• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
The 700R4 battle continued. Bolted up a remanufactured Sonnax valve body (with updates) and took it for a drive. Now I’m happy with how it is driving. Welded up a spare tire mount, and slapped some paint on it.

Tomorrow I think I am going to put a pressure gauge on
the transmission to confirm that everything is a-ok, then go for a 60+ mile drive.
 

edpdx

Active member
795
75
28
Location
Oregon
Just installed a new underhood liner/insulation pad. I got it from Eckler's P/N 332505- under $50 shipped. Of all the liners I have used over the years, this one was perfect all around. Came with new pins. Came pre-drilled to match all holes. I have not driven it around yet, but will. If I am impressed with performance, I'll post a pic.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Just installed a new underhood liner/insulation pad. I got it from Eckler's P/N 332505- under $50 shipped. Of all the liners I have used over the years, this one was perfect all around. Came with new pins. Came pre-drilled to match all holes. I have not driven it around yet, but will. If I am impressed with performance, I'll post a pic.
Please do anyways, I was considering trying to find one for my truck, but something more along aftermarket universal.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
In an effort to produce more heat i changed out my thermostat and "gravity" flushed the heater core...its -10 windchill here so us8ng the garden hise is nit an option....base line temp raised a bit but its not blowing really hot air like id like...anyone here have really " hot" heat? On a side note the radiator builds ebough pressure now to vent coolant to the overflow...which has a small crack in it so i have to add that to the list...in a second second note my heater blend door is operation and closes and ooens fully as intended...after changing the t stat i started the truck to burp the air out and it has steady flow from the heater core looking down in the radiator...seems to flow as intended and i have no reason to believe the heater core is not factory.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Mine blows very hot heat. Single digit temps with snow don't allow me to turn down the defrost so I mix with floor heat and crack my window about an inch. That is with the heater fan on one notch below the highest. I have never had a square body Chevy with a bad heater and I have had quite a few (til they rust out!).
 

edpdx

Active member
795
75
28
Location
Oregon
In an effort to produce more heat i changed out my thermostat and "gravity" flushed the heater core...its -10 windchill here so us8ng the garden hise is nit an option....base line temp raised a bit but its not blowing really hot air like id like...anyone here have really " hot" heat? On a side note the radiator builds ebough pressure now to vent coolant to the overflow...which has a small crack in it so i have to add that to the list...in a second second note my heater blend door is operation and closes and ooens fully as intended...after changing the t stat i started the truck to burp the air out and it has steady flow from the heater core looking down in the radiator...seems to flow as intended and i have no reason to believe the heater core is not factory.
The heater core was one of the first projects I got on when I bought my M1009. I posted a few thoughts in an earlier post. The folks on this forum advised to have the OEM heater Core rebuilt by a qualified tech. I needed heat, so I bought an aluminum replacement at NAPA. It came packed in a nice closed-cell foam container- which I promptly tossed. The new heater core puts out warm/hot air, but not a lot. I learned that the foam I tossed is meant to be installed so that it flanks the replacement core, thus preventing any blow-by. The rebuilt (OEM) core is larger and fills the seat in the plenum- no blow-by. When you replace the core, don't make the same mistake.

Good luck, and stay cool... well, you know.
 

edpdx

Active member
795
75
28
Location
Oregon
Please do anyways, I was considering trying to find one for my truck, but something more along aftermarket universal.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

aaaaahood.jpg Here is a photo- It's raining, and the hood was against the bright (hazy) sky, so sorry about the pic quality.
 

german m1008

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
890
1,332
93
Location
Rhein-Main Area, Germany
The heater core was one of the first projects I got on when I bought my M1009. I posted a few thoughts in an earlier post. The folks on this forum advised to have the OEM heater Core rebuilt by a qualified tech. I needed heat, so I bought an aluminum replacement at NAPA. It came packed in a nice closed-cell foam container- which I promptly tossed. The new heater core puts out warm/hot air, but not a lot. I learned that the foam I tossed is meant to be installed so that it flanks the replacement core, thus preventing any blow-by. The rebuilt (OEM) core is larger and fills the seat in the plenum- no blow-by. When you replace the core, don't make the same mistake.

Good luck, and stay cool... well, you know.
054A72E1-D517-49D4-9678-85CF4DF2D419.jpg685D9E82-8101-4D0F-A4E6-A2B38EF0354F.jpgEF99E027-B61F-4E04-86CE-5EBF3407808C.jpgDEDC4AC6-CA66-4C7C-AA13-D9F03E48C449.jpg
......In the second picture you can see the remains of the old insulation
 

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
882
525
93
Location
tucson AZ
turn signals again

temp turn signal.jpgNow that they have been installed for a month or so, I kinda like them. Industrial looking. I bought two sets of magnetic tow lights (almost free at Harbor Freight), took the amber lenses off one set then installed on the other set so both sides are amber. I can unplug them via standard 4 wire flat connector. They are DOT approved= big enough & bright enough. Those DOT regulations about turn signals are a big deal: color, lumens, placement, self cancelling, all that stuff.
 

edpdx

Active member
795
75
28
Location
Oregon
View attachment 716314Now that they have been installed for a month or so, I kinda like them. Industrial looking. I bought two sets of magnetic tow lights (almost free at Harbor Freight), took the amber lenses off one set then installed on the other set so both sides are amber. I can unplug them via standard 4 wire flat connector. They are DOT approved= big enough & bright enough. Those DOT regulations about turn signals are a big deal: color, lumens, placement, self cancelling, all that stuff.
What was going on with the lamps?
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,513
1,698
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Drove up to the Oly Mountains to see the snow and function check my P320 after it came back from the recall. At one point the snow was falling so hard the wipers were just packing it on each side of their sweep, and we stopped a dozen times to clear the snow.

I have some video I'll try to get loaded.
 

Attachments

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
882
525
93
Location
tucson AZ
What was going on with the lamps?
It all started when I made a comment to my son-in-law about how I think the stock turn signals were rediculously large and that real estate could be better used for off-road LEDs. For my birthday he gave me a set of LEDs that just fit in that space. Well, here in AZ, its not required to have electric signals, so I figured I was good. (Arm signals are self cancelling after awhile at long traffic lights:)). A fellow SSmember, or two, shared that if I were to drive on a highway then DOT rules apply. I attached some itty bitty marker lights onto the grill, garnering more thoughts on the subject about size, brightness, and placement. When presented with a logical, reasonable arguement, I am willing to change my view. So I looked up the statutes and indeed the SSmembers were correct. So I went back to ginormous signals, but of a type that I can alter the placement or even delete off road. I was better off with the stock signals in original configuration, the LEDs should have been added somewhere else. But here I am.
 

Merddin

Member
91
-1
6
Location
Cape Girardeau, MO
Olly hondro
You can buy a grille without holes from Rock Auto for 25$. I just bought one and I'm going to paint it Black. I am repainting my red, faded to pink cucv, back to OD, with black bumpers grille and brush guard.
 
Last edited:

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,810
113
Location
GA Mountains
It all started when I made a comment to my son-in-law about how I think the stock turn signals were rediculously large and that real estate could be better used for off-road LEDs. For my birthday he gave me a set of LEDs that just fit in that space. Well, here in AZ, its not required to have electric signals, so I figured I was good. (Arm signals are self cancelling after awhile at long traffic lights:)). A fellow SSmember, or two, shared that if I were to drive on a highway then DOT rules apply. I attached some itty bitty marker lights onto the grill, garnering more thoughts on the subject about size, brightness, and placement. When presented with a logical, reasonable arguement, I am willing to change my view. So I looked up the statutes and indeed the SSmembers were correct. So I went back to ginormous signals, but of a type that I can alter the placement or even delete off road. I was better off with the stock signals in original configuration, the LEDs should have been added somewhere else. But here I am.
I know this is water under the bridge but the 81-82 bumper had turn signals within. Unlike the blackout holes, the holes for the shackles are not stamped with a lip so they can be carefully cut in.
 

RobM36A2

Member
302
9
18
Location
The Netherlands
For the first time in 2 months, drove my truck again, this time not without some issues...

Had to complete the glow cycle 4! times before the engine kicked into life.. It is not that cold, +12 degrees celcius.
Then noticed the voltmeter in the dash stopped working, but hey, the truck runs and charges. Gen lights 1 & 2 were off.

After a little while some funky smell irritated my nose.. Was thinking the voltmeter caused it, shut off the truck, smelled near the meter, nothing..
Weird, but ok, smell stopped. Started and went to fill up. At the pump smelled it again and while pumping diesel, saw a little hint of smoke coming from under the hood.
Got scared, stopped pumping and drove home at unsafe speeds. After coming home popped the hood and yes, there was a lot of smoke there, but no fire thank heavens.

After a little searching with my cell Phone light, it was still dark at 7.45 am, I found the culprit.
The resistor bank on the firewall was smoking like crazy. Shut off the ignition and it stopped smoking.
Did a little google stuff and found out that the bank only feeds the glowplugs.
So disconnected the smoking stinking resistor bank from the 24v side.

Started up again and went for the drive I was planning. Just didn't shut off the engine anymore.

Now my questions:
Is the bad glowing and smoking resistorbank related? I guess so.
How to bypass, replace or repair the resistor bank?
How to test if the in-dash voltmeter is broken or missing a connection?
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks