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Added some "patriotic" stickers to the truck today, changing the transmission fluid/oil & outside filter tomorrow...
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
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- Charlotte NC
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- Perry, FL
I second that motion.
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- Fort Worth, Texas
Picked up this clean Kansas rebuild and gave her a face lift (paint), PMCS, and a few minor repairs. I've not seen a rebuilt engine that is navy gray/blue like this, maybe it was done at Cummins and shipped to the depot? Either way I feel it looks like it just rolled out the depot door.
Attachments
- 7,776
- 19,901
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- Location
- Charlotte NC
- 1,239
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- Location
- Wenatchee, WA
To circle back on this blow out i had awhile back, I found the hose on the water manifold to be fully plugged with solid rusty sludge for the 5" of hose closest to the surge tank. I'm thinking this has something to do with the pressure finding a messy way to relieve itself.
This was the sediment I pulled out of the sludge tank with a magnet...pretty bad...
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What paint did you use?
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Behr Marque Flat Exterior
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- Wenatchee, WA
I tore into my left rear hub suspecting a leaky wheel cylinder and all I found was two stripped lug studs and a rolled lip on the inner hub seal. Whoever last torqued those nuts & thimbles (army most likely) must have laid on it with a 1" impact because they were on tight! Using impacts with 1200 ft-lb break away torque did almost nothing. Breaker bars with torque multipliers did nothing. I laid on my impact until the tank was drained and repeated 3-5 times before they started to move. 1 week delay waiting on new studs to arrive and then I lost the battle with the new hub seal (even after shrinking in the freezer).
I turned my HubHelper sideways and then laid the hub face down taking the floor jack with it to drive the seal in from straight above. I ended up deforming the new seal and reinstalling the old seal - very frustrating.
After this episode I think I'm gonna source some Scotseal hub seals with the fine rubber ribs on the outside circumference. That's all we used at the Freightliner shop and for good reason. They're not cheap but they just work.
I turned my HubHelper sideways and then laid the hub face down taking the floor jack with it to drive the seal in from straight above. I ended up deforming the new seal and reinstalling the old seal - very frustrating.
After this episode I think I'm gonna source some Scotseal hub seals with the fine rubber ribs on the outside circumference. That's all we used at the Freightliner shop and for good reason. They're not cheap but they just work.
- 2,073
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- Florence, SC
Here is a better pic of that sticker & another one I got as well too...
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- 242
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- Location
- Marion, AR.
When you where installing the new seal, did you use a driver/seating tool, or something else. You can always use the front hub cap to seat the inner seals. I don't this method would work on some different seals, but works well with stock seals.
nayrbrellim
Active member
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- Reidsville, NC
Nice looking ride!
- 7,776
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- Charlotte NC
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Thanks for the pointer to your site!
I had to place an order for a few stickers...
Tim
Crf450x
Well-known member
- 275
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- Location
- Fall Branch, TN
Got my wheels painted a couple days ago. Very happy with how they turned out.
Attachments
- 7,776
- 19,901
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
Crf450x
Well-known member
- 275
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- 63
- Location
- Fall Branch, TN
Thank you! I just wanted to do something a little different
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With my brother's help I finally decided to tackle the front inner axle seal that I knew was letting gear oil into the hub, wheel bearings, and knuckle boot. I'd been putting this repair off knowing how involved it could be and I made a contraption for removing the seal holder without the use of a slide hammer or a long bar from the other side.
This time I mounted the spout and can holder to my HubHelper to keep the gear oil mess to a minimum.
After reading about others using a gear puller with the jaws removed to pull the seal holder out, i made this gizmo to do the same thing using a tapped bar, a 12" long 3/4" leg screw, 1/4" c-channel, and a TIG filler rod to hold thigs in place. The amount of force required almost collapsed the c-channel...
We found that half the seal had been crushed inward deforming the rubber lip into more of an oval shape. It's always nice when the source of a problem readily shows itself
I found a scary situation while disassembling the spindle; the tightest of the 10 spindle retaining nuts i had was at 40 ft-lbs when the spec calls for 130-167 ft-lbs...no bueno!
This makes me want to inspect the driver side as well
There was so much gear oil in the knuckle (about 1/2 a quart) that I grabbed my brake bleeding hose and suck-started a siphon to drain it out. The clear hose gave me enough warning to move my mouth before taking on any oil...phew.
The worst part of the job was when I flexed the Birfield CV joint too much and all 4 of the outer balls fell out. We had just repacked all the fresh, messy grease in and it took some time to figure out what position I needed to hold my shaft in so that my brother could fondle my greasy balls back into place...
This time I mounted the spout and can holder to my HubHelper to keep the gear oil mess to a minimum.
After reading about others using a gear puller with the jaws removed to pull the seal holder out, i made this gizmo to do the same thing using a tapped bar, a 12" long 3/4" leg screw, 1/4" c-channel, and a TIG filler rod to hold thigs in place. The amount of force required almost collapsed the c-channel...
We found that half the seal had been crushed inward deforming the rubber lip into more of an oval shape. It's always nice when the source of a problem readily shows itself
I found a scary situation while disassembling the spindle; the tightest of the 10 spindle retaining nuts i had was at 40 ft-lbs when the spec calls for 130-167 ft-lbs...no bueno!
This makes me want to inspect the driver side as well
There was so much gear oil in the knuckle (about 1/2 a quart) that I grabbed my brake bleeding hose and suck-started a siphon to drain it out. The clear hose gave me enough warning to move my mouth before taking on any oil...phew.
The worst part of the job was when I flexed the Birfield CV joint too much and all 4 of the outer balls fell out. We had just repacked all the fresh, messy grease in and it took some time to figure out what position I needed to hold my shaft in so that my brother could fondle my greasy balls back into place...
- 7,776
- 19,901
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.With my brother's help I finally decided to tackle the front inner axle seal that I knew was letting gear oil into the hub, wheel bearings, and knuckle boot. I'd been putting this repair off knowing how involved it could be and I made a contraption for removing the seal holder without the use of a slide hammer or a long bar from the other side.
This time I mounted the spout and can holder to my HubHelper to keep the gear oil mess to a minimum.
View attachment 835629
View attachment 835630
View attachment 835631
After reading about others using a gear puller with the jaws removed to pull the seal holder out, i made this gizmo to do the same thing using a tapped bar, a 12" long 3/4" leg screw, 1/4" c-channel, and a TIG filler rod to hold thigs in place. The amount of force required almost collapsed the c-channel...
View attachment 835632
View attachment 835633
View attachment 835634
View attachment 835635
View attachment 835636
We found that half the seal had been crushed inward deforming the rubber lip into more of an oval shape. It's always nice when the source of a problem readily shows itself
View attachment 835637
I found a scary situation while disassembling the spindle; the tightest of the 10 spindle retaining nuts i had was at 40 ft-lbs when the spec calls for 130-167 ft-lbs...no bueno!
This makes me want to inspect the driver side as well
View attachment 835638
There was so much gear oil in the knuckle (about 1/2 a quart) that I grabbed my brake bleeding hose and suck-started a siphon to drain it out. The clear hose gave me enough warning to move my mouth before taking on any oil...phew.
The worst part of the job was when I flexed the Birfield CV joint too much and all 4 of the outer balls fell out. We had just repacked all the fresh, messy grease in and it took some time to figure out what position I needed to be in so that my brother could fondle my greasy balls back into place...
Wow! Nice job of documenting the process.
Fixing that sort of thing makes you feel good when it's done - but there isn't a lot of "show" when you finish.
The drip lip for gear oil was a major plus!
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You're right - there's really nothing to show for it externally. I'll have one less drip on the ground and I'll feel much more confident on longer trips. The whole RH side of the chassis was getting misted and splattered by the oil that escaped from the cracked knuckle boot on my longer trips (40+ miles).
Being a 1981 manufacture i was almost expecting the u-joint type knuckle, but it wasn't so.
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A new warning label so I don't over shoot anyone by a week and a half 
My truck wouldn't look good in plaid.
My truck wouldn't look good in plaid.
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