Salty dog
Active member
- 112
- 175
- 43
- Location
- Spring, Texas
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
Salty dog
Active member
- 112
- 175
- 43
- Location
- Spring, Texas
Pulled the old dash pad, replaced the instrument panel cover with one from EBay, and painted the dash to get it ready for the new dash pad, also took the ash tray and used the sandblast cabinet to remove 35 years of crud.
Attachments
LT67
Well-known member
- 655
- 501
- 93
- Location
- Bowdon, GA
Stopped by the shop today and the cucv brushguard is almost done with the modifications for the OLD Warn 8274. Once the new control pack gets here next week, it'll be ready to go.
**I'm thankful to have a good mech that can also do fabrication work
**I'm thankful to have a good mech that can also do fabrication work
Attachments
Cory1337
Member
- 29
- 28
- 18
- Location
- Terre Haute, IN
Adjusted the idle screw to increase the idle slightly. Was having a drone/vibration problem when stopped in drive or reverse. Read somewhere on here about how just increasing the idle a fraction will fix it. Thanks whoever you are!!!
Also discovered a leaking radiator... It's leaking around the top drivers side. Just a weep but enough I could smell it the last few times I drove it. Going to pull it tomorrow and investigate.
Merry Christmas!!!
Also discovered a leaking radiator... It's leaking around the top drivers side. Just a weep but enough I could smell it the last few times I drove it. Going to pull it tomorrow and investigate.
Merry Christmas!!!
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,466
- 10,400
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Drone vibration. Are you sure it was not the fuel door on the bed side vibrating or the skid plate on the fuel tank? Also the air cleaner housing could be loose or cracked and vibrate. Hard telling. These old rattle traps can vibrate granite to sand in a few years. Merry Christmas back at you.
LT67
Well-known member
- 655
- 501
- 93
- Location
- Bowdon, GA
My most recent vibration at idle was a loose fender support bracket on the bed by a wheel well lol
Cory1337
Member
- 29
- 28
- 18
- Location
- Terre Haute, IN
Not the fuel door, m1010. It was like the whole truck was vibrating at its harmonic. I could just breathe on the skinny peddle and the vibration and drone was gone. I plan to replace the motor and transmission mounts, but a screw driver on the idle screw has me fixed up for now.
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas!
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,466
- 10,400
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Now that you described it that way. Throttle pedal needs taken off the firewall. After it is off and cleaned it needs lightly greased and reinstalled. i had several that had that same issue with the throttle pedal. after 35 years grease and lubrication tend to disappear. Merry Christmas.
shotty
Active member
- 211
- 56
- 28
- Location
- Northern VA :(
Looks like I got myself a radiator leak. Few years ago I tried tracking down a copper 4 row radiator and seems I just missed the last of those being available. Probably just get a parts store aluminum/plastic one for now and keep trying radiator shops until I find someone that will recore my OEM unit.
- 596
- 693
- 93
- Location
- Okinawa, Japan
Just completed installing a new lift pump. A PITA for sure but I was okay with everything until... pump installed and hard line tight... the hose fitting was touching the engine crossmember. A little massage and it was clear. The hose proved to be a real pain... it leaked after installation... I found a crack near the end and so I trimed the line and installed again. I bled the line at the filter with the pjnk wire removed from the fuel shutoff. Got her started and now she's idling in the driveway. D TAM readiness is up.
Happy New year!
A shout out to Cucvrus for pointing out the correct pump in multiple posts. I got the right one on the first try because of his posts.
Happy New year!
A shout out to Cucvrus for pointing out the correct pump in multiple posts. I got the right one on the first try because of his posts.
Last edited:
- 359
- 272
- 63
- Location
- Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Got the frame back. Blasted, metal sprayed, epoxy primed and painted black. Bolting everything together using a lot of ceramic grease on the bolts and nylon insert lock nuts. Finally something is getting put back together instead of being torn apart.
Decided to use ORD front main, front upper and rear main spring hangers. It'll match nicely with the ORD shackle flip kit. Will have to wait a bit before I can order those unfortunatly.... Should I add ORD motor mounts to that order, or keep the clamshells with Energy Suspension inserts?
Decided to use ORD front main, front upper and rear main spring hangers. It'll match nicely with the ORD shackle flip kit. Will have to wait a bit before I can order those unfortunatly.... Should I add ORD motor mounts to that order, or keep the clamshells with Energy Suspension inserts?
- 596
- 693
- 93
- Location
- Okinawa, Japan
Very nice. I hope to finish painting my frame this week and start hanging parts as well.
Why not get the ORD mounts and the crossover if your already investing in their gear. I know they fab some strong pieces. I'd go with their stuff and sometimes do when I can't fab it myself.
Happy New Year.
- 359
- 272
- 63
- Location
- Amersfoort, The Netherlands
If I do change the crossmember, I'd go for this one I think... Fits right in there with the other ORD gear, much better then their own crossover.
- 596
- 693
- 93
- Location
- Okinawa, Japan
Looks good but the fuel pump may not clear that. I just replaced the lift pump on my 1028 today and they practically touch. I'm glad I'm fabbing a replacement crossmember for my 1008 to clear a HMMWV 6.5 TD... and anything else that may have been squeezed in there.
- 1,836
- 987
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
Hey Curt please post photos on that replacement crossmember. I may need one myself to clear the girdle of my P400. I’m not concerned about the fuel pump because I am changing to electric pump.
- 596
- 693
- 93
- Location
- Okinawa, Japan
I will once I fabricate it. I need to put the frame back together first and mount the engine so I know where to start.
Or are you looking for pics of the ORD crossmember?
- 1,836
- 987
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
No I have pics of the ORD crossmember. Was just curious about how you were going to fabricate yours.
LT67
Well-known member
- 655
- 501
- 93
- Location
- Bowdon, GA
The OLD 8274 is mounted, just have to finish up the wiring..
Attachments
- 596
- 693
- 93
- Location
- Okinawa, Japan
That's a beast. I like it. I had a milemarker 10,500K hydraulic winch mounted in much the same way. When I tore my truck down to rebuild it I found that I was tearing one of the bumper mounts.
If I can find the pictures I will edit and add them here later. In my case because the axis of the pull was above the bumper mount it always pulled down. That caused the top of the bumper mount (behind the humper) to start to tear.
Edit: Damn. I never took any pics of the winch mount or the damaged piece.
Last edited:
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,466
- 10,400
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Just a tip. If you have the engine hanging that low in the mounts may I recommend swapping a set of Energy Suspension motor mount inserts in the housings. That will always be a wear point on the fuel pump and line. The drivers side the stud on the dipstick will touch the frame or get real close when the motor mounts are worn. I replaced many of these. And while you are at it do the transmission transfer case mounts. All these rubber bushings are worn out at this point.