What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

[DrJekl]

Did you install the delay control box? If not, install it. if I remember right, I did not install the box and the engagement positions on the switch act screwy. Installed the box and the probelm is solved.

You can replace that turn signal arm and get rid of the cruise mess. You don't have cruise so no issues. $8 for a new one at Advance or $35 for the same thing at LMC truck.

Put a tilt steering wheel in the 1009 today, went pretty good. Everything works except the washer fluid pump. The new column I got has wiper delay and cruise so that might have something to do with it. If I can't trace it down I'll put the old switch back in it. And I'll do some reading here and see if I can run across something about it.

 

[camp9]

Did you install the delay control box? If not, install it. if I remember right, I did not install the box and the engagement positions on the switch act screwy. Installed the box and the probelm is solved.

You can replace that turn signal arm and get rid of the cruise mess. You don't have cruise so no issues. $8 for a new one at Advance or $35 for the same thing at LMC truck.

Thanks much. I was just reading on another old thread about the control box, and nope had no idea I needed it. It must plug into one of the wires I reconnected? I'll probably find a pic on here showing it.

 

[DrJekl]

No worries. That box is your problem then. It just goes between your column harness and the cab harness. You will note two extra wires on the column harness side but the same number of contacts as your cab on the cab harness side.

I do not remember but you may be able to use your CUCV signal arm. There are some slight differences in them and I just do not remember if that is a 100% true statement. You can use the one you have but then you will have the little cruise button there.

Thanks much. I was just reading on another old thread about the control box, and nope had no idea I needed it. It must plug into one of the wires I reconnected? I'll probably find a pic on here showing it.

 

[camp9]

No worries. That box is your problem then. It just goes between your column harness and the cab harness. You will note two extra wires on the column harness side but the same number of contacts as your cab on the cab harness side.

I do not remember but you may be able to use your CUCV signal arm. There are some slight differences in them and I just do not remember if that is a 100% true statement. You can use the one you have but then you will have the little cruise button there.

I'm looking at some of your pics from you helping out from a post back in July, I'll keep looking and see if I can find some pics with the box. I'm one of those learners that has to do it and make mistakes to learn, or see it in pictures.

 

[86m1028]

Did starter relay mod,
Rebuilt starter
12 volt glow plug mod &
8 new ac delco glow plugs.
Next is manual gp switch.

If this doesnt fix it, I'm scrapping the 6.2 & going 350

 

[corelokt]

Took the freeze plug heater out and swapped the crappy, undersize bolt out for a allen head cap screw that fit right. Re-installed it and have fingers crossed.

 

[cpf240]

Replaced the CDR valve. Crossing my fingers that the small rear main seal leak will go away now.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,

Within the last few weeks, I have done the following:

Changed and topped off all fluids.
Replaced both alternators.
Replaced both alternator belts.
Replaced battery cables.
Replaced glow plug relay.
Replaced starter relay (went Doghead).
Replaced starter (done at a shop, shop just did a warranty repair, got it back Friday 01/27/2012)).
Replaced both under dash relays that sit next to the starter relay (from CUCV electric)
Cleaned every electrical connection I could get to, in engine compartment and under dash,
including the fuse box.
Replaced all fuses in fuse box, with new and correct amp ones.
Replaced glow plug controller card (but have not put it in yet, keeping it as a spare,
in case the current one fails..)
Installed 24 Solargizer (Did that one today 01/28/2012...)
(just cannot tell if it is going to work, since sun had gone down by the time I was done,
will know tomorrow after the sun comes up again..)

Now it starts and runs just fine.. And I am going to do everything in my power to make sure
it stays that way.

Good day,

CJ

P.s. My hope is to be able to get this M1009 of mine, restored and fixed of all problems,
so it becomes safe, good running, dependable, tough and reliable enough.
That I can start helping any of you, like some of you have already helped me,
and perhaps become one of the team so to speak.

 

[wrex]

I packed it up last weekend and took it camping, that's what

P.S. We found a REALLY hard log we wanted to burn and got tired of chopping at it. We had the bright idea of rolling the CUCV on it to break it off. Well, it didn't lol.

 

[patracy]

Used mine to haul all the old carpet and matting to the dump. Replaced the damaged tail lenses. Ordered the rest of the parts needed to lift my truck as well.

 

[iluvbudwsr]

Adjusted my right side headlamp since it was shining almost strait down on the pavement and not out in front of the truck. As I got into it, it got more involved that I suspected. I was hoping I could just adjust the alignment screws. well, the screw that adjusted the beam from left to right worked like an ace but the real problem came when I tried adjusting the beam upwards since it wasn't shining out in front of the truck. The screw was still there to adjust the beam but was just floating in the socket. after closer inspection I found that the plastic tab which holds the screw on the inside was cracked half way is when the aggravation began. After going to several auto stores I was told the same thing (you're going to have to take the whole assembly out since its a sealed beam witch means taking part of the grill off). I did'nt like that idea much because it would just turn into more of a headache than what it was worth. I went by LOWEs and picked up a washer and a nut to fit the adjustment screw since most of the original mount was there but just a cracked tab. luckily this was on the drivers side so the battery didn't interfere with the new installation. I fit the washer and the proper size nut and held the nut with a wrench while I turned the screw and now my headlights are properly adjusted. I was very pleased since this bothered me from day one of owning the truck. now I can see excellent driving down the highway at night with both beams out in front of me and the fix is rock solid. Tomorrow is Cleaning day, check spare tire to make sure its in working order, maybe break out the mop and a touch of Pine Sol and clean some of the interior depending on the weather.

 

[unaffiliated]

@iluvbudwsr. First of all, I love me some Bud Select 99, so we should get along just fine. Second. The adjusters are easy to replace just DON'T BUY THEM AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE. They are CRAP. Look in the TM and get the GM part number for the plastic nut-sert. Go to the dealer and spend about $1.00 each for them. The headlight frame comes off with just 4 torx head screws. You do not have to remove the grill. Unscrew the adjusters all the way and install the nut-serts in the square hole. Screw the adjusters back in. Takes about 15 minutes per side. I bought the adjuster assemblies from O-Reillys and they stripped out immediately. Made in China of course. I actually did the same hobie-jim-bob repair you did temporarily till I got the good parts. I actually have a headlight adjuster kit made by Hoppy from when I had a repair shop. It has all the proper mounting fixtures for the different styles of sealed beams to really dial the headlights in perfectly. But aiming them against the garage door works well too.

 

[Darwin T]

had to put a starter on it in the parking lot at work. works fine now.

 

[Matt65]

Replaced the flex plate.

 

[corelokt]

Fresh oil and filter post over-heat.
Heater core. Fixed two broken heater plastic box bolts.
Going to do the trans filter and fluid today.

List so far, I think:

Front axle joints
Packed hubs and bearings
Greased
Belts
Heater hoses
2 ga. Batt. cables
HMMWV batt clamps
Aux. front lights w/ hi beams
Radiator
Heater core
Freeze plug heater
3 coolant changes
Chassis saver paint job on and under
New exhaust
Fuel tank and brackets, exhaust brackets, etc. removed and painted
Removed the original spare with tread falling off it
Wired in aux. fuse boxes, controlled by double pole switch
found and fixed some in dash rattles
Speed cable
Fixed both front side marker lenses, cracked, epoxied
Installed trailer hitch
Brake controller
Headlights on relays for brighter lights, longer lived light switch
Put circuit breakers in main 12v feeds for safety
Window seals on door windows
Gun rack in back window, of course!

Known to do's:
700r4 install
Likely replace heads, as likely cracked
tinted windows
Have resprayed underneath, on a lift so done better
Rust proof as well
Find a real U.S. of A. 190 degree T-stat.
Replace rest of U-joints (have them)
Quiet the interior

 

[ralbelt]

Removed the starter to replace a broken bolt, it backed right out with a left handed bit reinstalled with new bolts. The originals were in it when I got the truck from National guard unit thru Gl, I put them in and out 3 or 4 times , I kew better than to reuse. But they lasted 2 years plus, as a sunday driver. I think I will replace them every 3 or 4 years as general maintenance.


And yes it has the front bracket.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

Removed the starter to replace a broken bolt, it backed right out with a left handed bit reinstalled with new bolts. The originals were in it when I got the truck from National guard unit thru Gl, I put them in and out 3 or 4 times , I kew better than to reuse. But they lasted 2 years plus, as a sunday driver. I think I will replace them every 3 or 4 years as general maintenance.

Does it have the front bracket?? You shouldn't be breaking the starter bolts !

 

[jdeoliveira74]

Fresh oil and filter post over-heat.
Heater core. Fixed two broken heater plastic box bolts.
Going to do the trans filter and fluid today.

List so far, I think:

Front axle joints
Packed hubs and bearings
Greased
Belts
Heater hoses
2 ga. Batt. cables
HMMWV batt clamps
Aux. front lights w/ hi beams
Radiator
Heater core
Freeze plug heater
3 coolant changes
Chassis saver paint job on and under
New exhaust
Fuel tank and brackets, exhaust brackets, etc. removed and painted
Removed the original spare with tread falling off it
Wired in aux. fuse boxes, controlled by double pole switch
found and fixed some in dash rattles
Speed cable
Fixed both front side marker lenses, cracked, epoxied
Installed trailer hitch
Brake controller
Headlights on relays for brighter lights, longer lived light switch
Put circuit breakers in main 12v feeds for safety
Window seals on door windows
Gun rack in back window, of course!

Known to do's:
700r4 install
Likely replace heads, as likely cracked
tinted windows
Have resprayed underneath, on a lift so done better
Rust proof as well
Find a real U.S. of A. 190 degree T-stat.
Replace rest of U-joints (have them)
Quiet the interior

So the aux headlights how did you wire them in what was cost where did you purchase them from. The stock headlights are still way to dark for me I even changed them out and installed new ones
like the idea of the aux headlights with highs!
Jon

 

[Xperteas]

And 8 hours later I am done reading this thread. Whew, that's a lot to absorb.

Been lurking here for a while now, Looking to buy a M1009. Going to look at/buy one this week, wanted to see what all people are doing with them.

Thanks guys for all the info.

 

[corelokt]

Honestly, just two harbor freight black rubber utility lights. Super bright and look good too. They are powered from the same relay as the hi beams. Install two relays, inside the cab is better. Use the existing hi - low beam wires from the dimmer switch to control the relays. Use a hot lead with a circuit breaker in line to power the relays. connect the output to the existing headlight wires. If you use crimp on male and female spade connections you can tap into the existing circuits without cutting anything, you'll just have to make "jumpers". Spend the extra dollar and get the best lighting relays you can find, with two output terminals and a 30 amp rating. You will need to run a wire from the hi beam relay to the auxiliary lights.