• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I put my method of dealing with this problem on the Deuce thread where the OP originally posted (didn't see he duplicated the post).

I have had several trucks with the unloader stuck open, making it unable to build pressure.

Wes, remember that the unloader is pushing a plunger that keeps the intake side open. This problem is not caused by the pressure coming from the control, it's happening because the debris and water this line seems to accumulate and cause that plunger to not retract and let the valve close. Having air on that unloader really doesn't matter...it's stuck in place (open) by water and debris. All of my trucks eventually loosen up with air tool oil (Marvel Mystery Oil). Fasttruck is not wrong... but a better cleaning and some time soaking with oil is the OP best bet in my opinion.

I agree with 74M35A2....pump air into the emergency glad hand to release the brakes and tow or drive it to safety above water. One charge of air should let you move it and will give about 4-5 times having brakes function before you have low air again. Don't use brakes if you don't have to.
 
Last edited:

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,131
9,415
113
Location
Mason, TN
I put my method of dealing with this problem on the Deuce thread where the OP originally posted (didn't see he duplicated the post).

I have had several trucks with the unloader stuck open, making it unable to build pressure.

Wes, remember that the unloader is pushing a plunger that keeps the intake side open. This problem is not caused by the pressure coming from the control, it's happening because the debris and water this line seems to accumulate and cause that plunger to not retract and let the valve close. Having air on that unloader really doesn't matter...it's stuck in place (open) by water and debris. All of my trucks eventually loosen up with air tool oil (Marvel Mystery Oil). Fasttruck is not wrong... but a better cleaning and some time soaking with oil is the OP best bet in my opinion.

I agree with 74M35A2....pump air into the emergency glad hand to release the brakes and tow or drive it to safety above water. One charge of air should let you move it and will give about 4-5 times having brakes function before you have low air again. Don't use brakes if you don't have to.
This is why you pull the discharge line off the compressor. No air. You have narrowed down your diagnosis. I mentioned to report back If this was the case. If you have air pressure you are looking some where else. The governor can't be forcing the unloader down since it has to have air to do this. If there is no air pressure building and there is not even enough air pressure for the governor to even be activated then it eliminates the need to look at it in the diagnostic procedure.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I only suggest cleaning the control because on mine, there has always been a lot of water and debris in it and it is the source for debris in the unloader.

Yes, agree that it takes pressure to make the unloader operate but at some point, when it does, that plunger can stick down and not return to closed. Soaking with oil has worked on the ones I have had problems with, although the real solution is to do a removal, clean and lube rebuild.

The way to verify is heat. If the compressor is making pressure, not releasing it back to the intake, the output will be too hot to touch. If the unloader is sticking open, it won't build pressure and that output flange is not too hot to touch.

I make high security jail locks using pneumatics and had to put in line filters because of the pilot operated valves. This line may be a very good place to have a disposable filter (about $10) because it seems to collect a lot of debris in it.
 
Last edited:

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
334
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Where?

Ha ha. Looks good bro. What did you use? I’m liking the glossier finish, that stays. Mine was the Rapco, but dulled / flakes pretty quick after. I think the Behr that a lot off folks use retains the gloss better? I need to research posts and respray. Too bad you are like 9 states away, you could have done mine and trailer as well !!!
 

Buffalobwana

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,394
178
63
Location
Frisco Texas
Where?
Ha ha. Looks good bro. What did you use? I’m liking the glossier finish, that stays. Mine was the Rapco, but dulled / flakes pretty quick after. I think the Behr that a lot off folks use retains the gloss better? I need to research posts and respray. Too bad you are like 9 states away, you could have done mine and trailer as well !!!
Behr Premium, exterior, latex enamel - Satin finish. If only we were closer, I could have painted your trailer, your truck, replaced the window and put an engine in it for you!

I used an airless sprayer for the green. I could not get it to spray low enough. I was getting drips. If you were painting an entire truck one color, the airless is the way to go. You would be done in no time.

So, I used an HVLP sprayer for the brown and black. Worked well.

Thx for the compliments.
 

Buffalobwana

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,394
178
63
Location
Frisco Texas
Yeah I know. It’s bugged me. I have one green wheel, 5 black ones. I’m debating on the color and finish. Black? Green? Flat? Satin?

So many choices.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,292
1,779
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Same finish as the truck I would think.

Black is original of course, but I’ve seen 5 tons with green wheels and they looked good too.
When I had my two 5 tons, they were all original with black wheels.
Exception was my M925A2 spare tire had a brand new green wheel.
 

cnichols

New member
4
0
1
Location
Greenwell Springs, LA
I appreciate everyone’s help!!! After calming down a little from aggravation spent some more time and found the gasket on the head of the compressor was leaking from the rear. I got it replaced and it builds pressure quicker than it ever has. On top of that the weather men overestimated the rain and river stages by 20”+ so thankfully we didn’t have the problems we expected.

But the incident defiantly re lit my passion and we’re about to start on a bunch of other projects on the truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Buffalobwana

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,394
178
63
Location
Frisco Texas
What prep did you do prior to spraying paint on it? The prior CARC in the photos looked to be in good condition (and of course your paint job looks spectacular).M923
Thanks Al. Prep was just to power wash it. Pick a few spots of peeling CARC off it and paint. I have found the surface to be so rough that it accepts the paint easily. The bare metal holds the paint just as well.

A couple years ago, I did a test. I had a sheet of 16 ga that was “clean”. I didn’t clean it, it just came from the yard in good condition. I painted a 2’x2’ section of the steel without prep, with the same Behr latex. I suspected the paint would peel or at least be easy to scrape off.

Nope. Stuck like epoxy to bare, unnprepped metal. I was sold.

That doesn't mean you can get away with shoddy prep. I had some peel on an 1101 where I missed some oily spots.

I painted another 923 in 2016. It still looks great. No issues at all.
 

US6x4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,239
2,277
113
Location
Wenatchee, WA
I finally got the dual fuel mod done on my NHC-250.
20190718_165757.jpg


As promised by others who have gone before me, that stubborn pipe plug was a royal pain. It took an entire day to remove. After stripping through 3 allen bits, 2 torx bits, 3 easy-out extractors, and after drilling a 1/2" access hole in the firewall this is all that was left of the plug by the time it started moving...
20190713_163109.jpg

Since I had drilled straight through the plug and it would no longer hold in fuel I had to start thinking about pulling the head to get it finished, but right as I was about to give up and start my preparations for Hari-Kari it finally grabbed and started turning -whew!
 

Spyderman

Active member
393
37
28
Location
Alexandria KY
Today I got my M989A1 from Utah. Had it shipped. I want to thank Gunzy for pulling it off the base for me so my shipper could pick it up. I can wait to put my S250 shelter on it and get it ready for camping.


Sent from my webslinger using Tapatalk
 

Spyderman

Active member
393
37
28
Location
Alexandria KY
That's a great set-up.

Where are you planning on going?
Knob Creek will be the first place. We will have quite the setup. My M923A1 pulling the M989A1 with my S250 shelter on it. My buddy will have his with his M989 trailer with his S280 shelter in it. I will set up my GP medium tent and another friend will bring his MKT kitchen. We have a bonfire every night and are there for a week. So if anyone wants to join us come on down. Let me know so I can save you some space. I go down the week before and rope it off and take my zero turn mower down and finish mow it.

Sent from my webslinger using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks