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My M1008 comes back from the body shop tomorrow. It got a new pax door and fender from a mishap with a red Ford Ranger. Apparently, the ranger could not see the CUCV as it has a woodland camo paint design....
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It's the worst. You do everything right and sometimes things still go wrong. Like Tinstar says, "it happens".Dropped off a spare starter and 2 alternators at the local shop for rebuild on Thursday morning. Thursday afternoon the starter on my M1028A3 quit at the gas station. Had to have my wife tow my tow truck home. Karma is a #$/=$.
Thanks for the info. Both axles are 8 lug at the moment. I'd like to keep it that way.Rutjes, you posted "I think you guys are on to something. It IS different. One of the previous owners must have swapped the complete axle for one with different drums. Explains the faded blueish tint on the diff, doesn't look like a factory color to me.
I was near the truck today so went and got a close-up photo." a while back.
I have a 1980 K-5 Blazer in addition to my m1009 and after tearing up a couple stock rear ends years ago, I swapped out the rear diff for one off a Suburban with a full floating 14 bolt like what you have. I changed it to disc brakes with the El Dorado calipers. I will agree the calipers are a real pain to get set up and they did not work at all for a while. I finally took them apart to understand them and in my case I had them on the wrong sides of the axle so setting the brake released then and releasing the brake allowed them to try and "set" but without enough pressure to do much more than drag. Once I got it figured out and adjusted, I couldn't be happier, now when I set the brake the vehicle does not move at all, no moving an inch or so, just holds the rear wheels tight. Even on a hill they hold solid which in my case is a bigger deal as it is a manual transmission with out a parking pawl like the automatics. Also there are kits available to convert a full floating 14 bolt to disc brake AND 6 lug hubs so your front and rear wheels can be the same bolt pattern unless like mine the front axle was converted to 8 lug as well because the 6 lug hub kit wasn't available at the time I did my 1980. Regardless I hope this sheds a little light on your situation. The Suburban rear end is almost a direct bolt in except for the spring perches. The position of the perches is perfect it is the Suburban springs are too long to use on a K-5 or M1009 and the center bolt on the K-5/M1009 is too small to fit snugly in the centering hole on the 14 bolt spring perch. I just took out the springs removed the center bolt bought the correct size for the 14 bolt and re-drilled the center hole in each leaf and put the spring pack back together, then it was a bolt in conversion.
Please use paragraphsAutomatics have a "parking pawl" that engages the drive shaft out-put but the engine acts as if it is in neutral. If the transmission is shifted into park while moving it makes a horrible noise as the pawl tries to engage a detent and normally tears things up pretty good if it can engage while the vehicle is moving. If it isn't abused it works fine but heavy loads on a slope it can eventually cause it to bind enough that the transmission can't be shifted out of park with out a little push from another vehicle to unbind it. I had a neighbor that had a steep drive way and never used the parking brake until one day I had to push her car a little to shift it out of park. It happened several more time until they sold the car, I was getting tired of having to help so they could avoid fixing it. That was a Turbo-350, the M1009 has a Turbo 400 which is quite a bit stronger but over time it could suffer the same problem, wheel chocks and or setting the parking brake will probably avoid the problem in your case. When I have the situation you described I like to have a nice solid block to pull up to and ease into it until the load is stopped with the block, then shift into park and set the brake. That way the parking pawl isn't the only thing holding the load. Many people don't use the "parking brake" a.k.a. "e-brake" but I take the "belt and suspenders" approach to try to avoid the "oh Crap" moment when ever possible. That being said I am guilty of seriously over loading things from time to time so I guess I learn from living on the edge and try to compensate when and where I can. Parking a manual in gear uses the engine to block the drive shaft which works fine most of the time, but in my younger days I had vehicles with well worn engines that would turn over when in gear and still roll down hill because the compression would not hold the load back, also diesels like the M35A2 will start if bumped if the fuel isn't closed off completely. The 6.2 won't because the fuel is shut off with a solenoid valve in the injection pump. Sorry if I ramble on too much, I can put my wife to sleep with my long winded explanations.
Thanks, that clears some things up to me. On a slope with a load I pull the e-brake first and then put it in gear so the engine/trans doesn't get strained unless the e-brake can't hold the load. That's my thinking at least...Automatics have a "parking pawl" that engages the drive shaft out-put but the engine acts as if it is in neutral. If the transmission is shifted into park while moving it makes a horrible noise as the pawl tries to engage a detent and normally tears things up pretty good if it can engage while the vehicle is moving. If it isn't abused it works fine but heavy loads on a slope it can eventually cause it to bind enough that the transmission can't be shifted out of park with out a little push from another vehicle to unbind it. I had a neighbor that had a steep drive way and never used the parking brake until one day I had to push her car a little to shift it out of park. It happened several more time until they sold the car, I was getting tired of having to help so they could avoid fixing it. That was a Turbo-350, the M1009 has a Turbo 400 which is quite a bit stronger but over time it could suffer the same problem, wheel chocks and or setting the parking brake will probably avoid the problem in your case. When I have the situation you described I like to have a nice solid block to pull up to and ease into it until the load is stopped with the block, then shift into park and set the brake. That way the parking pawl isn't the only thing holding the load. Many people don't use the "parking brake" a.k.a. "e-brake" but I take the "belt and suspenders" approach to try to avoid the "oh Crap" moment when ever possible. That being said I am guilty of seriously over loading things from time to time so I guess I learn from living on the edge and try to compensate when and where I can. Parking a manual in gear uses the engine to block the drive shaft which works fine most of the time, but in my younger days I had vehicles with well worn engines that would turn over when in gear and still roll down hill because the compression would not hold the load back, also diesels like the M35A2 will start if bumped if the fuel isn't closed off completely. The 6.2 won't because the fuel is shut off with a solenoid valve in the injection pump. Sorry if I ramble on too much, I can put my wife to sleep with my long winded explanations.
There is no such thing as a civilian dash pad.Quick question that I cant seem to find an answer to. Will a 1980 civilian dash pad fit my M1008?
Your M1008 is a standard Chevy pickup, just like the ones that rolled off the assembly line and went to any Chevy dealer in the U.S. It might have been blue, green, white, or whatever. The only differences are:Quick question that I cant seem to find an answer to. Will a 1980 civilian dash pad fit my M1008?
Being a taxpayer, and from what I read about Defense Procurement, maybe there was a little difference in cost also.Your M1008 is a standard Chevy pickup, just like the ones that rolled off the assembly line and went to any Chevy dealer in the U.S. It might have been blue, green, white, or whatever. The only differences are:
I think that's about it. In other words, if it fits a civvy truck, it fits yours.
- Paint job.
- Funny numbers painted on the bumper.
Very well-said!!!For basically a stripped truck they were quite expensive. But what Uncle Sam got was all the heavy duty off the shelf parts that would fit on the particular vehicle and a few items mentioned like the 24 volt/12 volt electrical system that were unique to satisfy the need to be NATO compatible for jump starting. Tax payer got the short end but then again it was less cost than a purpose built vehicle which eventually they got with the Humvee. So many ways to look at it, good, bad, all depends on your point of view. It was an interesting experiment that was neither an out right success nor a complete failure, but in the end it provided some fun toys at a reasonable cost for all of us.
No electrical expertise here, but can you explain why a 1) relay is a better alternative to a 2) switch?I wanted to install a new headlight harness that uses relays to control the lights, so they get power directly from the battery. End up brighter and takes all of the load off the headlight switch as it only triggers the relays now. That went in easily but I had to order new headlight retainer rings as the ones were missing tabs to hold the lights, so I couldn't finish installing the lights.
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