• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

Russ Knight

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,117
1,054
113
Location
Perry, FL
My next project will be the driver's seat in my M929. I sure miss the air ride seats in my M925 ROPS and the MTVR. I think I would be more comfortable sitting on a milk crate. Any ideas?
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,774
19,893
113
Location
Charlotte NC
My next project will be the driver's seat in my M929. I sure miss the air ride seats in my M925 ROPS and the MTVR. I think I would be more comfortable sitting on a milk crate. Any ideas?
.
Might be worth a trip to a local junk yard (salvage yard for some folks) and find yourself a "new-to-you" air ride seat. Maybe?
 
Last edited:

5TID

Well-known member
74
278
53
Location
Boise, ID
Could you use thread lock instead of wire? I need to change mine too.
I suppose you could, but the wire is pretty simple. Just get some 18 or 20ga galvanized wire. Pretty easy to do. My bolts are a flat head screwdriver, not a hex head, so thread lock might be too much to get back out if needed.
 

5 Ton John

Member
31
42
18
Location
Mississippi
Hello guys i have just sold my M923A3 and I’m looking at a M813A1 or a M923A2. I’m leaning towards the 5 ton, I had a 900 series before. Just curious of what your thoughts are on you guys that own the 800 series trucks . I will just be using it for fun parades etc
Hello, if you like the old school feel of driving a manual transmission, there is nothing better than the 800 series. It just seems more enjoyable to drive a manual 5 ton and the 855 cummins on the 800 is legendary for reliability.
 

Wreckclues

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
227
623
93
Location
Jefferson, Massachusetts
It just seems more enjoyable to drive a manual 5 ton and the 855 cummins on the 800 is legendary for reliability.
Agreed on the ride, just one test drive of my 813 had me hooked. They're also easy to wrench on. The engine bay isn't chockablock full of parts, everything is reachable and the mechanics are straight forward, in a Frankenstein's monster sort of way...just BIG!
So far I haven't had any major problems diagnosing, chasing down, repairing or replacing parts at a reasonable price.
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,657
1,676
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
I posted most of what I did in my WeenieWagun build thread..

I also found my stash of 24V LED marker bulbs and headlights that was going to go in my deuce and now repurposed to my 5T, so that'll be getting done shortly.

Also needed these.. sharing for those who don't know how easy they are to find... No more paying $50/pair for 'tactical wiper blades' or some such nonsense at some of these surplus sellers.

2023-05-11_045237.png
 

Wreckclues

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
227
623
93
Location
Jefferson, Massachusetts
Rebuilt the Primer Pump on my M813 and eliminated another possible source of air into the fuel.

The O-rings were shot, wasn't pumping and there was no vacuum. Then during disassembly, I compounded the problem by crushing the cylinder tube with a pair of vice grips, take care disassembling, the plunger piston wouldn't go all the way through the cylinder. After cleaning in the ultrasonic parts washer, I drilled it out with a mill head and finish sanded with wet dry sandpaper pinched into a 2-inch cotter pin mounted in a drill press, wrapping the paper around the pin to the diameter of the cylinder.

Found the piston rings took 8 mm ID X 12mm OD X 2 mm thick O-rings. After reassembly I had a clean vacuum in the cylinder and the truck started without starter fluid after sitting for about a month. Took about 20 seconds of cranking.

PP1.jpgPP1.jpgPP2.jpgPP2ab.pngPP3a.jpgPP4.jpgPP4a.jpgPP2.jpg
 

5 Ton John

Member
31
42
18
Location
Mississippi
I had to change my fuel filter in mine today after it started stopping up and cutting out on me. It's been converted to a spin on filter unit. On a side note, how often do most of yall have this issue? Mine sat up with some old fuel in it for a while and the tank was very rusty and had gunk in it. I cleaned it best I could and changed filter. Probably change it again soon though to make sure I got everything out. That's the reason for asking how often yall usually change/clean the fuel filter.
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,657
1,676
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
I had to change my fuel filter in mine today after it started stopping up and cutting out on me. It's been converted to a spin on filter unit. On a side note, how often do most of yall have this issue? Mine sat up with some old fuel in it for a while and the tank was very rusty and had gunk in it. I cleaned it best I could and changed filter. Probably change it again soon though to make sure I got everything out. That's the reason for asking how often yall usually change/clean the fuel filter.
15K miles or 3 years for most cars. Heavy duty trucks have larger filters to offset the increased fuel requirements. I still couldn't see it needing to be changed any more frequently. Sounds like you either have contamination or a different issue. The fuel filters also act as a polisher, as it continuously goes through the filter, then dumps back into the tank... Continuously cleaning it over and over again.

What spin on are you using? It's possible that it's way too small for the application or can't flow enough.

Fuel flow is inversely proportional to its filtration ability. The greater the filtration capability, the less fuel will flow. A 20 micron absolute filter might work, but the same size 2 micron filter might not as it restricts too much.

I'm a big fan of parallel filtration with 2 filters on these trucks, as it increases flow capability, and each filter will get used up relatively equally, because once one starts getting clogged, the fuel will flow through the path of least resistance which is the other filter.


I use FB1311 base with Baldwin BF7587 filters.
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,774
19,893
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I had to change my fuel filter in mine today after it started stopping up and cutting out on me. It's been converted to a spin on filter unit. On a side note, how often do most of yall have this issue? Mine sat up with some old fuel in it for a while and the tank was very rusty and had gunk in it. I cleaned it best I could and changed filter. Probably change it again soon though to make sure I got everything out. That's the reason for asking how often yall usually change/clean the fuel filter.
.
Could be as simple as sucking air at the filter housing. Some folks screw them on dry. Others fill and attach. Having something wet on the rubber seal will definitely help you from "rolling the rubber".

Oh yeah - and don't forget that you might have left the rubber seal from the filter you removed stuck to the mating surface. Not intentionally, but always a possibility...
 

5 Ton John

Member
31
42
18
Location
Mississippi
15K miles or 3 years for most cars. Heavy duty trucks have larger filters to offset the increased fuel requirements. I still couldn't see it needing to be changed any more frequently. Sounds like you either have contamination or a different issue. The fuel filters also act as a polisher, as it continuously goes through the filter, then dumps back into the tank... Continuously cleaning it over and over again.

What spin on are you using? It's possible that it's way too small for the application or can't flow enough.

Fuel flow is inversely proportional to its filtration ability. The greater the filtration capability, the less fuel will flow. A 20 micron absolute filter might work, but the same size 2 micron filter might not as it restricts too much.

I'm a big fan of parallel filtration with 2 filters on these trucks, as it increases flow capability, and each filter will get used up relatively equally, because once one starts getting clogged, the fuel will flow through the path of least resistance which is the other filter.


I use FB1311 base with Baldwin BF7587 filters.
This last time I used a 86109 filter from carquest. I know it wasn't nearly as large as the filter that was previously on it, but when it stopped up last time it was in a place that I couldn't leave it so I had to get the only filter I could find in stock at the time. I usually run a much larger filter on it. Can't recall the number at the moment. This 1 was just temporary to get me home. I will be going back with the larger filter this time.
 

5 Ton John

Member
31
42
18
Location
Mississippi
Did you check your pickup tube? Had the same problem with mine turned out the pickup tube was steel and had rotted out.
I did check the pickup tube. It is steel but wasn't too bad rusty. However the tank was very rusty inside. I tried to clean as much of it as possible, but with the baffles in the tank you can't get to every section of the tank to clean. So I just got what I could and said I would change the filter again in a short time. Hopefully after changing it again it will have cleaned all the rest of the junk out of the system by then.
 

5 Ton John

Member
31
42
18
Location
Mississippi
.
Could be as simple as sucking air at the filter housing. Some folks screw them on dry. Others fill and attach. Having something wet on the rubber seal will definitely help you from "rolling the rubber".

Oh yeah - and don't forget that you might have left the rubber seal from the filter you removed stuck to the mating surface. Not intentionally, but always a possibility...
That is a good suggestion. However I always prefill the filter and wet the seal before screwing the new one on. Also I checked and made certain that the old seal was totally removed also. I'm hoping that it was just the little bit of residual gunk in the tank that I couldn't get out that stopped the last filter up. It was a smaller filter than i like to run, but it got me out of a jam. I'll be replacing it with the larger filter this time and hopefully it will be good now. Thanks to all you for the suggestions. The reason for the question about the interval on changing the filters is more for the next time now that I have it straightened out hopefully.
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,657
1,676
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
This last time I used a 86109 filter from carquest. I know it wasn't nearly as large as the filter that was previously on it, but when it stopped up last time it was in a place that I couldn't leave it so I had to get the only filter I could find in stock at the time. I usually run a much larger filter on it. Can't recall the number at the moment. This 1 was just temporary to get me home. I will be going back with the larger filter this time.

Good news.

That's a 1-14 filter..... Meaning the same thread base as the FB1311 I use, which means you can use the BF7587 (4 micron absolute).

The 7587 is close to a foot long... It's a beefy one, with serious filtration capability.

Bad news is, the 86109 is 5 nominal, 20 absolute... meaning it's really a 20 micron filter.... and it's very small, about half the length of the 7587... So, it's probably clogged, and pretty bad.... The thing is.... with 20 micron absolute, those are some relatively big chunks that are being allowed to get through.
 

5 Ton John

Member
31
42
18
Location
Mississippi
Good news.

That's a 1-14 filter..... Meaning the same thread base as the FB1311 I use, which means you can use the BF7587 (4 micron absolute).

The 7587 is close to a foot long... It's a beefy one, with serious filtration capability.

Bad news is, the 86109 is 5 nominal, 20 absolute... meaning it's really a 20 micron filter.... and it's very small, about half the length of the 7587... So, it's probably clogged, and pretty bad.... The thing is.... with 20 micron absolute, those are some relatively big chunks that are being allowed to get through.
Thanks for the info. That sounds like a much better option for the filter. Where do you get yours at?
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,657
1,676
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
That is a good suggestion. However I always prefill the filter and wet the seal before screwing the new one on. Also I checked and made certain that the old seal was totally removed also. I'm hoping that it was just the little bit of residual gunk in the tank that I couldn't get out that stopped the last filter up. It was a smaller filter than i like to run, but it got me out of a jam. I'll be replacing it with the larger filter this time and hopefully it will be good now. Thanks to all you for the suggestions. The reason for the question about the interval on changing the filters is more for the next time now that I have it straightened out hopefully.
Thanks for the info. That sounds like a much better option for the filter. Where do you get yours at?
Wherever they're cheapest. ;)

I had a local filter place that was pretty competitive, but there are some things they're just WAY off on, and these filters were one one of those examples.


They're normally $20-25 a piece, so 6 for $94 is a decent deal. Cheaper to buy them and keep them on hand if you need them, since they don't really go bad.... If you get a bad batch of fuel, you might be replacing them quite a bit...
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks