What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[the skull]

The old 1008 is back on the road, and on the job once again!

 

[cucvrus]

I think they are want the rear window regulator. Didn't you have a buddy that could build some?

Fair enough. I am sorry that my knowledge or lack of offends you. But as a matter of fact it is handy to have a tool and die maker as a personal friend. And on occassion we have made some of these gate parts as needed. As far as the rear window regulator NO I do not or will he attempt to make one. They are still readily available and the need and cost to fabricate one is NOT needed at this time. I will just keep a few new ones in stock for myself just in case. But if the rear window sash and guides are maintained and kept clean the regulator and rollers lubed well the regulator will last the life of the truck. Thanks for asking.

 

[AECS]

Added 3 gallons used motor oil to 20 gallons of diesel fuel and drove it 400 miles from Fallon Nevada to Lemoore California no problems at all. Averaged 21.7 MPG.

 

[olly hondro]

Parked it in the garage, closed the door, gave it "project" status while I think of what to do next. Installed the new Dana 60 kingpin springs & whatever those plastic cup pieces are called in an attempt to cure death wobble. Now its much much worse, its undriveable.

Its 100 degrees out, I have a thousand bucks into this front end with the crossover steering + 2WD steering box + D60 components, and just a little expansion crack in the pavement sets it off. I'm sweaty, tired, and have cried UNCLE.

 

[Wolfamongsheep]

Today I did the Doghead starter relay mod.

In the past two weeks I have installed 35w 4300K HIDs in projector lenses, with the LMC headlight wiring harness.
Also put in a headunit and mounted two 6x9 speakers under the seats.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Lately I've cleaned up some of the frame and rear axle and installed new rear brake shoes, seals, and parking brake cables. I pulled the fuel tank, cleaned it up and painted it. The crane also showed up, I've almost got the frame done to attach it.

 

[cucvrus]

Rebuilt the door strikers and put new hinge pin bushings in the cab doors. Genuine GM hinge bushings are still available. Realigned and lubed the doors and window tracks. Rebuilt the wing window latches. Everything closes much better and no annoying rattles and whistling sounds. With the exception of the hinge bushings all the parts are available at a hardware store. Did it on 4 trucks in the same day.

 

[PETE BALLARD]

The noise from under the hood of my M1028 has doubled in the last day, got underneath to inspect all items that rotate. I beleive the flex plate is broken/cracked- very easy to pry the ring gear rearward and see movement. Disassembly will reveil the problem. I remember reading about others having the same problem and having the problem repeat again because of buying aftermarket parts instead of OEM, I searched but could not find that original thread. Can anyone fill me in? Thanks- Pete
All motor + trans mounts are intact

 

[chief1983]

My flex plate did not crack but all the bolts fell out or wore through after being overloaded. Use some low strength thread lock and torque appropriately. Not a repair you want to do twice.

 

[unaffiliated]

@Pete: Check the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. I had a God Awful noise in my 1008 and thought it was the flex plate. I removed the inspection cover and found scrape marks on it where the flex plate had been hitting it. I had no choice but to keep driving it as it was my only transportation. I found out a few days later what the problem was when all **** broke loose. Turns out three of the trans bolts had loosened up and fell out causing the other three to shear off.

 

[cucvrus]

Good point Colonel. But in the event that the flexplate does need changed. No need to drop the entire transmission and transfer case. I changed many flexplates with the use of 4 - 3/8" X 4" grade 8 bolts. Disconnect everything and use a floor jack / transmission jack to support the transmission and transfer case. Let the crossmember in place on the transmission. Of course you must remove everything that will not allow the transmission to slide rearward 4". use the 2 side bolt holes on each side of the block. Slide the transmission and tranfer case back. Then just reach up remove the flywheel and replace it torque to spec and slide the trans back in place and put the OEM bolts back in place. You will need to remove the starter or at least bend the ear of the starter headshield carefully out of the way. It works and makes it easier then hoisting the entire assembly back in place. Of course I am assuming you don't have a lift. Use the same method on a lift. Makes it a one man job and about 4 hours. Replace the dip stick rubber seal and rear out put seal while you are there.

 

[PETE BALLARD]

@Pete: Check the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. I had a God Awful noise in my 1008 and thought it was the flex plate. I removed the inspection cover and found scrape marks on it where the flex plate had been hitting it. I had no choice but to keep driving it as it was my only transportation. I found out a few days later what the problem was when all **** broke loose. Turns out three of the trans bolts had loosened up and fell out causing the other three to shear off.

Everything is tight- no gaps between the engine/trans. No scraping inside the torque converter cavity and torque converter bolts tight to the flex plate- very easy to pry the ring gear rearward and see movement in the gear but no movement in what I can see of the crankshaft.

 

[PETE BALLARD]

Good point Colonel. But in the event that the flexplate does need changed. No need to drop the entire transmission and transfer case. I changed many flexplates with the use of 4 - 3/8" X 4" grade 8 bolts. Disconnect everything and use a floor jack / transmission jack to support the transmission and transfer case. Let the crossmember in place on the transmission. Of course you must remove everything that will not allow the transmission to slide reward 4". use the 2 side bolt holes on each side of the block. Slide the transmission and tranfer case back. Then just reach up remove the flywheel and replace it torque to spec and slide the trans back in place and put the OEM bolts back in place. You will need to remove the starter or at least bend the ear of the starter headshield carefully out of the way. It works and makes it easier then hoisting the entire assembly back in place. Of course I am assuming you don't have a lift. Use the same method on a lift. Makes it a one man job and about 4 hours. Replace the dip stick rubber seal and rear out put seal while you are there.

Thanks for the info- I am a fan of using the brain, it is our best tool! This is also my SOP when aligning transmissions when replacing a clutch- we must be brothers!

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Today I finished welding the frame for the crane and drilled the mounting holes and bolted it to the truck frame. I put the crane on to see what it will have for reach. Tomorrow, I'll prime and paint the frame and bolt it on for good.

The bed should sit right over it if I made it right.opcorn:

 

[Nowhereman]

Pulling the transmission out of my 1984 5/4 so I can have it rebuilt.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Today I finished welding the frame for the crane and drilled the mounting holes and bolted it to the truck frame. I put the crane on to see what it will have for reach. Tomorrow, I'll prime and paint the frame and bolt it on for good.

The bed should sit right over it if I made it right.opcorn:

I'd love to see a detailed write-up of this project. I got my truck to be a firewood hauler, and a crane like that would be a big help in loading 36" oak rounds!

Very nice!

 

[cucvrus]

Last night a lot of work was done. Changed the ballast resistors on the fire wall. Removed both battery trays and cleaned , sanded , primed and painted them with 3M rubberized undercoating. Sprayed the inner fenders and the aprons. Replaced the draw bar tubing that runs from frame rail to frame rail in the rear. Changed the oil and checked all the fluids greased the chassis and washed the inside and outside. Cleaned all the windows and installed LED overhead dome lamps. It is a bright as an emergency operating room. I think it is a good idea to check that rear draw bar on the M1009. They are made of tubing and most I see lately are rusted to the point that they should not be towing anything on the pintle. I bought 2 full lengths of tubing and made up about 12 of them. I upgraded the bolts from 7/16" to 1/2" grade 8 on everything. Easy fix the OEM bolts broke off in the tube nuts. The holes I enlarged with the step bit. I then changed all the bolts on the pintle mount. All bolts are grade 8. They were in rough shape.

 

[Red Dragon]

This is my snow plow truck 1986 m1008 owned for a year. Had a leaky injector pump so I replaced it with a new one, new harmonic balancer, both alternators rebuilt, the list for things to do is getting bigger. Today while troubleshooting the Gen 2 bulb notice fuel leak coming from the top front of fuel tank... while taking off fan shroud found leak in radiator... noticed oil leaks in engine pan while replacing timing chain seal.....

 

[SRB1976]

Installed new tail light lenses the other day.

 

[Drock]

Installed ah 12V outlet in the ash tray to charge cell phones and ah run radar detector. Painted the inside of the ash tray with bed liner to lessen the rattle of lose change. Took off the door panels and lubed the lock mech's ,rods and window regulators. Shot graphite lube into all key holes.