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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
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Inspected rear wheel bearings and brakes
Changed rear differential oil

Still to do-

New flexplate
Change front diff oil
New tires
New kingpin bushings
New Steering stabilizer
Transmission vacuum lines
Transmission fluid change
Transmission filter change
Dash lights work
Fuel filter change
Power steering filter?
 

Skinny

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Put new o-ring's on the throttle shaft in the pump. Have not put intake back on yet.:beer:
Mine is leaking and I am debating on whether to just put a brand new pump in for piece of mind or replace the shaft seals. How hard was the job to disassemble the pump?
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Laramie County, Wyoming
Just pulled the M1009 into the barn for the final go over for the Armed Forces Day display. I've got to straighten the front bumper, get the excess fuel filter manifold wiring under control (got rid of the box filter but keeping the wiring). paint the body, install the CB radio/antenna, remove the seats (or at least unbolt them) so I can remove the floor matting. Fix whatever problems that show up from that, install rear view mirror on the winshield and test the trailer wiring connector (had to completely rewire the truck side harness). Had to order a complete nose to tail wire harness and lights for the trailer so have to make sure the truck side will match up the trailer harness. Check fluids, and anyother nit noid that pops up to e fixed. 15 days to go.

Update: paint found. had to go three places to get my particular Choice (Krylon Ultra Flat camoflage olive, black and brown. Rustoleum ultra flat brown looks ok as a sub)
 
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epitts

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Mine is leaking and I am debating on whether to just put a brand new pump in for piece of mind or replace the shaft seals. How hard was the job to disassemble the pump?
I had a friend do it for me who works on pumps but after seeing him do it, I think I could have done it my self. If you look at the Manuals you will see how it can be done. Pull the intake and pull the top cover off of pump, you will need to pull the transmission vacuum shift on side. Under it is a lever with a roll pin, mark the location and drive pin out. Loosen set screw, un hook throttle on other side a slide shaft out. Replace the two small oring, lube the shaft with a good grease and reassemble pump. I hope this helps.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Portsmouth, NH
I had a friend do it for me who works on pumps but after seeing him do it, I think I could have done it my self. If you look at the Manuals you will see how it can be done. Pull the intake and pull the top cover off of pump, you will need to pull the transmission vacuum shift on side. Under it is a lever with a roll pin, mark the location and drive pin out. Loosen set screw, un hook throttle on other side a slide shaft out. Replace the two small oring, lube the shaft with a good grease and reassemble pump. I hope this helps.
Sounds like a little precision involved but better than having to remove the pump. Thanks for shining some light on this. I will tackle that job by myself and save a few hundred dollars. Anyone have a recommendation for ordering Stanadyne DB2 parts other than a GM dealer?
 

epitts

Member
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Terre Haute, Indiana
Sounds like a little precision involved but better than having to remove the pump. Thanks for shining some light on this. I will tackle that job by myself and save a few hundred dollars. Anyone have a recommendation for ordering Stanadyne DB2 parts other than a GM dealer?
Asfor the cover it's like when you turn the pump up.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
My truck has 6700 miles on the odometer and 5 hours on the generator hobbs meter. I believe it. Everything on the truck is clean and tight. If it had 106,700 miles, you would pull the shifter down and guess what gear it's in.

I'm figuring since the truck has such little usage, the throttle shaft o-rings are leaking and hoping the bushings are still OK just from having little mileage on them.

When I drove the truck from my house to the shop, it had absolutely no smoke. Hot cold, idle, wot...no smoke. Should I be turning up the pump say an eight or quarter turn while doing this job or should I just leave well enough alone? Not looking to crank up an already gutless 6.2 but if I can squeeze a bit more out of the pump, why not.
 

epitts

Member
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Location
Terre Haute, Indiana
I'm figuring since the truck has such little usage, the throttle shaft o-rings are leaking and hoping the bushings are still OK just from having little mileage on them..
My truck had 82500 miles on it but the pump had been upgraded. It still had the old o-ring's and crumbled when we took them off, they are brown in color. The new o-rings are green in color. I did not turn the pump up, it runs just fine.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
From I've been reading, a quarter turn is too much unless you have a wind maker under the hood. I will probably just leave the screw alone. I will just replace the o-rings.

Any other words of wisdom? Does the top cover require a gasket or is it RTV? I want to make sure I get whatever service parts there are before tearing it open. Not to many 6.2 parts on the warehouse shelfs anymore.
 

epitts

Member
500
1
18
Location
Terre Haute, Indiana
From I've been reading, a quarter turn is too much unless you have a wind maker under the hood. I will probably just leave the screw alone. I will just replace the o-rings. Does the top cover require a gasket or is it RTV?
I bought a overhaul kit off GL it had the seal kit P/N 30405 which had all needed seals and o-rings. The top cover does use a gasket and is in the kit. But are not known to leak. If it leaks after being put back together the cover is easy to get to. For a kit try here 30405 - Fuel Systems - Diesel Engine Parts - Commercial Truck Parts | Heavy Duty Truck Parts - Highway and Heavy Parts kit also has the new roll pin in it. Another kit number is 24370 and can be found on ebay. It will have seal for complete rebuild.
 
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