• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
Cleaned up the cluster. Took it all apart, cleaned out the dust, polished the clear lens, painted the needles, replaced trans indicator with an overdrive piece since the factory one was busted and I had it laying around. This will also help when I swap the 4L80e in. Also replaced most of the indicator bulbs and added 3 LED bulbs to cluster for night driving. Looks much better and I can finally see it at night.
20180304_200553.jpg
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
696
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
I installed a separate washer pump as mine was broken when i bought it. Had to adjust the nozzle up, it was spraying straight at the bottom of the windshield.
Managed to make my wipers park normally again in the meantime.

I tried to put on new transmission mounts, but I got two different mounts in identical part number boxed, so I just put my lower trans mounts on and will replace the tops later.

Replaced the front leaf spring front bushings with a cobbled together press of sockets, all thread and washers.

I removed the sway bar to replace the end bushings. Well, I was unsuccessful, and ended up ordering the energy suspension ones. I couldn't fab a die to squeeze the factory style bushings in and ended up damaging the one I pressed in.

Without the sway bar, I had my first taste of death wobble. I hit a pothole on the right front tire and it took to shaking and carrying on. Slowed to about under 25 and it stopped. Ive hit this bump dozens of times with the sway bar installed and it's never been a problem. All front leaf spring bushings are new and the main tie rod are new. There is a little play in the drag link, and between that and the missing sway bar, I figure that is what is causing it.
I haven’t had my sway bar connected for the last two years. I’ve never had death wobble and honestly don’t even notice any more lean in a turn.


sounds like you got a lot done though.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
I don't have the sway bar either no death wobble ever. It's usually the king pin bushings and steering components. I do have a newer stock drag link with maybe 500 miles for sale. I do get body sway but my springs are soft front and rear.
 
Last edited:

85CUCVtom

Active member
712
25
28
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Cleaned up the cluster. Took it all apart, cleaned out the dust, polished the clear lens, painted the needles, replaced trans indicator with an overdrive piece since the factory one was busted and I had it laying around. This will also help when I swap the 4L80e in. Also replaced most of the indicator bulbs and added 3 LED bulbs to cluster for night driving. Looks much better and I can finally see it at night.
View attachment 720710
What bulbs did you use?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
Other day I had a popping from my front axle when in 4x4. So I pulled my pass side lock in and it was busted. The knob wasn't connected anymore to the part it turns. Also front drive shaft was literally about to fly apart. Got one of those on the way too. Gonna get it greased up and put in when it shows up. Until then it's 2 wheel drive for me.
 

Cbstanford94

New member
11
0
1
Location
Mississippi
Cleaned up the cluster. Took it all apart, cleaned out the dust, polished the clear lens, painted the needles, replaced trans indicator with an overdrive piece since the factory one was busted and I had it laying around. This will also help when I swap the 4L80e in. Also replaced most of the indicator bulbs and added 3 LED bulbs to cluster for night driving. Looks much better and I can finally see it at night.
View attachment 720710
Is there a way to take just the needles off of the dash? I have a broke speedo needle I need to replace.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,465
10,396
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Is there a way to take just the needles off of the dash? I have a broke speedo needle I need to replace.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
I don't think so. That is going to surely mess something up. Nothing special about a speedometer from that era GM truck. Match it up and replace the entire speedometer. How many miles does it have. I have many maybe match it up real close.
 

Cbstanford94

New member
11
0
1
Location
Mississippi
I don't think so. That is going to surely mess something up. Nothing special about a speedometer from that era GM truck. Match it up and replace the entire speedometer. How many miles does it have. I have many maybe match it up real close.
Just hit 81,000

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,465
10,396
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Probably have one close. That thing done some traveling. I think it was in the 30's K when I rebuilt it. I can check at home in my stash. I still have one here that another guy wanted with very close mileage for his CUCV.
 

rodent

Member
113
0
16
Location
Denver, CO
What bulbs did you use?
I used these at my local parts store. You can probably find them cheaper online but I needed them the same day. Makes a huge difference. Cluster takes 3 and your voltmeter will take 1.
sylvania_046135330322primary_1024x1024.jpg


Is there a way to take just the needles off of the dash? I have a broke speedo needle I need to replace.
I think you can pull the needle off. This thread shows a guy doing it here although not the right way to adjust your speedo. LOL
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23837.0
quote- After working on my gauges quite extensively, I noticed that my speedometer is about 8 MPH fast. So if I'm doing 20 it will say I'm doing about 28. I pulled the needle and painted it bright orange again. It was faded and ugly. That is probably where my trouble started. I was just wondering if there is a simple trick to adjust the speedo, without having to pull the needle off again.



 
Last edited:

Cbstanford94

New member
11
0
1
Location
Mississippi
Probably have one close. That thing done some traveling. I think it was in the 30's K when I rebuilt it. I can check at home in my stash. I still have one here that another guy wanted with very close mileage for his CUCV.
Do you have the instrument clear lens that goes over fuel gauge/speedo?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
880
521
93
Location
tucson AZ
flaps down

Mud (what mud??) flaps.Compliance stuff. Placed them rearward so I don't back over them. Did that once with the deuce.
flaps down.jpg
 

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
880
521
93
Location
tucson AZ
24V & 12V busses

Have an idea on rear 24v 12 v power. Rear bus bars are not connected, have an on/off switch that cuts off batteries after you shut engine down. Have a 2000w 24v inverter that I’m mounting on right back seat panel. Thought of idea to connect upper bar to switch so connects when turned on. Then run power wire to inverter to run power strip to rear of T3. Also have 24v to 12 v converter that will connect to upper bus. Run 12 v from that converter to other bus bar for 12 v accessories IE CB CD few other necessities. Mechanical engineering tech BS seems like should work with out issues.
Any response will be viewed with interest .
I'm not sure if this answers your question: I re-designated the ground bus (front & rear) to be a 12 V bus. The passenger side frame rail now serves as the ground bus. The intake manifold engine ground attaches there, on the frame rail. There is already a hole atop the frame rail for a bolt attachment point. The rear, lower bus has a gap cut into it between terminals 2 and 3 counting from either end. True, the +12V wire from the front bus to the rear is colored black, but so far no electron has objected.
24&12 bus.jpg12&24 bus.jpg
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,288
1,770
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I don't think so. That is going to surely mess something up. Nothing special about a speedometer from that era GM truck. Match it up and replace the entire speedometer. How many miles does it have. I have many maybe match it up real close.
The busted needle wouldn’t come off the original on mine and I had to get a replacement from eBay.
Couldn’t find one locally and the GM replacement was in excellent condition.
Have a pic of original mileage and quick simple math will give me current true mileage.
Just passed the 100k mark recently.

Definitely would have preferred a needle replacement instead of a speedometer swap.
 

Cbstanford94

New member
11
0
1
Location
Mississippi
The busted needle wouldn’t come off the original on mine and I had to get a replacement from eBay.
Couldn’t find one locally and the GM replacement was in excellent condition.
Have a pic of original mileage and quick simple math will give me current true mileage.
Just passed the 100k mark recently.

Definitely would have preferred a needle replacement instead of a speedometer swap.
I actually have an extra entire cluster. It has something like 201,000miles on it. I was really trying to keep original but I may have to just do what you did.

I think I'll swap Speedos on it. I need a new lens but I don't know if the k10 lens will work since it's a solid piece.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

Cbstanford94

New member
11
0
1
Location
Mississippi
Update: replaced all bulbs. Found out the full k5 lens cover will work on a cucv dash.
Replaced full speedometer after realizing how fragile those little needles are. I like it.

When I actually get the time to take everything back out I have to trouble shoot why these lights are not working:
Gen 2
4x4
Oil indicator
Water in oil I think?


Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

Matt S

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
142
35
28
Location
Los Angeles, CA
When I was trouble shooting my lights in the gauge cluster, I energized each circuit to make sure the path was good, bulb was good, and the connections were solid. I also cleaned the connections with a pencil eraser. This helped me narrow down the issue.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks