What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

[RenegadeActual]

Headgaskets

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Side note: DON'T use 'CLEAR CC' - only 'CLEAR CA'... Apparently 'CLEAR CC' clears the calibration.... and you have to reprogram it. Luckily, mine came with a programming table sheet. I'll have to take a pic of that and upload it.

Also, ABS light was still on.

Apparently, it just needed to be driven.

I moved it about 200ft..Turned it off.

Went to move it about 20 mins later, and power switch on and *clicclicclick...clacclacclack*......... *click*..... ABS light off...

I'm guessing you're supposed to go into test mode and rotate the tires to test the sensors, since the test is outlined in the manual... But it doesn't say it's mandatory. I'm guessing it is, though.

 

[msgjd]

Where? Everything I found was metric,the biggest 10mm

For decades I have been using a short old rusty 1/2" extension that I ground the rounded tip down until it was squared .. It was a very early ratchet tool thus it had near-sharp corners, it was not chamfered like modern tools

 

[msgjd]

spent afternoon pulling, cleaning, lubricating, and testing the transfer case sprag cylinder and tranny poppet valve on one of the 818's while tranny was down out of the way ... Then in went the new TO bearing, press plate, repacked the grease cups etc, hoisted tranny back in place and got the bolts tightened.. Dark set in and no mosquitoes heard, seen, or felt.. That's one good thing about fall ... Tomorrow it will be clutch adjustment, getting the driveshafts and air lines hooked up etc , pre-trip, and road test .. Just in time to get mothballed and parked for winter

 

[Wreckclues]

Solved one problem, created another.
But first solved my hesitation on acceleration and hard start by replacing the spin on kit I cobbled together with the original canister rig.
Was experiencing a loss of power in acceleration, thought it might be a clogged filter giving me the opportunity to compare contrast my spin on rig with the original rig.
Ordered a new filter from Big Mikes, replaced all the O-rings, cleaned all the mating surfaces. Purchased a new fuel line. Found an aberration in the lip of the canister and a break in the receiver casting, both repaired with a little RTF. Used my battery powered transfer pump to pull fuel through the filter, saving my starter a whole lot of work. I use a clear plastic hose on the return side of the pump, found that if the fuel is mostly frothy, I'll have no prime and it's time to check the mating surfaces, if the return is mostly fuel, then I have prime. Now the truck cold starts on the first pull with no hesitation on acceleration. Also idles out faster with no throttle.
Figure the spin on filters may have restricted flow or my Frankenstein's monster receiver was losing prime.
Now for the new problem. Topped off my Tranny and Transfer case with 80-90 GL-4 before knowing the what the hell GL meant.
Found whatever was in the tranny and transfer case does not mix well with GL-4. Truck starts out OK, whether in Hi or Lo, shifts through the gears, then loses power. Have to creep home in first and I do mean CREEP! Cant get going fast enough to shift, accept going downhill, but with no power in any gear other than first.
Realize I have to flush both units, but can't find ANY 80-90 GL-1.
Tractor Supply and NAPA have GL-1 90W? So I guess High Temp Viscosity is better than nothing?
Does anyone have a source for 80-90 GL-1 Gear Oil?

 

[US6x4]

The government standardized on the gear oil for logistical reasons (so I've read), but IIRC Spicer recommended a 50 wt gear train oil for that transmission and guys have had good performance using that type of oil instead.

Someday I'll put in some Lucas or Schaeffers 50 wt geartrain oil for tranny & t-case

 

[TechnoWeenie]

For decades I have been using a short old rusty 1/2" extension that I ground the rounded tip down until it was squared .. It was a very early ratchet tool thus it had near-sharp corners, it was not chamfered like modern tools

Found them!

'Pipe plug socket'

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F64XLCW

 

[Wreckclues]

The government standardized on the gear oil for logistical reasons (so I've read), but IIRC Spicer recommended a 50 wt gear train oil for that transmission and guys have had good performance using that type of oil instead.

Found this data sheet at O'Reilly's, but more specifically under Applications.
" O’Reilly GL-1 Gear Oil is designed for use in manual transmissions and transfer cases in on highway trucks and off-highway equipment, which require an API GL-1 gear lubricant. It may also find use in industrial gear oil applications that call for a straight mineral oil in the SAE 50 engine oil or SAE 90 viscosity weight range. (The SAE 50 engine oil viscosity grade is approximately equal to the SAE 90 gear oil viscosity grade)".
Would this work?

 

[msgjd]

Found whatever was in the tranny and transfer case does not mix well with GL-4.

as you found out or read in the forums, we can't use GL4 in these trucks due to the yellow metal in them and the sulphur content of certain gear lubes like GL4. I never needed to add any gear oil to your truck and don't know what the town hwy dept may have put in it beforehand .. I hope it was something listed on the Lube data plate on the dash

 

[kendelrio]

I'm in the process of changing out torque rod bushings, and I have to say, this tool from Big Mike's makes ALL the difference when pressing them out/in.



And while I wait for some more stuff to come in, I went ahead and stenciled Berthas registration on her so it can be seen more clearly by any LEO that cares to know...

 

[Valley Rock]

@kendelrio

Hey maybe you could make a little video of you using that tool in action and post it up so we can check it out

 

[Steelhorse]

Today I made up this template for a dash switch panel I'll be cutting out of some left over diamond plate from an old truck box. I'll paint it in 383 before its mounted.

 

[Wreckclues]

as you found out or read in the forums, we can't use GL4 in these trucks due to the yellow metal in them and the sulphur content of certain gear lubes like GL4.

Not so much worried about the yellow metal issue. From one SS post I heard GL-4 had half the sulfur content as GL-5 and from another that the newer GL-4 and 5 were yellow metal compatible. The GL-4 I topped off the Trans with did not smell of sulfur.
There was something else about mixing GL-4 with GL-1 concerning the slipperyness of the GL-4 and what it does to entrained solids in GL-1. Can't find the source. In any case I'll be draining the Trans first and refilling with GL-1 90W.
Is it safe to flush the transmission with diesel?

 

[kendelrio]

@kendelrio

Hey maybe you could make a little video of you using that tool in action and post it up so we can check it out

Will do. I'll be using it tomorrow after my new bushing gets here.

 

[kendelrio]

@kendelrio

Hey maybe you could make a little video of you using that tool in action and post it up so we can check it out

Ok, not a video, but I took pics.

Pressing out the old bushing note the plate on top to protect the grooves for the retaining plate on the new bushing:





Literally flip it over and line up your retaining plate:





And all seated... it took longer to align everything than press it:




I also finished the stencils on the back of the truck..





And after some paint touchup, my chief mechanic added the final touch to the front bumper.

 

[Wreckclues]

Pressing out the old bushing

Looks great, what was the press out pressure?

 

[Mullaney]

Looks great, what was the press out pressure?

.
Back in the day, We used a 50 ton press for that job.

 

[kendelrio]

Looks great, what was the press out pressure?

It is a 4k press, and it didn't "max" out, ya know?

 

[hgun]

They arrived at the trucking company now just need to get them home 10 miles away then let the winter project begin lol

 

[hgun]

Hey guys question I read the TM on this part, But it dosent specify. Wheel cap nuts it says 450-500lb ok then second wheel and lock nuts but can’t find that torque spec im assuming 450-500. Am I correct