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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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jets1959

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Lakewood, WA
The first thing you want to do when you get your CUCV is change the ignition cylinder and the door locks - unless you want everyone out there with a CUCV key to have access to your rig. They're all keyed the same, which is why they had a big chain bolted/welded to the floor or seat frame to padlock around the steering wheel. I got mine from a late 80's Chevy Astro at a local wrecking yard since they're the correct fit and they're the correct black color. I did the same on my M1009 but took the rear window lock to a locksmith to have the tumbler set to the door key. Cost was around $10.00 for that.
You can buy them new at autozone. About $25 for the ignition and $20 for a set of two door locks! Ignition key and door keys are different just like on a civy truck. Square for ignition round for the doors.
 
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K9Vic

Active member
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Fort Worth, TX
Spent Sunday tracing all the wires on my M1031 from the panel in the contact box to the engine and cabin. All wires toned OK with my meter so they are not cut anyplace. I am still not able to get my generator to output power, so it has to be the electronics now. I may break down and go with the modern upgrade system, but it is not cheap.

I also checked my IP to make sure it is OK as my M1031 has been idling rough lately and stalled a few times a few weeks ago. I have also had it stall out when on an angle and not restart even with fuel showing 1/4 tank. I added 5 gallons and it started, that was a month ago. So Sunday I also changed the fuel filter and bleed the system. So far it seems OK, but if I still have issues I will dig deeper into it next weekend.


Not my truck, but a friends on Saturday.
M1009 - Replaced injectors & replaced return lines with Tygon 5/32 tubing.
 

TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA
TechnoWeenie, I'm interested in hearing how well (eg. related to a 'normal' modern vehicle, maybe) it dampens sound. I've heard/found that most of the road noise actually comes from the rear...
With just the passenger tub done, it's night and day.

I can talk to a passenger in normal conversational tone, no need to raise my voice/yell.

It was raining, and I heard a LOT of road noise/water from the wheel well area. I'm betting with the rear carpeted as well, it'd be pretty quiet.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
With just the passenger tub done, it's night and day.

I can talk to a passenger in normal conversational tone, no need to raise my voice/yell.

It was raining, and I heard a LOT of road noise/water from the wheel well area. I'm betting with the rear carpeted as well, it'd be pretty quiet.
Wait until you get it off road. The first time my BFGs threw a rock up into the rear wheel well it sounded like a gunshot. Some sort of liner in the wheel well might help too.
 

ARYankee

Well-known member
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Location
Benton, AR
I finally replaced the steering stabilizer along with front and rear shocks because they were all shot. All Monroe parts. I got a good deal on them from Advance Auto Parts. I get a $90 mail in rebate on them. I can't wait to go out in it for a drive.
 

rvnlrrp

New member
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1
Location
Perry, GA
Drove my M1008 on a dirt road today and heard a "Clicking" sound in the H/L shift on the floor when I hit a bump. Soundlike a solenoid trying to engage or something. Didn't notice any issues with the transmission or anything else, just the clicking.
 

Durango_USMC

Member
663
0
18
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Doghead relay mod, checked fuses, swapped foltmeter and gen 2 relays to see if that may be part of my problem, its not. Will be checking the parking brake later today, theres a lot of rust in the adjustment section. Still hunting electrical gremlins and leaks...
 

twlinks

New member
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Location
Hutchinson, KS
Well, it felt like Spring here today with temps above 70. Tomorrow is supposed to be 80 and if the wind will stay down, I'm going to paint the '09 tomorrow afternoon. It's been ready and waiting all winter long and I resisted temptation a couple of times when it was 50, so now I'm sitting here tonight feeling really antsy for tomorrow.
IMG_0052 (Large).jpg
 

Durango_USMC

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Location
Indianapolis, IN
Figured out the driverside rear wheel is stuck... will try to figure out how to unstick it. I jacked up the rear end and the passenger side wheel spins freely... the driverside is definitely not moving anymore.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Figured it was the rear from your previous description. Do you see any evidence of fluid leaks in the back side? for some reasun your brakes adjusted themselves tight on that wheel.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
IR lights installed on 1009

I moved my front IR lights and moved the control box on my winch so that it has a lower profile and the cover fits better. I decided I did not like the
brackets and did not like the lights out that far.
The winch control box was on top of the winch, I used a hose clamp to calmp it on one side of the winch, sorry I did not get pics of the winch without the cover.
I also moved my license plate by using the bottom two mounting holes on the 7inch lights.
I am considering adding an led light bar below the license plate.
 

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Durango_USMC

Member
663
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Location
Indianapolis, IN
Figured it was the rear from your previous description. Do you see any evidence of fluid leaks in the back side? for some reasun your brakes adjusted themselves tight on that wheel.
I'm at my wits end with this brake issue... Yes there does appear to be some sort of leak on the front side of the stuck wheel, not sure if that was my desperate pumping of the brake in an attempt at fixing something. The wheel on the other has some fluid on the back of it but it still spins fine. I've been rooting around youtube and the TMs and they are all less than helpful on fixing this. I feel dumber than the 7th grade educated joe schmo that the TM's were written for... I've never dealt with drum brakes before so half of this doesnt make sense when they say theres an inspection/adjustment hole on the back. But my guess is it may be the big nut at the top? I havent a clue. I dont have anything to reseal the wheel bearing cover if I actually have to take that off, I apparently destroyed some ruber cover for a nipple above what I think is the service brake line in? Smacked the drum with a sledge and got nothing. Still dont have a clue what I'm doing and pretty much trying to read anything about CUCV drum brakes I can find. To say I am agitated, frustrated, and angry at at myself and the truck is an understatement... either that or angry that the forestry office left this thing in a field forever and its rusting to oblivion and is apparently the home of several wasp nests and spiders. And i really dont feel like finding out if I am deathly allergic to any of them while sitting under the truck.

http://www.hillbillywizard.com/images/14boltdisc_kit_copy.jpg

I'm really thinking of doing the disc brake modification. at least I know how to work on those... I'm just really angry because I cant seem to figure this out and I know I dont have everything I need to do the job properly, or even improvised.

ETA: Just got some good advice... and man this drum is RUSTY, but I finally got the adjustment screw port cover off after a little scraping and plying.
 
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rvnlrrp

New member
25
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1
Location
Perry, GA
Trying to get M1008 cammo. Used scheme for M880 TM as a start. Had not removed Civ style camper shell, so I thought what the heck, start painting it too!

Cucv New 3.jpg
 
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CARNAC

The Envelope Please.
Supporting Vendor
8,281
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Location
Corpus Christi, TX
Gotta tell ya, if you're worried that the shell makes it look "unmilitary", in the latter half of life for these many did have shells put on them by the National Guard OMS or UTES shops or the Army Reserve ECS or AMSA shops.

Looks normal to me.
 
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