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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
That bent piece of metal on the top of the winch I believe is a keeper of
sorts. I "think" it kinda keeps things together but I could be wrong.
Anyways I took mine off that was bent too and replaced it w/ a much
more robust piece of channel, I think it is like 8"x2"x.25" wall or so.
It really stiffens things up a LOT, and from there you can have funa
adding lights on it or in my case I added a Pioneer tool rack and
InfaReds w/ high and low beam and RCL's (spots) and I have a
future circuit up there waiting for something as well. Good job on
the add, now add an electric winch in the back! :)

front1.jpg
 

crolfe1984

New member
43
0
0
Location
Baltimore, MD
Loaded up 14 of my best friends in the back of my M923A2 last night and made a short drive to Tide Point (Baltimore City, MD) for New Year's Eve fireworks!
 

Coffey1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,871
497
83
Location
Gray Court SC
100_4970.jpg100_4969.jpg

Added these bus bars for the winches to keep battery's free of all the wiring.
Added these caps to keep my new valves free of dirt.
 

tbar123

Member
691
24
18
Location
enon,oh
I had a great day until the block heater come into play. I changed the fuel filter, then greased everything and was amazed that all of the zirts were pointing down! I then drained the oil ( the box chute worked perfectly again)and installed the oil filter adapter. I then drained all the coolant and replaced the upper radiator hose elbow( Napa #7905 for 22 bucks)next I removed the coolant plate. Next I installed the new KATS block heater and refilled the coolant. That's were things turned into a big steaming pile of crap. The :soapbox: heater was leaking around the coil. So now I had to drain the fresh coolant and remove the "new" heater and realize this thing is crap and I can't get another one until after I'm in bed for work tomorrow!
 

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Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
119
63
Location
Gray, GA
I had a great day until the block heater come into play. I changed the fuel filter, then greased everything and was amazed that all of the zirts were pointing down! I then drained the oil ( the box chute worked perfectly again)and installed the oil filter adapter. I then drained all the coolant and replaced the upper radiator hose elbow( Napa #7905 for 22 bucks)next I removed the coolant plate. Next I installed the new KATS block heater and refilled the coolant. That's were things turned into a big steaming pile of crap. The :soapbox: heater was leaking around the coil. So now I had to drain the fresh coolant and remove the "new" heater and realize this thing is crap and I can't get another one until after I'm in bed for work tomorrow!
If you don't like the two piece version, the Zerostart is one piece. The element connector is welded to the plate so it can't leak. I got mine from O'riellys for $59. They had to order it but the model number is: Zerostart 8601046.

IMG_20141109_121932_448.jpg
 

Scar59

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,811
41
38
Location
Mt. Eden, KY
I had a great day until the block heater come into play. I changed the fuel filter, then greased everything and was amazed that all of the zirts were pointing down! I then drained the oil ( the box chute worked perfectly again)and installed the oil filter adapter. I then drained all the coolant and replaced the upper radiator hose elbow( Napa #7905 for 22 bucks)next I removed the coolant plate. Next I installed the new KATS block heater and refilled the coolant. That's were things turned into a big steaming pile of crap. The :soapbox: heater was leaking around the coil. So now I had to drain the fresh coolant and remove the "new" heater and realize this thing is crap and I can't get another one until after I'm in bed for work tomorrow!
Tbar,
The block heater needs the gland nut tightened, remove the electrical connector and tighten the nut. I have found these assembled loose from the manufacture. You may have to remove the unit to get it tight. Otherwise, the oil filter adapter looks great.
JC
 
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Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
Mine leaks just enough to see a stain on the plate. Doesn't ever drip so I haven't tried tightening it. I meant to remove and reseal it when I put the turbo on. I had the coolant drained, but I guess I was too excited and forgot. The block heater definitely makes a difference as does the turbo!
 

tbar123

Member
691
24
18
Location
enon,oh
Tbar,
The block heater needs the gland nut tightened, remove the electrical connector and tighten the nut. I have found these assembled loose from the manufacture. You may have to remove the unit to get it tight. Otherwise, the oil filter adapter looks great.
JC
JC, I tightened that nut as far as it could be tightened and it still leaked like a sive. But the oil kit was the easiest thing I have ever done, much obliged!
 

Scar59

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,811
41
38
Location
Mt. Eden, KY
JC, I tightened that nut as far as it could be tightened and it still leaked like a sive. But the oil kit was the easiest thing I have ever done, much obliged!
Bad scene, off it comes, might be able to seal it up with hi temp RTV, or start fresh with another unit. Wish I was closer, I have 3 or 4 units in the shop.
 
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