• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,319
113
Location
Schertz TX
Also road tested the Coopers. Speedometer is now spot on, no sensible loss of acceleration. The tires seem to wander a bit, going to monitor the wear of the molding vent sprues to see if a bit more toe out will help tracking.

No noticeable noise over highway BFG Commercial TAs. Had one emergency stop from 45 MPH, tires stuck to the road like cat claws.
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,319
113
Location
Schertz TX
I cleaned a year and a half of divorce dirt from the 1031. And got the generator running again, the 12 volt tap off the fuse block had been pulled out. Compressor filled the tank. Windows cleaned and monthly PMCS performed. Sent an oil sample off.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Installed the electric washer pump from 88-93 models... oh my gosh those nozzles make jet streams of water now
I need to do that also. Mine works intermittently. You push the lever and maybe in a few minutes the water sprays out ! Now did your 88-93 model fit right up, or did you need to fiddle with it ?
 

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
I need to do that also. Mine works intermittently. You push the lever and maybe in a few minutes the water sprays out ! Now did your 88-93 model fit right up, or did you need to fiddle with it ?
Going to require fiddling. The connector to the pump is different. I got the whole assembly from a junk yard was able to get the new connector to the pump just strip the wires.
The washer tank is different too.
Also have the wipers from an 88 model where the fluid shoots out from each wiper itself. Going to try to get that to work.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Installed the electric washer pump from 88-93 models... oh my gosh those nozzles make jet streams of water now
FYI, all gm trucks from 1985 used an electric washer pump mounted to the washer fluid reservoir mounted to the drivers fender. They also used the wiper arms with the nozzles in them-not all models though, my 1991 GMT400 series still used the nozzles mounted in the cowl. The connector still needs to be swapped, but that should give a wider range of vehicles to search for parts.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
Washers from the wipers completed:

You do have to drill 1 hole next to the passenger wiper to feed the hose through. Make sure you get all the burrs off. Also male sure you get official vatozone washer tube not random from the house tube so that it doesnt leak all over.

https://youtu.be/T_xIq8eGTEw


Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

84M1008GREENMACHINE

New member
2
0
0
Location
Apex, NC
Recently tried to install a new water pump in my 84 CUCV M1008. I noticed it was leaking coolant, and when it started leaking faster than I could refill it, I parked it and got to work. DO NOT order a new water pump from Advanced Auto under the K30 model. When I went to put the new water pump on from Advanced Auto, it was almost exactly identical except for a small bump that kept a bracket from fitting on properly. So I was left with a couple choices, A) Adapt the bracket to fit around the new water pump, B) find and buy the correct water pump, or C) use old water pump with new gasket. My old water pump was in good shape, only 53k miles on it, but the old gasket was nonexistent when I took it off (most likely causing the leak), so I went with option C as I needed a quick fix because this is my daily. I put it all back together and no more leak!

P.S. HELP

1. When I reach 35 mph, the truck begins to shake harshly. It only happens around 35, and only sometimes. For instance, if I reached 35 from a stop and it started to shake, I could speed through it past 35 and it would be fine. However sometimes when I reached the dreaded 35, it seems to be fine, just a minor shake. I've done some research and found that it could be a number of things. I've bought two new 37" tires today and going to replace the fronts and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll probably look at the bearing and kingpins. Suggestions?

2. I'm new to the site, my name is Christian, 20, this is my first post.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Recently tried to install a new water pump in my 84 CUCV M1008. I noticed it was leaking coolant, and when it started leaking faster than I could refill it, I parked it and got to work. DO NOT order a new water pump from Advanced Auto under the K30 model. When I went to put the new water pump on from Advanced Auto, it was almost exactly identical except for a small bump that kept a bracket from fitting on properly. So I was left with a couple choices, A) Adapt the bracket to fit around the new water pump, B) find and buy the correct water pump, or C) use old water pump with new gasket. My old water pump was in good shape, only 53k miles on it, but the old gasket was nonexistent when I took it off (most likely causing the leak), so I went with option C as I needed a quick fix because this is my daily. I put it all back together and no more leak!

P.S. HELP

1. When I reach 35 mph, the truck begins to shake harshly. It only happens around 35, and only sometimes. For instance, if I reached 35 from a stop and it started to shake, I could speed through it past 35 and it would be fine. However sometimes when I reached the dreaded 35, it seems to be fine, just a minor shake. I've done some research and found that it could be a number of things. I've bought two new 37" tires today and going to replace the fronts and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll probably look at the bearing and kingpins. Suggestions?

2. I'm new to the site, my name is Christian, 20, this is my first post.
There is also a problem with the front axle "U-joints" seizing. This can cause the "Death Rattle" too. Though usually it is all the time not interment like you described. I would say from your description it is the front wheels being out of balance or tire separation going on.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,467
10,402
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Recently tried to install a new water pump in my 84 CUCV M1008. I noticed it was leaking coolant, and when it started leaking faster than I could refill it, I parked it and got to work. DO NOT order a new water pump from Advanced Auto under the K30 model. When I went to put the new water pump on from Advanced Auto, it was almost exactly identical except for a small bump that kept a bracket from fitting on properly. So I was left with a couple choices, A) Adapt the bracket to fit around the new water pump, B) find and buy the correct water pump, or C) use old water pump with new gasket. My old water pump was in good shape, only 53k miles on it, but the old gasket was nonexistent when I took it off (most likely causing the leak), so I went with option C as I needed a quick fix because this is my daily. I put it all back together and no more leak!

P.S. HELP

1. When I reach 35 mph, the truck begins to shake harshly. It only happens around 35, and only sometimes. For instance, if I reached 35 from a stop and it started to shake, I could speed through it past 35 and it would be fine. However sometimes when I reached the dreaded 35, it seems to be fine, just a minor shake. I've done some research and found that it could be a number of things. I've bought two new 37" tires today and going to replace the fronts and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll probably look at the bearing and kingpins. Suggestions?

2. I'm new to the site, my name is Christian, 20, this is my first post.
That issue with the generator 2 lower bracket was even present on GM water pumps towards the end when they were still GM pumps. Now they are marketed as A C Delco and they are the same as all parts. World wide market. They work fine I have installed many over the years. The modification to the Generator 2 bracket is minor. Keep in mind to do the modification with the studs in place. A lot less material needs to be removed and you can angle grind most of it so it will never be noticed. I never recall looking at a bracket to see how it is shaped. Done right with a 2" grinder/sander it goes unnoticed. Good Luck with that 30 year old water pump. If you go in that far I change them whether they are leaking or not. Also the front main seal is easy to change at that time. Happy Holidays.
 

84M1008GREENMACHINE

New member
2
0
0
Location
Apex, NC
Recently tried to install a new water pump in my 84 CUCV M1008. I noticed it was leaking coolant, and when it started leaking faster than I could refill it, I parked it and got to work. DO NOT order a new water pump from Advanced Auto under the K30 model. When I went to put the new water pump on from Advanced Auto, it was almost exactly identical except for a small bump that kept a bracket from fitting on properly. So I was left with a couple choices, A) Adapt the bracket to fit around the new water pump, B) find and buy the correct water pump, or C) use old water pump with new gasket. My old water pump was in good shape, only 53k miles on it, but the old gasket was nonexistent when I took it off (most likely causing the leak), so I went with option C as I needed a quick fix because this is my daily. I put it all back together and no more leak!

P.S. HELP

1. When I reach 35 mph, the truck begins to shake harshly. It only happens around 35, and only sometimes. For instance, if I reached 35 from a stop and it started to shake, I could speed through it past 35 and it would be fine. However sometimes when I reached the dreaded 35, it seems to be fine, just a minor shake. I've done some research and found that it could be a number of things. I've bought two new 37" tires today and going to replace the fronts and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll probably look at the bearing and kingpins. Suggestions?

2. I'm new to the site, my name is Christian, 20, this is my first post.
After some diagnosing, I found that the recurring 35mph death wobble problem was due to a broken belt in my front driver tire. Put on my spare (the new tires/wheels I bought had a different offset), fixed the problem! Now on to the next project.. rear differential keeps locking up on turns and hills.
 

Russm

Active member
244
69
28
Location
Ft. Wainwright, AK
My rear diff did that for a bit after I put a new Detroit locker in there. Then one day there was a big big clunk and its worked normally ever since.
I atributted it to getting stuck on burrs left from manufacturing, until they wore/broke off.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
After some diagnosing, I found that the recurring 35mph death wobble problem was due to a broken belt in my front driver tire. Put on my spare (the new tires/wheels I bought had a different offset), fixed the problem! Now on to the next project.. rear differential keeps locking up on turns and hills.
I'm glad we could help you. Like I posted, you gotta watch those tires. Separation in tires is more common then you would realize.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,319
113
Location
Schertz TX
I had one on the RF with BFG Commercial TAs. These are high pressure tires, the belts are heavily loaded. Age is most important as rubber cracks ever so invisibly, letting water in. When the belts fail, the carcass becomes donut shaped instead of a wide, flat tread.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks