What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

[Wreckclues]

Started a Rad fluid change and block heater installation.

Took Juanprado's advice and bent back the wings to the radiator petcock to take it out with a socket wrench. Found that the petcock on my spare fuel/water separator was the same size...saved a little cash.

 

[Wreckclues]

Installed one of Big Mike's engine block heaters. He advertises it as "ENGINE BLOCK HEATER FOR M809, M939, AND M939A1 MODELS w/NHC 250 CUMMINS - EBH250".
The instructions say it's for Cummins (855 CID) engine series with side plate, which I assume covers our engines. The heating element on my device points aft, probably should have installed it at th middle engine plate as the photo in the instructions suggest, but I couldn't get at it without removing more parts than I was prepared to. Regardless, it works great, temps have been in the teens and the engine is warm to the touch.

 

[Mack90]

Been collection parts & hopefully with all this my "fuel" issue will be resolved. New stainless steel pickup tubes, fuel sending unit, tank vent valve, dual filter kit w/filters & swapping out any outdated/oem rubber fuel lines...

I am about to take on this exact project. My copper fuel lines have seperated at tank connection. I bought a flaring tool to sort it out. Do you have any tips/advice on your project? My fuel is draining back to tank causing difficult starts after sitting for a few days. Where did you get the pickup tubes?

 

[Wreckclues]

Installed a 24 Volt, 3-8 psi fuel pump, bypassing the PT pump, to charge the fuel rail prior to starting and diagnose what my RPM issue is. To recap she's hard starting and I can't get her over 1000 RPM.
Also addressed a bent nipple on the fuel shutoff valve that caused a misalignment of the valve with the fuel rail. Broke the old one off after attempting to bend it back. Drilled and tapped for a 1/4 inch NPT steel nipple, although now it stands taller it lines up better with the fuel rail.
Had originally planned to pull fuel from a Frankenstein's monster "T" fitting that was to complicated and didn't fit the space allowed. Instead I drilled and tapped a 6410 series Male to Female boss adapter, attached directly to the truck's filter, for a 5/16 inch fuel barb. A 6410 series straight reducer accepts the trucks original fuel line fitting.
The electric pump's fuel line attaches to a check valve, had originally planned an inline filter but removed as redundant. The pump is attached to one of the cable brackets bolted to the engine block where it's also grounded. It's powered by the fuel solenoid circuit, my rig is a fully manual stop. Had intended to use the cold start circuit, which proved to be dead, oh well, another project.
On start up the pump is powered by the ignition switch and can be turned off once the engine is running. Fuel flows to the engine through a spare fuel port on the Solenoid body. Also removed the manual solenoid shutoff screw and sealed it with a bolt and Oring.
Tests are inconclusive as now I have a dead battery in my pack and can't get more than a couple pulls on the starter. Also not sure what kind of return to expect from a 3-8 psi pump on the fuel rail. I only have a trickle.