• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Not sure how I would commit any fraud by not having functional odometers, or not driving a vehicle during the past year. In either case the numbers don't go up, but whether I put zero or 350 miles (or even 5,000) on an insured vehicle shouldn't really matter, should it?
I think it is fraud when you wrongfully take money from insurance companies, not when they take it from you!

By the way, what is a state inspection? I already paid my sales tax, what on earth do they need to have their grubby fingers on my vehicle for?
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
18
Location
Linsdale, TN
It's to see if is safe to drive and not have broken bolts and links that are ready to fall off.
In Tennessee it's a Darwin Award thing. I've seen downright ugly vehicles that were safe and many that looked good, but should have been black flagged. I don't believe a "state inspection" has much to do with safety. I know a school bus company that used to put all new parts on a bus to pass the inspection and then put them on the next bus. Cheaters cheat and tools are abundant.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I think it is fraud when you wrongfully take money from insurance companies, not when they take it from you!
Call it stupid pride, or whatever, but if there's any possibility that I can fix a vehicle myself rather than getting insurance involved, I'll give it a try.
Last time that didn't work out was in '81.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
Not sure how I would commit any fraud by not having functional odometers, or not driving a vehicle during the past year. In either case the numbers don't go up, but whether I put zero or 350 miles (or even 5,000) on an insured vehicle shouldn't really matter, should it?
Your contract with the insurance company is based on certain facts represented by you, including the type of registration, and in most cases, the expected annual mileage. If you have misrepresented that mileage, and you are concealing that by not fixing your odometer, that is insurance fraud.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Your contract with the insurance company is based on certain facts represented by you, including the type of registration, and in most cases, the expected annual mileage. If you have misrepresented that mileage, and you are concealing that by not fixing your odometer, that is insurance fraud.
Yes, going over the agreed maximum annual mileage and covering that up by giving false information would not be honest.
But when I don't get around to drive a car in a year, whether the odometer reading stays the same because of lack of use or because it isn't working should be a moot point, no?
My insurance agent knows that some vehicles may get zero miles in a year, others anywhere from 2 to 2,000, and that with one I sometimes do get close to its annual 7,500 mile limit.
Nothing fraudulent about it, as far as I know. And if the insurance company thinks there is, nobody has told me yet.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
I finally jumped on the spin on fuel filter wagon. Yesterday I had a couple slow starts, then no start. Was towing the truck home and tried it again, this time it started. Checked lift pump pressure and it was at 7-8psi, and a new IP so I figured it must be sucking air finally. Was just a bit wet on the back of the factory filter block when I took it off. I was hoping to hold off on the swap till next spring and go with the D-Max filter setup but I had a filter mount on the shelf from a boat I scrapped. Stopped at NAPA for a new filter for it and she's back to perfect starts again.
Sure glad I've stalked these forums over and over :)
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,465
10,398
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think it looks great. You want pretty buy a new truck. I have a pretty one. I like pretty. But on the same note I like the rugged used look on my CUCV. Is that the latex paint? Did you paint it outside? How long did it take to get hard and dry?
 

ywgspotter

New member
22
1
3
Location
Edmonton, Alberta
I think it looks great. You want pretty buy a new truck. I have a pretty one. I like pretty. But on the same note I like the rugged used look on my CUCV. Is that the latex paint? Did you paint it outside? How long did it take to get hard and dry?
It's the Behr Marquee paint that I've been reading about here. I did all my painting outside, application was with a paint gun (which is probably why it's very rough due to my amateurish skills) And I let it sit about a week before I took it for a drive, I'm still quite weary of letting rain onto it so it's parked in the shed when it's not looking too nice out. I still want to say the paint is soft because it scratches so easily, but that could just be the way the paint is. Regardless though at least rust or paint touch ups can be done with a colour matching paint.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,465
10,398
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Water base paint likes air and shade to cure and harden. In the sun it stays soft. I sprayed mine outside with water base CARC about a month ago. It has since been severely muddied and pressure washed with 3000 PSI. I had a few adhesion issues at the pintle hook where grease was present and I had a small area at the left head lamp bezel. The bezel was from a previous paint issue that I did NOT sand out completely. But the adhesion is superior and held up well. I would get some air blowing over that to get the water out of the paint and let it thoroughly dry. Sunlight heat tends to keep it soft in my experience. Heat and air make the best conditions. Does the dust stick to it?
 

ywgspotter

New member
22
1
3
Location
Edmonton, Alberta
Water base paint likes air and shade to cure and harden. In the sun it stays soft. I sprayed mine outside with water base CARC about a month ago. It has since been severely muddied and pressure washed with 3000 PSI. I had a few adhesion issues at the pintle hook where grease was present and I had a small area at the left head lamp bezel. The bezel was from a previous paint issue that I did NOT sand out completely. But the adhesion is superior and held up well. I would get some air blowing over that to get the water out of the paint and let it thoroughly dry. Sunlight heat tends to keep it soft in my experience. Heat and air make the best conditions. Does the dust stick to it?
Thank's for that tidbit of information, I've been trying to let it sit out in the sun thinking that'll bake the paint nice and hard. Looks like I'll keep leaving it in the shed. I've noticed that there's dust on the tailgate just from the gravel road but it certainly doesn't look like it's become embedded within the paint.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks