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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

big block 88

big block 88

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Trying to work on the 923 alt conversion but my laptop is dead with the tm's on it. So i need bailed out here fellas. I have 4 wires off the old generator 566 568 5 NEG. If I remember correctly i just need the neg to negative of course and 5 to positive. 566 i think is starter protection and i cant remember 568 off the top of my head but i think its just a signal wire for the alt.

Which ones do i need is 568 needed? 5 is obviously my positve and neg is my negative im assuming.
 
74M35A2

74M35A2

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Stock alt has 4 wires. Pos, Neg, battery voltage sense (for alt regulator), and AC voltage feedback wire to PCB to indicate truck is running and prevent a second engagement of the starter (this is not used in all PCB boxes, just "smart" ones that have a small circuit board inside of them).

So, it depends on what alternator you are installing. Sorry, I did not trace it down to wire #'s. 2 are larger, 2 are smaller. Loss of battery sense is what can cause the alternators to go full field and over-volt, and wipe out the ABS module, CTIS module, etc....

On modern alternators, battery sense is optional and not required, alternator will default to alternator B+ stud for reference. Ign feed wire to "turn on" older alternators may be required. Most of todays alts are single wire plug and play. Automotive ones give feedback of duty cycle % to the ECU so it can do an anticipatory throttle bump up so your tach does not drop when you hold the power window switch down and try to melt the window motors.

#568 is battery voltage sense, fed through the ignition switch. This signal is dropped when the engine is stopped in incorrect switch shut down order. With this loss, the alternator thinks the batteries are dead, and the alternator goes full tilt. This is why the over-volt thing happens on these trucks with a crap system design. Civilian stuff excels in this area. If you are using a stock alternator, it will be needed. If you are using a civilian alternator, you can disregard it, unless you are using some antiquated Delco 10Si or something.
 
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simp5782

simp5782

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big block 88 said:
You be the man.... man...
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I just ran a 4 gauge wire to the batteries directly since it isn't that far down that frame rail. and ran a ground to the oil cooler housing right above the alternator. That stock harness the ground is right there below the alternator under the frame. I would clean it up good. it is a crud collector if you plan to keep it.
 
8madjack

8madjack

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Swamp Donkey said:
Where did you add the antifreeze to the system? Before or after the dryer? Dessicant and antifreeze don't get along at all. Anything added to the system should be done after the dryer.

I've had my PURest dryer on the truck for 3 years now and just swapped it for another one 2 weeks ago. The purge valve was still closing but wasn't quite sealing completely. I left it on there as long as I did to get a gauge of how long it takes before they start giving problems. The main thin I want to see though is the trash that it has caught from the compressor. The dryer doesn't only remove water. It also catches carbon and other trash from the compressor. I'll probably tear into it this week and see what it looks like inside, then throw a rebuild kit in it. I don't expect to find much in there as the dryer portion was still working perfectly. I've never had moisture at the drain valves with that dryer on there. It got a real workout at the rally when we swapped Coffey's tires around and still didn't let any moisture pass.

Don't let my 3 year service period become proof of anything though. It's more of a sampling period. I want to see what my compressor has been putting out for the last 3 years.
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Why I love this site, I learn so much. You can only read and remember so much of the TMs. I hear an air leak when I shut down the truck, it makes great pressure and has no problem running, but doesn't hold overnight. I'm going to check that drier and valve as soon as I get a chance.
 
big block 88

big block 88

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Roger that thanks Wes. Im kinda layed up with this knee trying to pick a way at things i can reach from ground level. I ended up watching some of your vids again. With the way im fighting this a/c "kit" install im starting to think your route would have been easier. But maybe things will start goong together better soon for us lol.
 
simp5782

simp5782

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big block 88 said:
Roger that thanks Wes. Im kinda layed up with this knee trying to pick a way at things i can reach from ground level. I ended up watching some of your vids again. With the way im fighting this a/c "kit" install im starting to think your route would have been easier. But maybe things will start goong together better soon for us lol.
Click to expand...

Mine has blown down to 37 degrees with it being 95 outside. It is pretty nice. I figured taking multiple units and making them into 1 would work best and the cheapest. Everyone else's AC kits were just too high. Considering I can make the engine bracket for it easy enough. What I found was best was mounting the unit high in the cab. The cool air and even the heat blowing out of the box down keeps the hot and cold air from rising in the cab.
 
simp5782

simp5782

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Replaced my crank seal. Put a new waterpump belt on. Hot pressure washed and degreased the engine. Changed my oil and bypass filter.

Installed window holders. My passengers side doesnt like to seal very well so i used a 3/4" x 3/4" piece of aluminum and fit it snug into the exsisting channel. Drilled a 7/64 hole and used #4 machine screws in the upper corner. Doesn't move or try to pivot to one side. I need to carry the glass to get it replaced and tinted this week too. This angle sits snug in the exsisting channel and still allows the window to go up and down.


Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
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Buffalobwana

Buffalobwana

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simp5782 said:
Replaced my crank seal. Put a new waterpump belt on. Hot pressure washed and degreased the engine. Changed my oil and bypass filter.

Installed window holders. My passengers side doesnt like to seal very well so i used a 3/4" x 3/4" piece of aluminum and fit it snug into the exsisting channel. Drilled a 7/64 hole and used #4 machine screws in the upper corner. Doesn't move or try to pivot to one side. I need to carry the glass to get it replaced and tinted this week too. This angle sits snug in the exsisting channel and still allows the window to go up and down.


Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
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I don’t know how you are able to drive the miles you drive and still do the work you do on top of it.

I miss being young young and having energy like that! Sounds like a good solution. You could just epoxy it in place, paint it green and nobody would know the difference.

Do you find tinting makes a difference with keeping it cooler?
 
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gottaluvit

gottaluvit

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I drove mine for the first time on the interstate (I-70) for any distance more than one or two exits. (I had always taken back roads, even to Findlay twice.) It was right at 200 miles round trip. She purred along at 55 pulling an M1082 trailer, loaded with 1500 lbs. on the return trip. I realize that is a very light load for these trucks (however, with a good bit of wind resistance from the covered trailer) but I was still quite happy with how it ran, even on the slopes east of Muskingum County. The air dryer purge valve worked flawlessly.
 
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