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- Location
- tucson AZ
Oh wow.
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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
RobM36A2
Member
- 302
- 9
- 18
- Location
- The Netherlands
This morning replaced the old voltmeter with the new VDO one. (part number: 332-040-001-G)
The new meter is a little bit smaller than the old one, but not more than 1 millimeter, so fits in the hole great.
Only mods that needed to be done were:
-Replace the supplied T10 24v bulb with a 12v one.
-Change the connectors from ring to AMP connectors (See pictures why)
-Cut the wires from the old bulb and crimp on AMP connectors
Side note, the old bulb and socket did fit the new voltmeter, but was not bright enough. And the T10 bulbs are more common to get.
Pictures:
With a 5w 12v bulb at night:
The new meter is a little bit smaller than the old one, but not more than 1 millimeter, so fits in the hole great.
Only mods that needed to be done were:
-Replace the supplied T10 24v bulb with a 12v one.
-Change the connectors from ring to AMP connectors (See pictures why)
-Cut the wires from the old bulb and crimp on AMP connectors
Side note, the old bulb and socket did fit the new voltmeter, but was not bright enough. And the T10 bulbs are more common to get.
Pictures:
With a 5w 12v bulb at night:
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Talk about angry. Especially after I took the time to read about how easy it was to break them.
* Replaced the rusted out front battery tray with a freshly painted one (has more contact points, too).
* Painted the exposed rusty areas of the inner fender below the tray.
* Installed front battery hold down.
* Finished installing a tag bracket / light - just need to wire.
* Installed the pintle hitch cotter pin chain.
* Tore down the stupid steering column a little more - I'm about to yank it and start fresh.
* Painted the exposed rusty areas of the inner fender below the tray.
* Installed front battery hold down.
* Finished installing a tag bracket / light - just need to wire.
* Installed the pintle hitch cotter pin chain.
* Tore down the stupid steering column a little more - I'm about to yank it and start fresh.
rustystud
Well-known member
- 9,298
- 3,074
- 113
- Location
- Woodinville, Washington
Those GM steering columns can be a "real pain in the butt" . I ended up buying a good one from a junk yard. It had a tilt wheel ! So that was a bonus.
Yeah, someone had already installed a tilt column in my truck. But, the second bearing was dropping the ball bearings, making the steering wheel loose front to back. So, that's where I'm at right now.
- 134
- 15
- 18
- Location
- Battle Ground/WA
The "UP" side to the GM columns is they are extremely popular for street rods and parts are readily available. Once you rebuild it right or replace it with one that is in good shape, it should cease to be a problem.
I’m very pleased to report that as of about 10 minutes ago, all of the rust holes I found in the floor of my wife’s M1009 have been repaired. My goal was to finish the entire floor before winter, so now it’s on to painting and lining the rear areas. Driver and passenger position were done earlier in the summer.
It feels grear to make so much progress in what very little spare time I have!
It feels grear to make so much progress in what very little spare time I have!
- 4,292
- 1,779
- 113
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
Finally installed new set of tires.
They Were way past due.
Been gone flying a lot lately and haven’t had time until today
Was planning on Michelin’s, but decided on Coopers All Terrain.
For what I use truck for, these will be fine.
Stock size and E rated.
Made in USA
Rides and handles great
Saved some money
Win Win
rustystud
Well-known member
- 9,298
- 3,074
- 113
- Location
- Woodinville, Washington
It does feel good to finish a project goal you set for yourself. The problem with mine is they are years in the making
.
woody127
Member
- 33
- 36
- 18
- Location
- Huntingdon Valley ,PA
Installed LED headlights, so far good to go. Does change the look and I can see the difference at night.
- 134
- 15
- 18
- Location
- Battle Ground/WA
Rustystud, I hear you on the "project creep" it is like trying to get rid of blackberries, you can make progress killing it, digging it up and cutting it but the darn plant just keeps growing. At least for me, just the act of working on a project will seed ideas for more.............................. PROJECTS!
- 882
- 525
- 93
- Location
- tucson AZ
Why do the hubs stick out so far ? The dually hubs on mine look like this. Stock backspacing H1s bolt right up, the hubs do not stick out past the tires.
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- 4,292
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- 113
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
Angle of pic makes it seem worse than it is.
Stock M1008A1 with CUCV rims and stock size tires.
- 1,657
- 1,676
- 113
- Location
- Nova Laboratories, WA
Sorry you went with the crappy ones..
bluesman1966
New member
- 6
- 0
- 1
- Location
- Germany
In Germany the CUCV are very expensive Vehicles so i do a lot of service to drive it for a long time. I changed the harmonic balancer , all oils an filters, Dieselpump, engine and transmissionmounts, starter, Flywheel, a lot of Tubes, Steeringdampener............next will be prevention of rust, new shocks and and and.......
- 1,512
- 1,696
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
I finally gathered all the parts I needed to install the big antenna on the CUCV.
I'm not really sure what this was used for, but I think it was a training antenna for triggering or jamming IEDs? Not sure. Anyway, there was a 315MHz whip antenna mounted in a plexiglass strip that is screwed into the lid of the antenna tube. Below the antenna is a 40db attenuator (why?) then a long bit of thin coax down the otherwise empty tube to the PL-259 in the base.
I picked up a Comet SBB-5NMO for a couple reasons- it's the tallest that can fit inside the tube, and and it doesn't need a ground plane. I also got a 10" bulkhead connector and an adapter to make it NMO. This was a bit of a mistake. My plan was to screw a nut underneath, and another inside the tube at the base- but that would have prevented the spring from bending.
Instead I have the nuts on each side of the tube base. This will work for now and let the spring move some, but I'll noodle the mount set-up.
Once the antenna was inside the tube, I found another problem; the antenna flexes and will bang around inside the tube- not ideal. Remember that plexiglass piece that's screwed into the tube lid? I put a rubber grommet in the hole (where the whip was mounted) and fed the Comet antenna up through. This keeps the upper part of the antenna centered in the tube and not slapping around.
For giggles I sat the tube on top of the riser- easily gets the whole antenna above the roof-line but between the weight of the antenna assembly and the wind load I expect, I think the bracket will crack over time. I pulled the riser off and bolted the antenna to the bracket and connected the antenna feed line from the radio.
The results are very good. I'm hitting repeaters loud-&-clear I usually can't hit from my driveway. The signal is getting in and out of the tube just fine. The Sheriffs' and fire freqs are coming in better than the previous as well.
I'm not really sure what this was used for, but I think it was a training antenna for triggering or jamming IEDs? Not sure. Anyway, there was a 315MHz whip antenna mounted in a plexiglass strip that is screwed into the lid of the antenna tube. Below the antenna is a 40db attenuator (why?) then a long bit of thin coax down the otherwise empty tube to the PL-259 in the base.
I picked up a Comet SBB-5NMO for a couple reasons- it's the tallest that can fit inside the tube, and and it doesn't need a ground plane. I also got a 10" bulkhead connector and an adapter to make it NMO. This was a bit of a mistake. My plan was to screw a nut underneath, and another inside the tube at the base- but that would have prevented the spring from bending.
Instead I have the nuts on each side of the tube base. This will work for now and let the spring move some, but I'll noodle the mount set-up.Once the antenna was inside the tube, I found another problem; the antenna flexes and will bang around inside the tube- not ideal. Remember that plexiglass piece that's screwed into the tube lid? I put a rubber grommet in the hole (where the whip was mounted) and fed the Comet antenna up through. This keeps the upper part of the antenna centered in the tube and not slapping around.
For giggles I sat the tube on top of the riser- easily gets the whole antenna above the roof-line but between the weight of the antenna assembly and the wind load I expect, I think the bracket will crack over time. I pulled the riser off and bolted the antenna to the bracket and connected the antenna feed line from the radio.
The results are very good. I'm hitting repeaters loud-&-clear I usually can't hit from my driveway. The signal is getting in and out of the tube just fine. The Sheriffs' and fire freqs are coming in better than the previous as well.
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Merddin
Member
- 91
- -1
- 6
- Location
- Cape Girardeau, MO
Primered and sanded my brushgaurd
Assel
Member
- 197
- 7
- 16
- Location
- Germany Schwarzwald-Baar
threw some grease on the pitman arm connections today, had a clunk noise when turning left, now its solved no more "weird" noises on turning any direction, she´s ready for road safety inspection now..illegal to drive without that in germany ..lets hope I can post more in the future, M1009 was sitting for quite a time... 