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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
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After installing the extra power steering cooler I decided to replace all the return hoses with "Parker Hi-Temp" hose and install hose "flex" armor on all the hoses. The Flex armor is a 1/8" thick heavy duty plastic wrap that you install over the hose. Now my hoses can handle 500 degrees and 400psi pressure ! Of course they are return lines with about 20psi on them, but like I always say "you never know !" .
Hey that's not a 6.2 Diesel in there. ;)
 
70
0
6
Location
Vermont
Got a new radiator put in after some persuasion and a few trips to autozone. I know its unorthodox, bit put in a cheap two core aluminum for a chevy big block race car. Had to adapt the hoses and the trans and oil cooler were on swapped sides. 100mi on interstate and temps are still fine!
Got the old radiator, no leaks just roughed up, if anyone wants it its my donation to you, also have the oil cooler lines and block adapters if it would help anyone out. Im in Ohio, near Dayton for the rest of the summer.
 

iacucv

Member
153
1
18
Location
Spencer, IA
Richingalveston and cucvlovr - appreciate the input. I have put quite a bit of thought to this. Rich, I know there's a lot of moisture/water and elements back there. Here's the solution I am going to use - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT652/XTC-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-Slim-line-2-3-8-depth.html . A nice bead of windshield grade urethane around all edges and seal points and it should be 100% watertight. Cucvlovr, I will have that ammo can center console with the welded in cup holders somewhere in the near future. In my 1008 I had a wedge shaped custom fit box in front of the t case shifter that held a couple 6" speakers. Did its job and out of the way. The 09 I'm thinking will require some more decibels to fill the cab, or maybe I just have more space to work with lol. Have a couple 6x9s in hand if 4 6.5" speakers aren't enough. I'm thinking as soon as I get the interior of the truck bed lined the acoustics will improve dramatically.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Hey that's not a 6.2 Diesel in there. ;)
You didn't know I replaced it years ago after the fire ? I just got tired of constantly working on that blasted thing ! I put in a 383 Hi-Torque crate engine. It has more power and better torque then the 6.2 ever had. I also replaced a lot of exterior trim like the bumpers with nice chrome stuff, but it still is a military vehicle. I bought it in 1998 from GSA . They didn't have Gov Liquidation at that time.
On a private note cucvrus , your mail is full and I tried to send you a message tonight. Basically the spring company I bought those springs from sent me the wrong ones and I really need your NOS front springs ! I'm running out of time before the big trip. For those who are wondering what is happening, I was originally going to buy cucvrus's NOS front springs. I sent him several PM's and he only answered once. I thought he was pissed at me so I went ahead and bought some from some company back east (I didn't know at the time that cucvrus was swamped with work) . They sent the wrong ones ! They don't have the correct ones in stock ! So I could try another company and hope they send the correct ones or actually get the correct ones from cucvrus if he will forgive me and go ahead with the original deal. That's what is going on now.
 
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Tinstar

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Edmond, Oklahoma
Installed NOS fender splash shields.
Put on a factory Detroit diesel logo plate on each valve cover. (I know Chevy didn't put these on)
Applied more NO-OX-ID electrical grease to wire sockets and grounds. I Do this almost every day.
Fixed broken bench seat back. Drivers side. Lower Tube had busted loose. Welded and all is good. Lower back doesn't hurt after long drives now.
Still waiting on tach to arrive.

Checked idle RPM with lazer tool. Right at 670

And of course drove it.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,256
2,943
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Installed NOS fender splash shields.
Put on a factory Detroit diesel logo plate on each valve cover. (I know Chevy didn't put these on)
Applied more NO-OX-ID electrical grease to wire sockets and grounds. I Do this almost every day.
Fixed broken bench seat back. Drivers side. Lower Tube had busted loose. Welded and all is good. Lower back doesn't hurt after long drives now.
Still waiting on tach to arrive.

Checked idle RPM with lazer tool. Right at 670

And of course drove it.
I bought some of that "NO-OX-ID A Special" and it's great stuff ! Thanks Tinstar for letting me know about this stuff ! I've been going over the whole truck and putting it on all the bulb contacts and connectors.
 

Tinstar

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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I bought some of that "NO-OX-ID A Special" and it's great stuff ! Thanks Tinstar for letting me know about this stuff ! I've been going over the whole truck and putting it on all the bulb contacts and connectors.
You bet!
Im glad I found out about it! Stuff is better than plain dielectric grease for sure.
I noticed it holds up better to heat also. Still has a melting point but doesn't get as "fluid" if that makes sense.

Ive been using it on everything. Just did my RV battery connections.
Replacing the regular grease where I can on my MV's

Bought 10 more tubes so I don't run out anytime soon.
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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48
Location
Orlando, FL
Tinstar - 10 tubes of NO-OX will last you about 5 lifetimes! I have 2 tubes, and I doubt I will ever empty them. A little of that stuff goes a long way. :)
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Tinstar - 10 tubes of NO-OX will last you about 5 lifetimes! I have 2 tubes, and I doubt I will ever empty them. A little of that stuff goes a long way. :)
True!
Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
4 MVs, 1 car, 3 pickups and RV, 1 ranch and etc I've been using a lot.
Works great on electric fence also.

Overkill supply I know, but I got a really good deal on a surplus supply. Bought all the seller had.
 

Small Prepper

Member
57
2
8
Location
Gernantown, MD
Afternoon ALL

Had time to work on the truck last weekend (M1009)
Power washed all of the outside (sure was dirty)
Also installed head light relay package (easy to install)
Before that I notice that the fuse that control the headlight was getting hot and starting to melt. This should help resolve the problem.



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rustystud

Well-known member
9,256
2,943
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Afternoon ALL

Had time to work on the truck last weekend (M1009)
Power washed all of the outside (sure was dirty)
Also installed head light relay package (easy to install)
Before that I notice that the fuse that control the headlight was getting hot and starting to melt. This should help resolve the problem.



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That's what I did also ! My headlight switch kept burning out. So after the second switch I got some relays and fuse block and routed all the power through the relays. Now the light switch only has to power the relays. In all honesty that GM headlight switch is not made to handle much current. Add some extra lights and your asking for trouble.
 
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