truck.
 

Rmtaunton

Well-known member
1,510
31
48
Location
Smyrna, ga
It's cheaper to buy a new one than replace filter ,,that's my two cents but people only give me a penny for my thoughts


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