• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
That's what I'm asking...does the vrv control the shift back to first when I'm stopped?
You need someone to look at it. At my desk I only see (envision) what you tell me. Have a professional look at it and get it set up right. I can't tell what is going on. It could be a multitude of things or just 1 thing. Major to minor. You do need a vacuum gauge to do it correctly. I bought a GM gauge and don't know how to use it correctly. But enough to get by. Good Luck.
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
On my way to find the bracket i discovered that overnight my truck doesn't shift back to first gear at stoplights unless o do it manually

Your quote. Now it does go or doesn't go into first?
If I manually shift it to first it will start in first after coming to a stop...if I leave in "d" it will act like a higher gear until I drip it to first manually
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
It can all stem around proper adjustment of the vacuum/ and the modulator. That is why I said. get it looked by an experienced technician. It takes a few tools and the vacuum gauge. Other then that it is guess work and hit or miss. Sure you can turn and adjust if you have a descent place to start. But get it done once the right way. I have been here a few times. Once it is correct it generally stays that way. Until someone messes with it. That has been my experience over many years. Somethings are just left to others if you are just guessing what to do. $$$ is an excellent tool and it can save more $$$$.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,007
4,579
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Did I maybe make the word up entirely?!

Or maybe even channelled it from the frozen depths of deep space...

The gods alone know its meaning. :mrgreen:
 
Last edited:

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
It can all stem around proper adjustment of the vacuum/ and the modulator. That is why I said. get it looked by an experienced technician. It takes a few tools and the vacuum gauge. Other then that it is guess work and hit or miss. Sure you can turn and adjust if you have a descent place to start. But get it done once the right way. I have been here a few times. Once it is correct it generally stays that way. Until someone messes with it. That has been my experience over many years. Somethings are just left to others if you are just guessing what to do. $$$ is an excellent tool and it can save more $$$$.
Let me.explain.....the vrv was replaced aboit a year ago...the result was normal shifting for a year instead if racing to gu4 d the next gear...it has no problems during the up shift part of driving..its when I stop it will not lock back in first gear unless I select it manually..i see little to no reason to adjust the vrv after it had been in perfect operation for the last year...what i need is an answer as to what kicks it back to first gear when stopped....lol
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am out of the equation. I was only recommending a flawless option at this point. I would go to a shop and get it done right. That is a lot less then burning up time and the transmission. that is all I was trying to do. Could I be wrong? Yes. Getting it looked at by a reliable transmission guy is my advise. It could be major or minor. Or just an adjustment. Vacuum is flowing when you stop at a red light. if not at the proper setting it could be telling the transmission you are going 25 MPH. I tap out on this one.
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
I am out of the equation. I was only recommending a flawless option at this point. I would go to a shop and get it done right. That is a lot less then burning up time and the transmission. that is all I was trying to do. Could I be wrong? Yes. Getting it looked at by a reliable transmission guy is my advise. It could be major or minor. Or just an adjustment. Vacuum is flowing when you stop at a red light. if not at the proper setting it could be telling the transmission you are going 25 MPH. I tap out on this one.
Well I been reading up and some people say the governer is the trans could be more along the lines of the issue.. the vrv from what I understand only controls the up shift points, which are fine, I appreciate your comments no doubt and it will go to the tranny shop if I can't figure it out in just trying to save my 1,000 bucks on labor that had quoted me this morning :(
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am in the wrong business. I have TH400 transmissions completely gone over with rebuilt torque converter about $750.. Most times I pull it myself and that makes opportunity to clean and paint all the parts and underside. Sorry I don't set pricing. Owning an older vehicle is much more expensive then a new one at times. That has been my experience over the years. Good Luck. Wish I could wave a magic wand and fix it. But my pixie dust don't work anymore. Sometimes you must understand the seals and gaskets are very old and need replaced. That requires a special talent and tools that I don't have either. My $$$ is my best tool at times. Saved me a lot in terms of heart ache and extra work. Do it right the first time and move on. Being light hearted but honest. Maybe a CUCV is not for everyone. I have been telling myself that many times over the past 20+ years.
 
Last edited:

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
https://youtu.be/nPDo2ir-NhU

The gov was stuck..im installing now and I'll post the results
Removing the governor and cleaning it in diesel fixed my issues for anyone who has has similar problems with the transmission not starting in first gear from a stop.
I hope someone can use this information to their benefit

Score 1 for the home team....now to remove that pesky broken starter bolt and to wait for the next emergency...
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
When you say you pulled it out "with a pick", i'm not picturing that clearly.

What kind of pick are talking about, you mean like a steel dental pick?
Yes, I actually watched a video of a guy talking about it last night as I though to myself there's no frikking way...but it worked and it was hard to believe, in my defense the bolt was not rusty or cross threaded..
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,074
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I am out of the equation. I was only recommending a flawless option at this point. I would go to a shop and get it done right. That is a lot less then burning up time and the transmission. that is all I was trying to do. Could I be wrong? Yes. Getting it looked at by a reliable transmission guy is my advise. It could be major or minor. Or just an adjustment. Vacuum is flowing when you stop at a red light. if not at the proper setting it could be telling the transmission you are going 25 MPH. I tap out on this one.
I see you found the problem, but "cucvrus" was correct about taking it into a shop. As far as the modulator valve goes (that is the one that vacuum controls) it and the governor work hand in hand to control shift points. If the modulator valve was stuck due to the vacuum being off it could have caused a "no downshift" problem. Most times the governor pressure will eventually overcome modulator pressure. You will see this when your flooring the vehicle. It stays in the lower gear until road speed (which effects the governor) causes the governor pressure to overcome the modulator. Now on the other hand modulator pressure along with the bypass valve (controlled by that little switch on the floor pedal) can and will overcome governor pressure when you floor the pedal. These two pressures are in a constant dance with each other and the VRV is a vital part of this little dance. So when you have a problem like this the safest bet is to take it to a good shop and have them check it out. Unless of course you a pretty good transmission mechanic yourself.
On the newer computer controlled transmissions I would take them into a shop period. I don't even own the special interface adapters and priority adjustment programs needed to check them. At Metro we didn't own the computer program to check the Allison transmissions. We rented it year by year. Allison will not sell it. It's the same with almost all the major transmission manufactures now. So shops today must rent these special programs and then pass on the cost to the customer. Just the way it is today.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,512
1,696
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
I came out to go to work this morning and discovered an 8" crack in the windshield. Too hot out yesterday (90°)? Not sure. It wasn't there the day before yesterday when I moved it.

Well, it might be good to get it replaced; the wipers didn't work so well with the pitted surface.
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
I see you found the problem, but "cucvrus" was correct about taking it into a shop. As far as the modulator valve goes (that is the one that vacuum controls) it and the governor work hand in hand to control shift points. If the modulator valve was stuck due to the vacuum being off it could have caused a "no downshift" problem. Most times the governor pressure will eventually overcome modulator pressure. You will see this when your flooring the vehicle. It stays in the lower gear until road speed (which effects the governor) causes the governor pressure to overcome the modulator. Now on the other hand modulator pressure along with the bypass valve (controlled by that little switch on the floor pedal) can and will overcome governor pressure when you floor the pedal. These two pressures are in a constant dance with each other and the VRV is a vital part of this little dance. So when you have a problem like this the safest bet is to take it to a good shop and have them check it out. Unless of course you a pretty good transmission mechanic yourself.
On the newer computer controlled transmissions I would take them into a shop period. I don't even own the special interface adapters and priority adjustment programs needed to check them. At Metro we didn't own the computer program to check the Allison transmissions. We rented it year by year. Allison will not sell it. It's the same with almost all the major transmission manufactures now. So shops today must rent these special programs and then pass on the cost to the customer. Just the way it is today.
Transmission shops in my area are not really friendly..the either want to do a full rebuild or sell you a new unit...i knew whatever it was was a small thing so I started with the basics and I got lucky..first were the rubber lines ..i had a modulator lined
up at the parts house and figures I could check the governor while I waited for them to get it.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks