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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

SomeNewGuy

Member
59
95
18
Location
VA
Only just bought it last Sunday, M1009

Changed all the fluids, belts and replaced the broken headlight and tail light.

Attacking the rusted out wheel wells and rocker panels when new parts arrive but until then the small bits of rust here and there.

I have no dash or instrument panel. I have the spedometer (no workie) and the fuel gauge (seems to work, at least it goes down as I test drive around the property.)
 

latvius

Member
64
13
8
Location
Ariton Alabama
Only just bought it last Sunday, M1009

Changed all the fluids, belts and replaced the broken headlight and tail light.

Attacking the rusted out wheel wells and rocker panels when new parts arrive but until then the small bits of rust here and there.

I have no dash or instrument panel. I have the spedometer (no workie) and the fuel gauge (seems to work, at least it goes down as I test drive around the property.)
Pictures are cheap and would make the post so much better :)
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Windshield fogging up on defrost.... slight coolant smell.....

Might be time to have a look at the heater core. :mad:

How much work is involved in getting at that thing? Are new cores even available?
 

SomeNewGuy

Member
59
95
18
Location
VA
While I paitently await the arrival of the new headlight assembly, I decided to attack the rust spots. The major bits (such as wheel wells and rocker panels) will just be replaced in the future.

Wire wheel followed up with 80 grit sandpaper and rust converter to get all the rust out, then bondo and self etching primer followed up with some rustoleum battle rattle.

Not too concerned how the paint job looks as she will be getting covered in Rapor liner down the road.

As a side note, any ideas on how to handle those cracks near the corners? I know Ill have to get the rust inside the tailgate but how should I close those holes...
 

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Mullaney

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Supporting Vendor
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Charlotte NC
While I paitently await the arrival of the new headlight assembly, I decided to attack the rust spots. The major bits (such as wheel wells and rocker panels) will just be replaced in the future.

Wire wheel followed up with 80 grit sandpaper and rust converter to get all the rust out, then bondo and self etching primer followed up with some rustoleum battle rattle.

Not too concerned how the paint job looks as she will be getting covered in Rapor liner down the road.

As a side note, any ideas on how to handle those cracks near the corners? I know Ill have to get the rust inside the tailgate but how should I close those holes...
.
Being nothing more than a "hack" when it comes to fixing something like that crack - I would get myself a drill bit maybe 1/8th or do and go to the end of every spider looking crack like that - to stop if from tearing any further. Might want to have a larger diameter hole on wider cracks... And then it may be time to learn how to weld sheetmetal.

All that is easily said by the guy who has WATCHED other do it. (but not actually done any more than drill the holes!)
 

latvius

Member
64
13
8
Location
Ariton Alabama
While I paitently await the arrival of the new headlight assembly, I decided to attack the rust spots. The major bits (such as wheel wells and rocker panels) will just be replaced in the future.

Wire wheel followed up with 80 grit sandpaper and rust converter to get all the rust out, then bondo and self etching primer followed up with some rustoleum battle rattle.

Not too concerned how the paint job looks as she will be getting covered in Rapor liner down the road.

As a side note, any ideas on how to handle those cracks near the corners? I know Ill have to get the rust inside the tailgate but how should I close those holes...
I'd start with removing the paint around the crack to see how much is crack and how much is rust. My guess is rust then I would grind that crack until you have clean metal, shape another piece of metal same thickness as the hole you created and tack weld it shut being careful not to overheat it (warp). Then cover it with bondo sand and paint.
 

SomeNewGuy

Member
59
95
18
Location
VA
I'd start with removing the paint around the crack to see how much is crack and how much is rust. My guess is rust then I would grind that crack until you have clean metal, shape another piece of metal same thickness as the hole you created and tack weld it shut being careful not to overheat it (warp). Then cover it with bondo sand and paint.
Ill probably end up taking it to someone... the more I grind out the rust the more I find stuff like this. The paint is just to keep the fresh metal safe until I figure out if I want to chance fixing it myself, and investing in a MIG.

On the bright side, I have a drain to easily hose out the interior lol
 

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latvius

Member
64
13
8
Location
Ariton Alabama
Ill probably end up taking it to someone... the more I grind out the rust the more I find stuff like this. The paint is just to keep the fresh metal safe until I figure out if I want to chance fixing it myself, and investing in a MIG.

On the bright side, I have a drain to easily hose out the interior lol
Invest in the welder, plenty of youtube on how to use it well. Body work is expensive and no guarantee it was done right. Plus a welder can be used for so much more.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Windshield fogging up on defrost.... slight coolant smell.....

Might be time to have a look at the heater core. :mad:

How much work is involved in getting at that thing? Are new cores even available?
Remove the glove compartment, screws on the bottom of the hinge. Disconnect the draft door cables and heater hoses. Then remove the nuts on the firewall (4 IIRC).
There is a screw joining the heater box to defrost plenum, remove this and the box should come out. If you have the M8 alarm bracket, it may need to be removed.

Clean it out good, use high temperature HVAC foam tape to seal the new core, replacement cores can leak air.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Puget Sound, WA
Remove the glove compartment, screws on the bottom of the hinge. Disconnect the draft door cables and heater hoses. Then remove the nuts on the firewall (4 IIRC).
There is a screw joining the heater box to defrost plenum, remove this and the box should come out. If you have the M8 alarm bracket, it may need to be removed.

Clean it out good, use high temperature HVAC foam tape to seal the new core, replacement cores can leak air.
Ordered the core just now. NAPA has it for $50 and RockAuto has it for $42. I was going to go NAPA since they're local but their projected delivery date was later; so why spend more?
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Ordered the core just now. NAPA has it for $50 and RockAuto has it for $42. I was going to go NAPA since they're local but their projected delivery date was later; so why spend more?
I've taken pics on the sealing the new cores so all the air goes through the fins. I had replaced the seal on my RV rooftop AC and had leftover foam sealing materials. Plus I always have aluminum foil tape.
 

royalflush55

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Reydon, OK
One of the new aluminum heater cores properly installed and sealed will provide nearly as much heat as an August day in Oklahoma! :LOL:

Well maybe not quite that much but it is a lot warmer in cold weather!
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
502
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
The new steering box is installed on the 86 m1008. Just waiting on the new front shocks to get here..

**the old shocks were completely worn out.. didn't take much effort to move them in n out by hand lol
 
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