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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1
- Thread starter DXTAC
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cpf240
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Umm, silly question... why do you want a shift indicator with a broken needle? And if it is really that important, why not just break the one you have and save the trip to the bone yard?
CycleJay
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Howard,
I was thinking, since you like taking instrument panels so much.
Why do'nt you come down to Marietta some time, and help me with mine? LOL
Or better yet, just wait until IF you are ever in my area..
I'd pay ya a decent amount in money, beer, pizza, etc... lol
When I get work done on my truck that I do not do myself for some reason.
I do not expect to get it for free, and I am NOT opposed to paying for it.
Also, IF someone else works on my truck, I am NOT opposed to helping of course,
because it helps me learn in the process...
Just my $0.02 cents...
I was thinking, since you like taking instrument panels so much.
Why do'nt you come down to Marietta some time, and help me with mine? LOL
Or better yet, just wait until IF you are ever in my area..
I'd pay ya a decent amount in money, beer, pizza, etc... lol
When I get work done on my truck that I do not do myself for some reason.
I do not expect to get it for free, and I am NOT opposed to paying for it.
Also, IF someone else works on my truck, I am NOT opposed to helping of course,
because it helps me learn in the process...
Just my $0.02 cents...
Last edited:
1ton cucv k5 turbo
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CycleJay... run bring it on up to my place... We will get to it... lol and have half a gallon of apple pie... for municipal purposes of coarse... lol![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
im currently in the mists of finishing up a new 3 1/2" exhaust system donated from my duramax... and completing my transfercase crossmemeber/ rock skid plate...
im currently in the mists of finishing up a new 3 1/2" exhaust system donated from my duramax... and completing my transfercase crossmemeber/ rock skid plate...
mdiver
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Actually we always pay for it in one way or another.. oppps sorry you were talking about something else
CycleJay
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Hello 1ton,
Thank you for the offer... Perhaps I will take you up on it some time...
But sounds like you have your hands full now.
By the way, a half gallon of apple pie? what do you mean?
Good night,
Thank you for the offer... Perhaps I will take you up on it some time...
But sounds like you have your hands full now.
By the way, a half gallon of apple pie? what do you mean?
Good night,
CycleJay
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Mdiver,
LOL... Yes.. I was speaking about parts/repairs to my M1009... LOL.
Not paying or not paying for what I think you are thinking about... LOL
Good one though...
LOL... Yes.. I was speaking about parts/repairs to my M1009... LOL.
Not paying or not paying for what I think you are thinking about... LOL
Good one though...
apple pie moonshine. I'd consider the offer if you happen to have a spare floor pan laying around. I cant find that thing anywhere. Only repair panels, and my floor is way past repair panels.
CycleJay
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Hello Howard,
I have never heard of apple pie moonshine..
I do not have any floor pans myself, but I need one for the front drivers area
of my M1009, it is not THAT bad, but I would like to repair/replace it before
lining the floor with rhino/linex, etc.. of course.
I have never heard of apple pie moonshine..
I do not have any floor pans myself, but I need one for the front drivers area
of my M1009, it is not THAT bad, but I would like to repair/replace it before
lining the floor with rhino/linex, etc.. of course.
scottladdy
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Just replaced the brake lines in my 1985 M1008 with stainless pre-bent ones from Inline Tube. High quality product. Shipped fast. Some finnagling required on the master cylinder lines, but not too much effort to get them to clear the brake boost hoses. They look nicer then the originals. Even though the old lines looked OK where you could see them, I am glad I changed them. There was an area obscured by one of the bed mounts that was loaded with external scale. I don't want to think how little tube wall was left in that area.
Suggestion for replacing passenger side line. Apply your parking brake, and chock at least 2 wheels. Remove the right side motor mount nut and retract bolt enough to allow the engine to be lifted, as if you were replacing the motor mount. Place a sturdy non-hydraulic jack under the oil pan. I used a scissor jack from a 2005 Honda CR-V. Hydraulic jacks can fail too easily. Jack up the engine on the right side placing a 2x4 or two (2x6 is better) to spread the load out on the pan. Lift the engine enough to allow the engine side to clear the frame side of the mount. Remove the two bump stops. Next remove the motor mount bracket from the right side frame. The entire bracket. Lastly, place a jack under the T-Case crossmember. Loosen the T-Case crossmember bolts on the left side, and remove the bolts from the right side. Lower the crossmember enough to allow the rear tube to be slid outside of the frame. This will allow you to more easily snake the old lines out and the new pre-bent tubes in.
Remember to keep the dust caps on the new tubes until you are ready to make the final connection.
Installation is the reverse order. Follow the torque specs. in the TM's when replacing the removed parts. Bleed using the procedure in the TM and you are all set.
Oh yeah, you might want to replace those worn out motor mounts while you are at it. Remember, 1983 Chevy K30 or K5 mounts, regardless of the year your CUCV was produced.
Now, go and
Suggestion for replacing passenger side line. Apply your parking brake, and chock at least 2 wheels. Remove the right side motor mount nut and retract bolt enough to allow the engine to be lifted, as if you were replacing the motor mount. Place a sturdy non-hydraulic jack under the oil pan. I used a scissor jack from a 2005 Honda CR-V. Hydraulic jacks can fail too easily. Jack up the engine on the right side placing a 2x4 or two (2x6 is better) to spread the load out on the pan. Lift the engine enough to allow the engine side to clear the frame side of the mount. Remove the two bump stops. Next remove the motor mount bracket from the right side frame. The entire bracket. Lastly, place a jack under the T-Case crossmember. Loosen the T-Case crossmember bolts on the left side, and remove the bolts from the right side. Lower the crossmember enough to allow the rear tube to be slid outside of the frame. This will allow you to more easily snake the old lines out and the new pre-bent tubes in.
Remember to keep the dust caps on the new tubes until you are ready to make the final connection.
Installation is the reverse order. Follow the torque specs. in the TM's when replacing the removed parts. Bleed using the procedure in the TM and you are all set.
Oh yeah, you might want to replace those worn out motor mounts while you are at it. Remember, 1983 Chevy K30 or K5 mounts, regardless of the year your CUCV was produced.
Now, go and
cpf240
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Installed the headlight relay kit from LMC. Its an ok set given the price. Way cheaper than the ones Summit sells. I'm sure the more expensive one is much better quality, but the budget doesn't stretch that far! I figure I can upgrade to Bosch relays in the future if need be.
One thing I don't like is that it was a bit shorter than I'd like in the run between headlights. I ran it following the factory harness, and think I'll re-run it along the underside of the top portion of the core support.
In the process I found a loose ground wire coming out of the main harness under the bumper on the left side. It was just swinging in the breeze and didn't seem to have a home. It was not the one for the blackout light. I have not taken anything apart in that area, so who knows how long it was disconnected. I used the mount for the horn noise filter as a ground point for the LMC harness on the left side, and so put the loose ground wire there as well.
Now if I can just figure out how to aim the headlights properly when my driveway is slopped and just big enough to fit the truck...
One thing I don't like is that it was a bit shorter than I'd like in the run between headlights. I ran it following the factory harness, and think I'll re-run it along the underside of the top portion of the core support.
In the process I found a loose ground wire coming out of the main harness under the bumper on the left side. It was just swinging in the breeze and didn't seem to have a home. It was not the one for the blackout light. I have not taken anything apart in that area, so who knows how long it was disconnected. I used the mount for the horn noise filter as a ground point for the LMC harness on the left side, and so put the loose ground wire there as well.
Now if I can just figure out how to aim the headlights properly when my driveway is slopped and just big enough to fit the truck...
mdiver
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A 4x8 sheet of wood might work or a bed sheet. Of course the vehicle should e on level ground
Small Prepper
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Did a resistor by-pass, Doghead starter relay install, and fuel filter replacement, air filter, clean all + and - on batteries, clean all + and - on fire wall blocks, added dielectric grease to all connections, and clean windows
Did all this taking my time in 3 hours
Next: will be starter bolts and starter electric conections.
Did all this taking my time in 3 hours
Next: will be starter bolts and starter electric conections.
MarcusOReallyus
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Find an empty commercial parking lot some fine evening. Industrial areas are usually pretty empty after dark, and flat windowless walls are easy to find.
If a cop stops by, the worst that will happen is he'll tell you to move along.
Been there, done that.
1ton cucv k5 turbo
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That is correct on the apple pie.. its... smoooth.... lol Anyways.... Im looking for some floor panels as well, as mine were .... uh....repaired in the past... but not with floor pan sheet metal... the floor by both doors (About 12" from door towards trans hump ) will have to be cut out and replaced..
unaffiliated
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MMMMMMMM Apple Pie Moonshine. Yummy. A customer of ours used to bring us some from Tennessee. I should call her up and place an order.
85CUCVtom
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Just picked up a new (to me at least) fuse box harness for the M1009. Also got the fuse kit from cucvelectric.com. I have a busy weekend ahead. Maybe an all night wrenching party?
erniemigi
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Replaced Heater Core, removed Bucket seats and installed Bench Seat
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CycleJay
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No offense, but...
Why would anyone put a bench seat in an M1009? lol
Why would anyone put a bench seat in an M1009? lol
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