What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

[twlinks]

The biggest part of the "forklift dent" will push back out. Just take your door panel off, reach in and start pushing.

 

[SandBar]

The biggest part of the "forklift dent" will push back out. Just take your door panel off, reach in and start pushing.

I used one of those harbor freight 6" suction cup things that never worked on my dodge but somehow worked great for this.

 

[twlinks]

I used one of those harbor freight 6" suction cup things that never worked on my dodge but somehow worked great for this.

Yeah, I even tried a "plumbers friend" suction cup...it would move the metal but not enough to get it to "pop" back out. I still had to use a fair amount of filler in that area after massaging it back into place.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

I stuck a scissor jack in the door, pushed most of it out, it was 10x worse before.

 

[Castle Bravo]

I just knee the door below the dent and it disappears - for a while.

 

[SRB1976]

Went 4 wheeling today

 

[bshupe]

I was able to complete my project of installing three across bucket seating in my 1031.

 

[Durango_USMC]

Looked at ordering a remanufactured alternator to replace my Gen2 so I can rebuild the original to keep as a spare. Part WIL90014277 if anyone has any experience.

 

[T. Highway]

Looked at ordering a remanufactured alternator to replace my Gen2 so I can rebuild the original to keep as a spare. Part WIL90014277 if anyone has any experience.

I would just rebuild the one you have and save the extra cash. I just rebuilt one of mine last weekend and it only took about 45 minutes. I'm sure that next time around it would only take 30 minutes. I got the parts form ASP and they shipped them the same day as ordered.

 

[Warthog]

Looked at ordering a remanufactured alternator to replace my Gen2 so I can rebuild the original to keep as a spare. Part WIL90014277 if anyone has any experience.

If you do get the Wilson, bring a multimeter with you to the parts house. Test to make sure it is truly built as an "isolated ground". Sometimes they are NOT rebuilt correctly.

you could always swap GEN1 with GEN2 and then install a civvy unit for GEN1. Cost under $100 and you could get a lifetime warranty. (If you go this route, the civvy unit must stay in the GEN1 position)

 

[True Knight]

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?

I was able to complete my project of installing three across bucket seating in my 1031.

Very nice! What veh are the seats from?

 

[True Knight]

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?

Looked at ordering a remanufactured alternator to replace my Gen2 so I can rebuild the original to keep as a spare. Part WIL90014277 if anyone has any experience.

They are actually very easy to rebuild. CUCV electric has great (and free) rebuild instructions with pics on the web site. http://cucvelectric.com/altrrebuild.html

 

[Dirty1]

I was able to complete my project of installing three across bucket seating in my 1031.

I like this a lot! Could you supply extra information please?

 

[Durango_USMC]

Ordered the alternator rebuild kit. Will install promptly whenever it arrives.

Started cleaning the half dried oil clumps out of my engine compartment...I thinkit may have been leaking since '86 based on how much of that crud is stuck everywhere.

 

[bshupe]

Very nice! What veh are the seats from?

My truck is a 1031 that came with to me with two 1009 bucket seats and a big space in the middle for a radio stack. I really like the high-back seats and didnt want to toss them for a bench so I fished on here for a long time looking for another bucket in my area and got one a couple of months back. A buddy of mine helped me build a frame and we bolted it all in. Fits like it was made for it and its super comfy with the head rests.

 

[max1008]

Installed a cargo cover system. Truck already had holes and riv-nuts when I bought it. Had to do some adjusting for the rails but I still cant get the back door to close! Anyone have tips on aligning these things?

 

[edpdx]

After spending the last 2 weeks off and on working on a headlight harness, I finally got around to installing it. Holy smokes! I never realized just how much light I would gain from a dedicated harness. I used two headlight extenders, 2 relays, 2 fuse holders from aliexpress. The wire and connectors and loomage I had on hand. The whole thing cost around $14.

Make up the harness by looking over the schematics and comparing them to the LMC harness. Installation was pretty easy. I had to remove the bridge plate and grill just enough to cheat the new harness to the original headlight harness. The headlamp on the passenger side and both bezels had to come out and I monkey-armed the wiring behind the passenger side battery with out any real problem. Lots of shielded female connectors, some clam shell and butt splices and a ring for the power block near the under hood solenoid. I mounted the relays near the drivers side headlamp to save on wire.

If you haven't done this yet... do it, I just came in for a night test-drive. I still have to aim the headlamps; but they sure are throwing the beam.

 

[edpdx]

Installed a cargo cover system. Truck already had holes and riv-nuts when I bought it. Had to do some adjusting for the rails but I still cant get the back door to close! Anyone have tips on aligning these things?View attachment 426259View attachment 426260View attachment 426262

max1008, My M1008 did not come with any of the cargo cover. I had to source all of it from various sellers. The last part I installed was the rail on the tailgate. I had to fab the whole thing up. I bought a bunch of turn buttons and a piece of barstock. I marked the location of the buttons on the stock and installed them. Then I attached the curtain to the assembly and stretched the curtain taut, marking the location of the bar onto the tailgate. It's a great fit.

Your pics seem to show the curtain as too short to reach. Either move the bar on the tailgate higher- looks like you're maxed there though, or pull the lynch pins on the rearmost bow, telscoping it into itself will shorten the bow and allow you to button-up. Have a helper mark the the bow with a Sharpie as you you push the bow back upward fairly taut. Then holding at the mark, index through the outer bow's lynchpin holes and make a new hole on the inner section. The slack will be minimal and easily taken up- mostly, by the cinch straps at the corners.

If this is your first cargo cover... keep it cleaned and store it out of the elements if you don't use it during the winter or it will be hosed by spring.

 

[max1008]

Thanks for the tips. I temporarily put vise grips on the rear bow and slid the vice grip down until i could get the rear buttons attached. Now that the rear curtain is attached and the bow is shorter it is definatly looser on the sides. I guess it jus the way she goes. I do need to find/make some corner straps as i only have 1 left.

How rough will it get through the winter? I was hoping to use it for mtn trips to keep my stuff dry.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Don't expect the cover to keep contents completely dry. Sit stuff up off the floor. I had to install mine on a sunny day to stretch it out. I never did devolop a like for it and sold all my covers and installed a steel topper.