Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,319
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
The regular flavor anti seize is zinc based. Fine for aluminum. Copper is better for exhaust heat since zinc boils soon after melting.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
- 652
- 529
- 93
- Location
- Reydon, OK
Loctite premium quality copper anti-seize is recommended for spark plugs in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, and battery cable connections.
It should not be used on stainless steel. Nickel based is best for this application.
It should not be used on stainless steel. Nickel based is best for this application.
Got the truck in the shop for it's yearly maintenance. Lots of things to do. Relocated the batteries from under the hood to inside the cab behind the seat. Got the wiring buttoned up today. Ordered new spindles, this time I'm running bushings instead of needle bearings since the last set didn't survive a year. More pics when parts get here.
- 7,696
- 19,723
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
Charging those lead acid batteries inside the cab of your truck might not be good for your health... Don't know if maybe you could build some sort of cover? Something to separate the crew compartment from the battery compartment?
Open fire in the cab of the truck could "make you go boom" without some sort of venting to the outside. Hydrogen gas is one of the byproducts of charging lead acid batteries. That stuff is wicked when combined with sparks or an open flame.
Last edited:
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,319
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
Those batteries appear to be valve regulated sealed lead acid type. This type uses a recombination catalyst that regenerates water from produced hydrogen and oxygen. This design is used in absorbed glass mat and flooded cells.
It is best to have a good voltmeter in case of regulator failure as very nasty gases can be generated.
This modification may extend the life of the batteries with somewhat lower temperature compared to under the bonnet.
It is best to have a good voltmeter in case of regulator failure as very nasty gases can be generated.
This modification may extend the life of the batteries with somewhat lower temperature compared to under the bonnet.
Last edited:
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,319
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
On weekly PMCS, found the left rear clearance marker lamp on the M1031 SECM inop. A few years ago, I bought an entire set of lamp housings, amber and red, so this was just an easy swap..if my left hand worked correctly. So I dropped 3 nuts and lost a washer but with plenty spares, it is fixed. The old housing was half bleached.
The new housings are sealed, an upgrade as corrosion had been the cause. Bulb is still good. Nice having replacement on hand. Last one replaced was right rear.
The new housings are sealed, an upgrade as corrosion had been the cause. Bulb is still good. Nice having replacement on hand. Last one replaced was right rear.
DarkSeas
Well-known member
- 201
- 309
- 63
- Location
- Leland, N.C.
Done recently:
Old engine wiring out and sent to HW with old PS pump to trade for vacuum regulator valve I found broken and hopefully a glow plug harness.
Valve covers and air cleaner taken off and painted black.
Injectors and glowplugs out.
Drilled broken starter bolt out, all good.
Took off alternators and sent them to a local shop for inspection/rebuild/cleanup.
Next steps:
Get correct valve cover fasteners (thanks DIVE, cucvrus, ezgn, Keith) and replace valve cover gaskets.
Install new glow plugs and injectors.
Install new (soft) vacuum lines and vacuum regulator valve when I get a replacement in from HW.
Install painted valve covers, new intake gaskets, cleaned intake manifold, and painted air cleaner.
Oil change, filter change, fuel and air filter change.
Install new 24V starter (and bracket
)
Replace belts and bolt up new PS pump.
Get my alternators back and mounted.
Rewire motor with fresh harness - this will probably take me the most time trying to get right, getting everything to work right.
Get motor to fire up (hard part), then move into getting her driving again - need to replace my sacked out front leaf springs and my driveshaft ujoints, front to rear, check out why my transfer case is leaking. Should probably figure out why my DS tail light doesn't light up anymore, too, but that's not important right now.
Old engine wiring out and sent to HW with old PS pump to trade for vacuum regulator valve I found broken and hopefully a glow plug harness.
Valve covers and air cleaner taken off and painted black.
Injectors and glowplugs out.
Drilled broken starter bolt out, all good.
Took off alternators and sent them to a local shop for inspection/rebuild/cleanup.
Next steps:
Get correct valve cover fasteners (thanks DIVE, cucvrus, ezgn, Keith) and replace valve cover gaskets.
Install new glow plugs and injectors.
Install new (soft) vacuum lines and vacuum regulator valve when I get a replacement in from HW.
Install painted valve covers, new intake gaskets, cleaned intake manifold, and painted air cleaner.
Oil change, filter change, fuel and air filter change.
Install new 24V starter (and bracket
)Replace belts and bolt up new PS pump.
Get my alternators back and mounted.
Rewire motor with fresh harness - this will probably take me the most time trying to get right, getting everything to work right.
Get motor to fire up (hard part), then move into getting her driving again - need to replace my sacked out front leaf springs and my driveshaft ujoints, front to rear, check out why my transfer case is leaking. Should probably figure out why my DS tail light doesn't light up anymore, too, but that's not important right now.
LT67
Well-known member
- 655
- 501
- 93
- Location
- Bowdon, GA
New AC compressor and a 3/8 synthetic winch line for the 86 M1008. It's nice having the AC working again...
Attachments
- 1,367
- 949
- 113
- Location
- State College, PA
Yesterday I removed a defective wiper motor, connected the new one up before installing it...Dead out of the box!
I'm glad I tested it prior to installing it. So off to Auto Zone today to get replacements on order.
I'm glad I tested it prior to installing it. So off to Auto Zone today to get replacements on order.
- 7,696
- 19,723
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
So nice when you figure it out before expending the effort to install a broken (defective) part.
Last edited:
- 1,367
- 949
- 113
- Location
- State College, PA
Yes, after a few times on various projects, I have finally learned to test items out of the box. Seems like there is no QC any more.
Stopped at Autozone, new ones will be here tomorrow. Hopefully they will work out of the box.
GunnyM1009
Well-known member
- 354
- 529
- 93
- Location
- Roanoke/Alabama
Rebuilt the transmission
Rebuilt the transfer case
Degreasing and painting the undercarriage before they go back in.
Rebuilt the transfer case
Degreasing and painting the undercarriage before they go back in.
GunnyM1009
Well-known member
- 354
- 529
- 93
- Location
- Roanoke/Alabama
Converted rear bus to 12v using Antennaclimber mod to install Magnum Dimensions 1000w 12v inverter in the rear. Working on flushing Dot 3/4 brake fluid out from previous owner. Rebuilding brake system and restoring back to Dot 5.
- 657
- 1,150
- 93
- Location
- Chester County, PA
Working on overdrive...
Attachments
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,319
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
The onboard air system in my M1031 SECM started leaking overnight. Pumped it up and sprayed fittings with soapy water. Both input flare fitting and the output Milton coupler were leaking. Replaced the coupler and tightened the flare fittings.
Figured it was a good time to check tire pressures. Then overhauled the leaking coupler, a little corrosion on the plug was easily lapped with a piece of 1/4" copper tube and valve grinding compound. Slathered silicone grease on the plug and put it all back together.
Figured it was a good time to check tire pressures. Then overhauled the leaking coupler, a little corrosion on the plug was easily lapped with a piece of 1/4" copper tube and valve grinding compound. Slathered silicone grease on the plug and put it all back together.
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,319
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
Nice. NV4500?
- 657
- 1,150
- 93
- Location
- Chester County, PA
Yes, nv4500...
Attachments
- 657
- 1,150
- 93
- Location
- Chester County, PA
First road test... 4Lo 1st Gear. 66.8:1 ratio
- 753
- 1,332
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
Slowly getting small things painted for my m1028. Next week be painting the new fenders and hood. Love the rapco 383 green.
- 753
- 1,332
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
Front 6" lift installed. Now on to the rear.
