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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
I modified my air cleaner housing to use a smaller diameter filter in hopes of getting better airflow to my engine. The air cleaner indicator in the cab always shows a restriction after a drive so I know that it's not getting enough air. I used a Baldwin RS3548. And my dog Riley gave me the seal of approval after a sniff.
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As a separate test, remove the air intake mushroom cap at the top of the cab pipe. If you look at the surface area of the screen, compared to the filter media surface area, it's a joke. I think it is the same OD as a deuce mushroom, but with a larger pipe, so that leaves even less inlet screen area than a deuce mushroom.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
I added an overhead shelf to my M925A2 cab interior. Wanting to add too many goodies such as radios, gauges, switches, GPS, etc.... There simply is not enough room in the dash.

I used an extruded aluminum commercial door threshold and a couple of angle brackets to the interior hardtop lip on each side. No worries, it will get flat black paint.
 

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Andyrv6av8r

Well-known member
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Spartanburg,SC
As a separate test, remove the air intake mushroom cap at the top of the cab pipe. If you look at the surface area of the screen, compared to the filter media surface area, it's a joke. I think it is the same OD as a deuce mushroom, but with a larger pipe, so that leaves even less inlet screen area than a deuce mushroom.
I'll have to try that next. A test drive proved that changing the air filter helped but it still shows a slight restriction. About half of what it used to be on the indicator.
 
185
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16
Location
Charleston,WV
Well, As far as what I did to my 5 ton this week....I just bought it yesterday so I guess that's something HA!. Now I actually feel like I belong on this site lol.

I actually got the first very Frankencab/high top with ROPS 5 ton to be auctioned off of the new Govplanet site..pictured in my avatar.
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
Ditched the four 2009 dated 6T batteries in favor of two 1175CCA group 31's. Wanted the room to move my heater core and fan inside the cab in an attempt to get it warmer. Lots of room to easily do it now. I simply removed everything, cut two 1"x4"'s to 20" long, and a 14" piece of stainless Unistrut and reutilized one original J bolt hold down. All worked perfect and freed up a lot of space under the seat.

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gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Cincy Ohio
I added an overhead shelf to my M925A2 cab interior. Wanting to add too many goodies such as radios, gauges, switches, GPS, etc.... There simply is not enough room in the dash.

I used an extruded aluminum commercial door threshold and a couple of angle brackets to the interior hardtop lip on each side. No worries, it will get flat black paint.
You should have used some of the extruded aluminum that accepts T-nuts, so you have an easily aligned sliding slots for mounting gear!
 

Plugugly

New member
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Location
Iowa
Today I did a couple little things. I put a block heater in my 923A2 a while back, and I wanted the plug easier to get to. I bought a Marinco plug pass-through and mounted it on the hood. It seals up nicely. Even though the back side is basically exposed, I wanted something that would keep the end clean and keep it out of pooling water. I'm happy with it, I might paint it when it warms up.

The other thing I did was pull out and cut the fuel tank screen. I never liked the way diesel splashed back out when fueling, so I opened the top half up so I could fuel without the back splash. I still have the screen if I am ever concerned about quality, and I attached the chain from my cap, which was always loose before.
 

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zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
7,744
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Location
Columbus Georgia
Nothing fascinating - got the Joker down to the garage after giving the batteries a light charge after all this cold weather - Plan on removing the rear tandem CTIS valves as I already removed the steer valves and weights. Reason for this is I have a nasty hop out of the steer axle while going down the road. I can drive out of the hop so I know its in the tires. Dang thing nearly wants to jump off the ground under 35 mph - it flattens out after that.

I have Multi Seal in all the tires and the pressures hold dead nuts on - I still have the disconnected valves on the tandems and hopefully after removing them it clears up. Steers have both been changed and there is no rim damage. I have even played with tire pressures over the year (2014) and its closer but the ugly hop is still present. Previous to me I do not know if any of the tires sat flat for any length of time on the tandems - elimination of the steers being changed is not an issue ( of course unless one of them buggers sat flat before I got it).
 

whatadeuce

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
Today I inspected why my M35A2 clutch slips aafter a longer all out trip, and found three things: 1. The tranny was filled to the top, drained down to almost 2 knuckles below the opening, 2. The clutch free play travel is about 1/2", i tried ti remove the clutch spring but its so hard, I'm afraid I wont be able to get it back on. 3. I pulled the bell housing inspection plate and found a large amount of black oil everywhere inside. It dont smell like tranny oil, i think its engine oil. I cleaned inside with brake cleaner, and I dont think the engine oil was overfilled before the trip.How did the oil get in there?
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
326
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Today I inspected why my M35A2 clutch slips aafter a longer all out trip, and found three things: 1. The tranny was filled to the top, drained down to almost 2 knuckles below the opening, 2. The clutch free play travel is about 1/2", i tried ti remove the clutch spring but its so hard, I'm afraid I wont be able to get it back on. 3. I pulled the bell housing inspection plate and found a large amount of black oil everywhere inside. It dont smell like tranny oil, i think its engine oil. I cleaned inside with brake cleaner, and I dont think the engine oil was overfilled before the trip.How did the oil get in there?
Was this supposed to be posted in the Deuce section?

Engine leaks typically stay forward of the flywheel, including the engine rear main crank oil seal. Use brake spring pliers to handle your clutch pedal spring.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
326
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Today I did a couple little things. I put a block heater in my 923A2 a while back, and I wanted the plug easier to get to. I bought a Marinco plug pass-through and mounted it on the hood. It seals up nicely. Even though the back side is basically exposed, I wanted something that would keep the end clean and keep it out of pooling water. I'm happy with it, I might paint it when it warms up.

The other thing I did was pull out and cut the fuel tank screen. I never liked the way diesel splashed back out when fueling, so I opened the top half up so I could fuel without the back splash. I still have the screen if I am ever concerned about quality, and I attached the chain from my cap, which was always loose before.
i have been looking for something to use those lower corner hood grill front boxes for! Good job!
 

Coffey1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Gray Court SC
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Another good example of why you need a coolent filter
Had to pull end cap off radiator it was leaking.
Cleaned everything up made new gasket .
Biggest problem was just a million bolts nuts washers.
 
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Coffey1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Gray Court SC
By the way a big thanks to Andyrv6av8r for his help in fixing this leak.

Also found one of major air leaks.
The tube that goes to parking valve was loose.
Now truck will hold air overnight.
 
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