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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

rbr0203

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Nope. Saw 'frame extension' and thought you meant truck.

and 30' truck+tongue+40' connex? Not a good idea. you'd exceed the 75' maximum allowed on interstates,
Ummm you know this is why I joined this site, there are things that i do not think of. I did my research and knew that trailer length in Wisconsin could be up to 48 feet and a RV can be up to 45 feet. However, i assumed that they could be up to the combined footage and didnt know there was a limit of 70 feet. Ill have to redo what i was thinking in order to make it work.
 

TechnoWeenie

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Ummm you know this is why I joined this site, there are things that i do not think of. I did my research and knew that trailer length in Wisconsin could be up to 48 feet and a RV can be up to 45 feet. However, i assumed that they could be up to the combined footage and didnt know there was a limit of 70 feet. Ill have to redo what i was thinking in order to make it work.
States have their own height/Width/Length/Weight restrictions too, so keep that in mind.
 

Mos68x

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Seligman,AZ
Nope. Saw 'frame extension' and thought you meant truck.

and 30' truck+tongue+40' connex? Not a good idea. you'd exceed the 75' maximum allowed on interstates,
There are are no length limits, but most trailers are designed for either single use or multi trailer use and have their lengths adjusted by the manufacturers. https://ops.fhwa.dot.gov/freight/publications/size_regs_final_rpt/

A single 40’ trailer is legal, but if you were to do multi trailers then no it wouldn’t be. Multi trailers are limited to 28.5’ each. Length of the truck doesn’t matter at all.

Even if the above links weren’t there, I still don’t care about limits in the US since I’m not staying here anyways, and movement wouldn’t be an issue since you can still get permits for one-time travel. Doesn’t matter since I’ll probably stick to 20’ so I don’t lose anymore “off-road-ability” than I already will when I mount ISOs on the back. I’ll worry about the 40’ part when I get where I’m going, if I still want to do it by then (depends on the local economy)
 

Mos68x

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States have their own height/Width/Length/Weight restrictions too, so keep that in mind.
They do, but those only come into play when on those respective state highways and other roads, and not federal interstates. Most of the time, state limits on personal vehicles disappear when traveling in a different state. Part of the funding for states upkeep on federal highways is based on ensured travel for larger trucks based on federal limits and not state limits. Regardless though, most states try to stick to what the feds have set out so that there are no battles.
 

rbr0203

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Kenosha WI
There are are no length limits, but most trailers are designed for either single use or multi trailer use and have their lengths adjusted by the manufacturers. https://ops.fhwa.dot.gov/freight/publications/size_regs_final_rpt/

A single 40’ trailer is legal, but if you were to do multi trailers then no it wouldn’t be. Multi trailers are limited to 28.5’ each. Length of the truck doesn’t matter at all.

Even if the above links weren’t there, I still don’t care about limits in the US since I’m not staying here anyways, and movement wouldn’t be an issue since you can still get permits for one-time travel. Doesn’t matter since I’ll probably stick to 20’ so I don’t lose anymore “off-road-ability” than I already will when I mount ISOs on the back. I’ll worry about the 40’ part when I get where I’m going, if I still want to do it by then (depends on the local economy)
Ok now you got me curious. If you dont mind me asking where are you thinking about going?
 

8madjack

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Gold country Ca.
Take your sending unit out and dip it in some vinegar for a few hours. Unless you have another issue, like a sinking vs a floating float or the gauge itself, that’ll fix it most of the time. Corrosion builds up on the resistive contacts inside the sender and renders it useless. While you have it soaking in the vinegar, check other simple things like the wiring to be sure no rodents chewed on it.
I will do that, thanks. The guage works, but I may have a non foaty float....
 

71DeuceAK

Well-known member
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Fairbanks, Alaska
Thanks. Even though i was in the Marines and worked on Cummins engines mostley, Im still getting familiar with the truck. Not 100% sure what the differences are on the individual models. However, i know that if i keep on this site then i will be learning plenty of info.

As for my plans with the 5 ton i plan on removing the original bed ( which until yesterday was filled with junk and trash) and creating a aluminum flat bed. Speaking of which, if i wanted to sell something here where would i post it?
While not to tell you what to do with your truck, the 927's are kinda rare as it is. I myself am considering getting a 927/8 and building something living situation wise on the stock bed...inside the existing bed dropsides. Shoot me a PM if you like and I'd be happy to pass along my ideas...
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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After my "off road" oops two weekends ago I decided that since it was such a beautiful Saturday that I would bleed the brakes. Did it old school, one-man ( Soldier B went away with friends ). Started with a hand vacuum pump and catch bottle and did all the fittings except the "top" of the air-pac ( what engineering genius ran that line right next to the bleeder ? ). Once I had purple juice coming out of all six wheels I switched to the pump and pee method ( it's all I had ). Got a great pedal without assist. Rock hard and not dropping about an inch below the free travel. Double checked all bleeders were tight and m/c at correct level. Rechecked all the fluids under the hood again and fired her up. Again, this beast started like it had just been run yesterday. Pedal feels good. Got out and did a half - a***d pre-trip (lights, leaks, lugs, and all 10 tires "thunked" ok. Got back in and, to me, the pedal felt lower. Still solid when stood on ( stops a good 2-3 inches off the floorboard ) but it just seemed different. Maybe I'm just super sensitive after my recent escapade but I don't wanna take that ride again, or worse, have something happen on the road.

So here's my question in the statements. Is there ANY way the air-pac could be leaking air into the hydraulic side ? I ask because I still don't know why the pedal went away while sitting still and the m/c went empty, and I didn't see any leaks on the inner duals or fronts while it sat. I know air / hydraulic brakes are often like stepping on a wet sponge. Can't really judge how well they're working unless yer rolling. IF it were not parked next to a divided highway with no real parking lot ( motor pool ) to get into for a proper action test I would have just rolled around in a parking lot for a proper action test. I admit that by this point, I was pretty tired and sore ( also fell from / with the ladder I was using to clean the driver's side windshield ) so I gave up for the day. Still sore today ( Sunday ) so didn't crack open any bleeders but the pedal is still excellent without boost. When I do check and IF I don't get any air, I guess I'll just hafta sack up and roll out for a test run. I would do it at night but PA antique tags are supposed to be off the road no more than 1/2 hour after sunset. Nobody ( PO-PO ) cares unless something happens or it's a REALLY slow day in LEO land but I don't like to take unnecessary chances, especially with 26,000 pounds of E = mC squared rolling on unknown brakes. So I'll save that for the next installment.

On the UP side of the day, I won the local Redneck Lottery. The land owner where Exit Strategy is parked bequeathed me a travel trailer ( well, what's left of what was once a very NICE travel trailer ) since the owner hasn't paid him rent in over a year. He was gonna scrap it but asked me if I knew anyone that would want it. Half jokingly I said, " yeah, ME ! Wadda ya want for it ? " ( figuring he'd at least want what is owed for the back rent ). He said, " Well then, it's yours. " All he wants is for me to pay the $20 / month rent for the space. Soooo, this will be home as soon as I can make it "liveable" again.

View attachment 733751View attachment 733752

Of course that shouldn't take much. After a year in the back of Exit Strategy the "new age meth den" look of the trailer seems like a suite at the Ritz - Carlton. So there y'all have it. Hope eveyone else's weekend was good. Catch y'all later and Happy Motoring !
There is NO need for air when you bleed your brakes, the system does not need air to push the air out of it, what you do NEED is a power bleeder, a LOT faster, WILL get ALL the air out of the system, and will show if there is any leaks.
 

Mos68x

Active member
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Location
Seligman,AZ
While not to tell you what to do with your truck, the 927's are kinda rare as it is. I myself am considering getting a 927/8 and building something living situation wise on the stock bed...inside the existing bed dropsides. Shoot me a PM if you like and I'd be happy to pass along my ideas...
Why not create a thread? I’m curious, and given that any ideas would work for my situation I might even use them.


I will do that, thanks. The guage works, but I may have a non foaty float....


After I fixed/replaced my float I still had intermittent use on the gauge and it wasn’t accurate, hence why I pulled it out and cleaned the contacts inside the sender.


Ok now you got me curious. If you dont mind me asking where are you thinking about going?
Well, aside from traveling the back roads and trails here, I’ll be doing some “global traveling” with mine through the jungles of Central and South America. I’ve already seen some spots on YT where it would be tough enough just to squeeze the 5 ton through, a really long trailer would make it even more difficult. Along the way I’ll be looking for a new place to call home, so I’ll be traveling the really remote areas and there’s no tellin the condition of even their “good” roads.
 
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someoldmoose

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Lancaster, PA
Hey y'all. Nothing too exciting this week. Put a window air conditioner in where the non-opening window belongs on a rear door. Went pretty easily, 3 pieces of 2 x 4 and a couple 2 1/2" screws. Of course it also required a power source. The orange Home improvement store had one for a very nice price so it now lives under the truck on a leash attached to the frame. Have gotten 10.5 to 11 hours of run time from a tank, so I am happy.

ac install 1.jpgac install 2.jpggennie.jpg
 

rbr0203

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Kenosha WI
[FONT=Verdana said:
Well, aside from traveling the back roads and trails here, I’ll be doing some “global traveling” with mine through the jungles of Central and South America. I’ve already seen some spots on YT where it would be tough enough just to squeeze the 5 ton through, a really long trailer would make it even more difficult. Along the way I’ll be looking for a new place to call home, so I’ll be traveling the really remote areas and there’s no tellin the condition of even their “good” roads.[/FONT]
Ok now i understand.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Livonia, MI
The fuel gauge system in vehicles is very simplistic. Gauge and sender are in series, just a single wire circuit. Power starts at the gauge and goes through it, single wire from there to the sender and across the variable resistor at the sender, then out of the sender to the frame ground right by it. That frame ground can often be the case. For me, my float was full of fuel AND my gauge bad, both simultaneously. That was near impossible to find/fix. The new floats are plastic and can't get a hole corroded into them like the brass ones.
 

Mos68x

Active member
827
36
28
Location
Seligman,AZ
Hey y'all. Nothing too exciting this week. Put a window air conditioner in where the non-opening window belongs on a rear door. Went pretty easily, 3 pieces of 2 x 4 and a couple 2 1/2" screws. Of course it also required a power source. The orange Home improvement store had one for a very nice price so it now lives under the truck on a leash attached to the frame. Have gotten 10.5 to 11 hours of run time from a tank, so I am happy.

View attachment 734675View attachment 734676View attachment 734677
If it weren’t for my current pickle (the engine rebuild) I’d be all over trying to get AC in my ISO container. One thing at a time though, and it looks like rebuilding my replacement head just got pushed back a month or longer. My RV fridge that I’ve been using has given up the ghost so I’m gonna have to get a new unit this coming month. I don’t forsee having enough extra money to deal with at the same time.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
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Leesburg, GA
PMCS'd the truck and took it on a 30 mile drive so my better half could cut the grass under it. I did have to swap out a battery that went bad suddenly. Still have 2 exide 6TAGM's but what was shocking about the bad battery is it was manufactured in Jan 2017. It still holds 11.6 volts after a few days of sitting. It would still help the good battery start the truck but barely. Now with 2 good batteries, the starter turns the NHC 250 above idle speed which makes for almost healthy multifuel like starts.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Mason, TN
PMCS'd the truck and took it on a 30 mile drive so my better half could cut the grass under it. I did have to swap out a battery that went bad suddenly. Still have 2 exide 6TAGM's but what was shocking about the bad battery is it was manufactured in Jan 2017. It still holds 11.6 volts after a few days of sitting. It would still help the good battery start the truck but barely. Now with 2 good batteries, the starter turns the NHC 250 above idle speed which makes for almost healthy multifuel like starts.
I have had 2 carquest 8D's go bad. One in june. 3 days after its 1yr warranty expired. then 1 went last week. Went to Cummins and got one of their 8D's for half the price
 

TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA
If it weren’t for my current pickle (the engine rebuild) I’d be all over trying to get AC in my ISO container. One thing at a time though, and it looks like rebuilding my replacement head just got pushed back a month or longer. My RV fridge that I’ve been using has given up the ghost so I’m gonna have to get a new unit this coming month. I don’t forsee having enough extra money to deal with at the same time.
Look into an Aussie fridge. Chest freezer with different thermostat. Inexpensive and very efficient.
 

rbr0203

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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-1
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Location
Kenosha WI
If it weren’t for my current pickle (the engine rebuild) I’d be all over trying to get AC in my ISO container. One thing at a time though, and it looks like rebuilding my replacement head just got pushed back a month or longer. My RV fridge that I’ve been using has given up the ghost so I’m gonna have to get a new unit this coming month. I don’t forsee having enough extra money to deal with at the same time.
If you are interested local hardware stores have Soleus Air® 14,000 BTU 115-Volt Portable Air Conditioner with Heat. so with one unit you have heat and air conditioning plus it pretty cheap. all you have to do is stick the 4 inch exhaust tube out a wall or window. Real easy.
 

someoldmoose

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If you are interested local hardware stores have Soleus Air® 14,000 BTU 115-Volt Portable Air Conditioner with Heat. so with one unit you have heat and air conditioning plus it pretty cheap. all you have to do is stick the 4 inch exhaust tube out a wall or window. Real easy.
mos68X, this is exactly the unit I was trying to show you before. I apologize on behalf of my stupid Droid.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Soleus-...h-Dehumidifier-and-Remote-PSC-12-01/302190887

The 14K is no longer available / sold out. This is 12K, but that should still be enough if your can is insulated.

Moose
 
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jonesal

Mission Specialist
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Brookings, SD
If you are interested local hardware stores have Soleus Air® 14,000 BTU 115-Volt Portable Air Conditioner with Heat. so with one unit you have heat and air conditioning plus it pretty cheap. all you have to do is stick the 4 inch exhaust tube out a wall or window. Real easy.
I run this one in my shop - and yes, they are pretty inexpensive. It's actually a heat pump. So if you use both an inlet hose and out hose out the window (instead of one hose scalping off air from the interior) it is more efficient. It does fine up to about 85 to 90 outside for me. My shop has steel liner both outside and inside so it produces a lot heat in the summer. My 13 foot high ceiling makes for a pretty big space for only 14,000 BTUs. When I was using my garage as a shop (two stalls with 1-1/2 stories) it did a pretty good job.

Al in South Dakota
M923
 
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