jdeoliveira74
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did rear seal on transfer case today easier then I thought it was going to be!
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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1
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100acre
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1st posting of cucv improvements of recent
I had to replace the starter after it froze up on me and subsequently burned out because like a fool there wasnt a single wrench in the truck to remove the battery cables so I could stop the flow of power to the starter. I sat there screaming bloody murder as I watched it smoke to death . I belive my ignition switch is bad. I went to advanced auto and bought a quick connect/disconnect i looks like a frankenstein throw switch. Ive seen other types too. So if the starter ever freezes up again i can run to the hood throw the switch and it stops sending juice to the starter but the engine continues to run. On my new starter it kept freezing up and wouldnt disengage so I tried removing the shim . that didnt work so I added an extra shim (2) alltogether, and she runs great. I still need to address the issues Im having with the column; no horn, bad ignition switch, not centered steering wheel and failure of left turn signal to cancel when turning wheel. I'm thinking of replacing the whole column with a K 30 column if I can find a used one. I also had replaced the doghead relay.NAPA part # 7-01860-1.
The starter I bought I got for $114.00 from Rare Electrical 866 695 0363 it is a brand new starter . No core fee and it is an import from Taiwan ugh nasty foul language. sorry. But she runs and now is a ship o the line and not just an anchor
I had to replace the starter after it froze up on me and subsequently burned out because like a fool there wasnt a single wrench in the truck to remove the battery cables so I could stop the flow of power to the starter. I sat there screaming bloody murder as I watched it smoke to death . I belive my ignition switch is bad. I went to advanced auto and bought a quick connect/disconnect i looks like a frankenstein throw switch. Ive seen other types too. So if the starter ever freezes up again i can run to the hood throw the switch and it stops sending juice to the starter but the engine continues to run. On my new starter it kept freezing up and wouldnt disengage so I tried removing the shim . that didnt work so I added an extra shim (2) alltogether, and she runs great. I still need to address the issues Im having with the column; no horn, bad ignition switch, not centered steering wheel and failure of left turn signal to cancel when turning wheel. I'm thinking of replacing the whole column with a K 30 column if I can find a used one. I also had replaced the doghead relay.NAPA part # 7-01860-1.
The starter I bought I got for $114.00 from Rare Electrical 866 695 0363 it is a brand new starter . No core fee and it is an import from Taiwan ugh nasty foul language. sorry. But she runs and now is a ship o the line and not just an anchor
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You don't want to open the ground wire on the front battery during a starter run-on due to a failed(stuck on) under-dash starter relay. Bad things will still happen.
Do the relay modification and you'll be all set.
Do the relay modification and you'll be all set.
100acre
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the relay mod was already done prior to my purchasing the truck. forgive my ignorance but what is the groundwire on the front battery? I did redo the dhead mod. when the run on occurred the key was off and out there was no way to cut power to the starter short of removing the battery cables which I didnt have a wrench for.
Chief_919
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Unless I am missing something, opening the ground on the front battery should kill all the power to the electrical system.
100acre
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????
Enginerd
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I didn't get the Doghead relay done today but I did get the front driveline seal done on the transfer case. So far that is the only fluid leak I have found since I got the rig. Doghead is next.
jdeoliveira74
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how hard is the front one. I just did my rear seal on the transfer case that was a breeze
Enginerd
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It took me a while to get the seal out of the housing was the only hard part. The rest was easy. I had to install a repair sleeve on my output and I filled the groove with JB Weld before I installed it. If you don't put a backing on it, the groove will simply show back up after a few miles on the sleeve. I pulled the transfer case skid plate off to get a little extra room. It helped. Other than removal of the seal, the rest was easy.
Enginerd
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I should have stated that the original seals were the rubber top ones and that is why they are harder to get out. The new seal would be easier to remove than the old one.
Enginerd
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Just for some info, the Timken seal number for the front output (front end) on an NP208 transfer case is a 3946 and the repair sleeve is a KWK99187.
Miah
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Haven't visited this one in a bit. Finally got a bit of cash/time so starting the repairs again.
all 4 hinge pins/bushings & new door striker bolts. Nice to have doors shut properly now.
all 4 hinge pins/bushings & new door striker bolts. Nice to have doors shut properly now.
wayne pick
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Windshield washer upgrade
I don't know if anyone has done this yet, I installed a dual pump windshield washer tank from a donor 2002 s10 blazer i've been stripping of parts. Here it is.On the blazer, Remove washer tank and clip back as much feed hose as you can. save the bolt. On M1031 Remove old washer tank and feed hose to wiper motor. Remove nozzle hoses from wiper motor housing. Place new tank between fender well and coolant recovery tank, Drill 3/16 hole in fender, use original bolt to attach tank, It will thred itself nicely. crimp and heat shrink one wire from each motor to 14ga wire. You will now have two wires. Run wires to the large two prong plug removed from wiper motor w spade terminals or get a matching plug set from parts store. Shove hard plastic hoses from tank into nozzle hoses. Fill tank w orange rainex. A big upgrade from the old lame pump setup.
I don't know if anyone has done this yet, I installed a dual pump windshield washer tank from a donor 2002 s10 blazer i've been stripping of parts. Here it is.On the blazer, Remove washer tank and clip back as much feed hose as you can. save the bolt. On M1031 Remove old washer tank and feed hose to wiper motor. Remove nozzle hoses from wiper motor housing. Place new tank between fender well and coolant recovery tank, Drill 3/16 hole in fender, use original bolt to attach tank, It will thred itself nicely. crimp and heat shrink one wire from each motor to 14ga wire. You will now have two wires. Run wires to the large two prong plug removed from wiper motor w spade terminals or get a matching plug set from parts store. Shove hard plastic hoses from tank into nozzle hoses. Fill tank w orange rainex. A big upgrade from the old lame pump setup.
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chief1983
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- Saint Charles, MO
That might be one of the most interesting mods I've ever heard of. Really wish I had kept some more parts from my totaled Sonoma now...
Extra props for mentioning Rainex fluid, that stuff is worth its weight in gold.
Extra props for mentioning Rainex fluid, that stuff is worth its weight in gold.
combatmech
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Changed my blackout lights over the weekend.
vinny-socom1
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I've been working on a couple of things but mostly the topper. The fiberglass was delaminating from the sun. Had to strip, sand & reseal/prime/gel coat paint & finally coat with bed liner.
I really need to work on a snorkel before February Rally..
Got alot of things on the to do list...
Vinny
I really need to work on a snorkel before February Rally..
Got alot of things on the to do list...
Vinny
firefirefire90
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you know, I can't get mine apart at all. They bolts in the back just keep spinning. Any tips?
chief1983
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Nutcracker?
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vice grips works sometimes, i had to cut mine.
Asmoday
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Straightened out steering wheel...Steering connector was loose on one end and this added some play as well as being about 70 degrees off. The truck steers perfectly straight and tight now. Torqued bots to spec...54nm
Checked starter bolts torque...Nice and tight!...45nm
Tightened transmission pan bolts...some were a little loose...wrist tight
Straightened out bent emergency brake cable guide bracket....now perfect.
Fixed 4wd dash light indicator...bad connection at transfer case...now working.
Inspected harmonic balancer...It's spinning nice and round and pulleys look good but I can see the rubber cracking. A new one is in the near future.
Removed 6 carriage bolts that were mounted through the trans tunnel. I don't know what the **** they were there for but I had been noticing some weird vibration noises since I picked up the truck Saturday. When I looked up underneath, two of the carriage bolts which were all way too long, were very close to the top of the transfer case. Within a 1/4". I suspected these have been hitting the transfer case while driving causing an odd vibration/noise. I had to grind the heads of 2 of them and punch them through but the other 4 came out with no problems. Pic is below...
It's probably a placebo effect but I swear the truck is quieter now...LOL.
Many more items to get to soon like the "ghost" in the Gen1 light. It glows really really dim once it goes out after starting the engine but items like the heater like to make it faintly glow brighter. I have no dash lights so it's very obvious in the O'dark thirty when I go in for my flight shift...LOL.
I see a alternator rebuild in the future...
Checked starter bolts torque...Nice and tight!...45nm
Tightened transmission pan bolts...some were a little loose...wrist tight
Straightened out bent emergency brake cable guide bracket....now perfect.
Fixed 4wd dash light indicator...bad connection at transfer case...now working.
Inspected harmonic balancer...It's spinning nice and round and pulleys look good but I can see the rubber cracking. A new one is in the near future.
Removed 6 carriage bolts that were mounted through the trans tunnel. I don't know what the **** they were there for but I had been noticing some weird vibration noises since I picked up the truck Saturday. When I looked up underneath, two of the carriage bolts which were all way too long, were very close to the top of the transfer case. Within a 1/4". I suspected these have been hitting the transfer case while driving causing an odd vibration/noise. I had to grind the heads of 2 of them and punch them through but the other 4 came out with no problems. Pic is below...
It's probably a placebo effect but I swear the truck is quieter now...LOL.
Many more items to get to soon like the "ghost" in the Gen1 light. It glows really really dim once it goes out after starting the engine but items like the heater like to make it faintly glow brighter. I have no dash lights so it's very obvious in the O'dark thirty when I go in for my flight shift...LOL.
I see a alternator rebuild in the future...
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