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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

814
16
18
Location
Universal City, TX
Got part 2 of the hand air brake installed. Cleaned out the valve and replaced all the Teflon tape. Then spent 3 hours under the truck getting all the lines plumbed onto the valve with no room for comfort. (Probably should have done this while the engine was out last year.) But I got it done and it works great.
 

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blitz10

New member
29
1
0
Location
Abilene Texas
Installed a coolant filter on my M923A2. I also changed the fuel line from the filter to injection pump. The rubber hose looked good, but I had read on the forum that if it even had dust on it to change it out. My truck was hard to start and loosing prime. Now fires off immediately after sitting for a week.
 

MyothersanM1

19K M1 Armor Crewman
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,957
418
68
Location
Culver City, CA
Got part 2 of the hand air brake installed. Cleaned out the valve and replaced all the Teflon tape. Then spent 3 hours under the truck getting all the lines plumbed onto the valve with no room for comfort. (Probably should have done this while the engine was out last year.) But I got it done and it works great.
AHHHH! Those copper air lines! The horror! :mad:....:wink:
 

AMGeneral

Well-known member
2,301
115
63
Location
Connelly Springs, NC
I used my M62A1 to lift the front end of my Mack R685St dump truck up in the air to add oak cribbing under the front tires.

This will add extra height to aid in pulling the TRDXL-1070 trans for some input shaft/ clutch work.

No pictures, working by myself again.
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,653
1,669
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
Hawker 6T AGMs.. Holy mother of god.. now I know why It's taken me 6 months to pull the batteries out of my M934 to charge/test/dispose of..... What are they, like 100lbs a piece? EDIT: YUP! Just looked up the specs! Weight: 88 lbs. (40kg)

I may have to rethink my idea of 2 8ds.. LOL

In other news, I found out that a few of my battery connectors weren't crimped properly... Thanks Red River!..... I'm gonna be finding out which batteries are bad, getting new ones if need ( most likely) then putting in a battery shutoff...
 
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therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
I've heard nothing but pain from Red River rebuilds. I don't have one, and no axe to grind, but I used to see people actively seek out Red River rebuilds. Am I just seeing the bad news, or are these ones to avoid?

And for those doing the battery crimps, BUY NEW ONES!!! The draw it takes will melt those things if not perfectly crimped and level (ask me how I know). I got the new ones, and check them on each startup (hey isn't that what the stencil says?)
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
I use the hammer crimp tool, works great! The big pliers that the local parts store has I've not been thrilled with what I've seen come out of it, and they're new.

And no I'm not being sarcastic there is actually a tool that you put the crimp in and beat the anvil to seat the crimp.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Rmtaunton

Well-known member
1,510
31
48
Location
Smyrna, ga
It is so easy to solder ends on just put the end in a vice , heat and fill with solder about 3/4 up, push stripped wire on hold for three seconds and done

Oh also slightly heat the wire


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,653
1,669
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
I use the hammer crimp tool, works great! The big pliers that the local parts store has I've not been thrilled with what I've seen come out of it, and they're new.

And no I'm not being sarcastic there is actually a tool that you put the crimp in and beat the anvil to seat the crimp.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have one.. :D
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,653
1,669
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
It is so easy to solder ends on just put the end in a vice , heat and fill with solder about 3/4 up, push stripped wire on hold for three seconds and done

Oh also slightly heat the wire


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You want to tin the wire first if you're doing that... Also, do NOT use plumbing solder..
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,989
4,532
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
I use the hammer crimp tool, works great! The big pliers that the local parts store has I've not been thrilled with what I've seen come out of it, and they're new.

And no I'm not being sarcastic there is actually a tool that you put the crimp in and beat the anvil to seat the crimp.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
You want to tin the wire first if you're doing that... Also, do NOT use plumbing solder..
What's the story there, is the conductivity not good?
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
Can you maybe give us a pic, please?
20170331_164550-2241x3984.jpg
The tool at the parts store doesn't crimp it tight enough, I have seen ones just done pull out.

Soldering it would be great if I had a torch with me in the field or had enough room that I could hold it in that position while it cooled.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,989
4,532
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
That thing is SOLID.

When you need it, that's the one.

Sure would be nice if AutoZone had them for lending, because how many times are you going to need it, right?
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
326
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Electrical solder is rosin core flux. Plumbing solder is acid core flux. Soldering is the way to go with these and very easy to do. Instructions above are correct. But you need to hold the torch on until you see the solder wick up the wire strands. It is very difficult, almost impossible, so heat heavy gauge fine strand welding cable with a torch enough to solder directly, as it shed heat too quickly. But once in the liquid solder, keep the solder pool hot and it will wick up.

Those hammer crimp anvils are for Vikings stuck on the side of the road.
 
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