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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

TCD

TCD

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Mound.House, NV
Cape Coastie said:
View attachment 641979View attachment 641980View attachment 641981

After doing some reading and replacing the leaking heater core anyway I installed a coolant filter with DCA additive. Went pretty well. No leaks. Filter is on a bypass circuit and there is a shutoff on the 5/8" heater hose so in the summer I can shut off the heater circuit and keep the filter circuit in the loop. Also added a filter to the fuel tank vent at the top of the engine air intake. No picture as it was dark, will add some soon. Was having an issue with loosing prime and when I went to remove the fuel fill cap tank was under some pretty good vacuum. First thing I looked at was the vent and it was plugged solid with some kind of mud dauber or something. It was plugged solid. Looked there first as it was plugged when I first got the truck running. Truck now has it's pep back and hopefully the vent filter will keep out the bugs and there homes.
Click to expand...
Howdy,

I would interested in any info you might be able to provide with regards to using a coolant filter with or without the DCA additive. I have started researching this issue because I will be adding a coolant filter to my truck soon.

Am I correct in assuming that the bypass valve was to reduce heat in the cab during the summer?

Can you provide a simple diagram of the bypass plumbing?

Thanks,
Tom
 
therooster2001

therooster2001

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Fixed a leak in the wiper hose, which was quite chewed up. Did something to disrupt the ABS while in the dash, I now have the light on. Still does the 2 series of clicks, so now I have to figure that out. Need to clean up the garage and put stuff in the classifieds to make room for the wife's new car (57 T-Bird).
 
M35A2-AZ

M35A2-AZ

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therooster2001 said:
Fixed a leak in the wiper hose, which was quite chewed up. Did something to disrupt the ABS while in the dash, I now have the light on. Still does the 2 series of clicks, so now I have to figure that out. Need to clean up the garage and put stuff in the classifieds to make room for the wife's new car (57 T-Bird).
Click to expand...
You may of pulled a wire lose to the ABS, also there are two fuses under the dash, one may of popped out.
 
Another Ahab

Another Ahab

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therooster2001 said:
Fixed a leak in the wiper hose, which was quite chewed up. Did something to disrupt the ABS while in the dash, I now have the light on. Still does the 2 series of clicks, so now I have to figure that out. Need to clean up the garage and put stuff in the classifieds to make room for the wife's new car (57 T-Bird).
Click to expand...
That sounds sweet. Is it one of the hard-top convertibles? Got a pic?
 
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Cape Coastie

Cape Coastie

CWO4 ENG/MSS, USCG, RET.
528
124
43
Location
Sandwich, MA
image.jpg
TCD said:
Howdy,

I would interested in any info you might be able to provide with regards to using a coolant filter with or without the DCA additive. I have started researching this issue because I will be adding a coolant filter to my truck soon.

Am I correct in assuming that the bypass valve was to reduce heat in the cab during the summer?

Can you provide a simple diagram of the bypass plumbing?

Thanks,
Tom
Click to expand...
Hey TCD, here is a simple and really pretty crude drawing of the system I installed. The heater hoses are 5/8" and the filter hoses are 3/8". The valves are 1/2" with 5/8" hose nipples on the heater hose and 1/4" with 3/8" hose nipples and the tees are 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Pex reducing "T". These tees fit the hoses pretty snug so the size is ok. The 1/2" valve is used to close off the flow of coolant to the heater during the warm months while still allowing flow through the filter. With all valves open it seems as though the coolant flows pretty well. Everything was warm after test run. With the filter only using 3/8" hose most coolant will flow through the heater core. Haven't had it in cold weather yet so will find out this winter. I have valves to close off the filter to change and control flow through the filter. Hopes this helps. Let me know if you need any additional info. All plumbing fittings were bought at Home Depot.
 
Cape Coastie

Cape Coastie

CWO4 ENG/MSS, USCG, RET.
528
124
43
Location
Sandwich, MA
Forgot to include the filter housing is actually a Mercury marine part but any filter housing will do and you could get one with bigger fittings if you wanted. Mounted the filter on an "L" bracket mounted to the heater core box bracket.
 
therooster2001

therooster2001

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M35A2-AZ said:
You may of pulled a wire lose to the ABS, also there are two fuses under the dash, one may of popped out.
Click to expand...
Fuses are both good, so it's a wire somewhere in there. I have small hands and am a small guy, but barely fit under there, I don't know how the soldiers worked on these things...

Ahab, we are negotiating so not 100% ours yet. It still has to get past our mechanic, then it might be ours.. It's a convertible hardtop.


Car looks better in person, the overcast of this pict doesn't do it justice. Yes it's pink. Actually, it's Dusk Rose, an original 1957 color.

She joked that if I bought her an MV it would have to be digital pink camo...

IMG_0314.jpg
 
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simp5782

simp5782

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Moved a m880 and clark c500 to their new home. Yes the 12k forklift does fit in the bed. Even with the mammoth winch 20160907_154042.jpeg

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simp5782

simp5782

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Oh the rear of the trailer is an F250. Just providing lighting. 923 and m322 are too long for doubles

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simp5782

simp5782

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TwistedOaks said:
My question is, how did you get the forklift in the bed?
Click to expand...
I drove it in there. My m322 ramps i made are designed to pin to the bed mounts i added. Drove onto the trailer then ramps from front into bed. Getting it over the winch was the challenge

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