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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Alexandria, VA
Trouble shooting a short circuit in a 30 year old truck is simple compared to a any short circuit in a woman.

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Men are Simple.

Women are Complex.

It's kind of a rough commentary on our capabilities, if you think it through. But luckily thinking isn't really our strong suit! :naner::whistle:
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
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18
Location
Linsdale, TN
Men are Simple.

Women are Complex.

It's kind of a rough commentary on our capabilities, if you think it through. But luckily thinking isn't really our strong suit! :naner::whistle:
I can gap a set of points with a matchbook, but to fix computer controled electronic ignition requires a bunch of equipment and skills I don't have. Easier to discard the malfunctioning unit and get another.

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glaser06

Member
239
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Location
Red Stick, La
I can gap a set of points with a matchbook, but to fix computer controled electronic ignition requires a bunch of equipment and skills I don't have. Easier to discard the malfunctioning unit and get another.

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Even easier, throw away those points and drop in a pertronix!

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rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Even easier, throw away those points and drop in a pertronix!

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Pertronix units are a really good investment. I've used them since the 1970's and never had a problem with a one. The only thing I could complain about it is the availability for certain vehicles. I know they make a "universal" model but they usually have fitment issues. I like the "plug and play" units better.
 

KLRBILLY

New member
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1
Location
NC
Replaced my fuel pump yesterday. Pretty sure it was the original one. The high pressure line was stuck to the point I couldn't get it out even after I pulled the pump and put it in a vice. I cut the line to get it out and made a patch with a rubber line.


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cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Replaced my fuel pump yesterday. Pretty sure it was the original one. The high pressure line was stuck to the point I couldn't get it out even after I pulled the pump and put it in a vice. I cut the line to get it out and made a patch with a rubber line.

I have never seen a flared fitting I could NOT get loose with a good Snap-On flare nut wrench of the proper size. The fuel pressure line is a 5/8" flare nut. I have seen people try metric wrenches and fail. Also I do NOT trust Craftsman wrenches in tight situations. They have a tendency to spread open and strip flare nuts. Just my experience. But I would not trust having the rubber on the front side of the engine. That is just me. I would bend a new ne and use the attachments that are in place to secure the fuel line. You will be happier in the end. Too many moving parts up front to suit me. To each his own. But steel is the way to go on any front/top engine fuel line.
 

KLRBILLY

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I agree. It was a short term solution to get her back running. I'm going to pull the motor and do a complete rebuild and frame off rust proof in the near future.
I couldn't believe that thing wouldn't come out either. That's why I put it in a vice and tried. It literally started to break the whole housing apart and still didn't budge.
You wouldn't happen to know where I could get a new fuel line like that one would you?


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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I agree. It was a short term solution to get her back running. I'm going to pull the motor and do a complete rebuild and frame off rust proof in the near future.
I couldn't believe that thing wouldn't come out either. That's why I put it in a vice and tried. It literally started to break the whole housing apart and still didn't budge.
You wouldn't happen to know where I could get a new fuel line like that one would you?


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Make one or buy one. I will look around. Maybe. But I think making one is your best option.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
I have never seen a flared fitting I could NOT get loose with a good Snap-On flare nut wrench of the proper size. The fuel pressure line is a 5/8" flare nut. I have seen people try metric wrenches and fail. Also I do NOT trust Craftsman wrenches in tight situations. They have a tendency to spread open and strip flare nuts. Just my experience. But I would not trust having the rubber on the front side of the engine. That is just me. I would bend a new ne and use the attachments that are in place to secure the fuel line. You will be happier in the end. Too many moving parts up front to suit me. To each his own. But steel is the way to go on any front/top engine fuel line.[/QUOTE]

I also do not use rubber hoses in the front of the engine if I can help it. In the 1970's my friend had a Chrysler 440 cid engine and the fuel line got mangled. So he just installed some 3/8" rubber hose from the pump to the carb . The 440 engines have the distributor up front and his coil and the wires to it had seen better days. Well since he had installed a race cam in this engine it rattled a lot at idle. The rubber hose developed a small pin hole leak due to rubbing and wouldn't you know it the engine fan sprayed this atomized fuel into that arcing coil wire ! The engine fire that developed was quite spectacular to say the least ! Thankfully he always carried a quality fire extinguisher with him at all times. Though in the end it took three extinguishers to put out the fire. Come to think about it he never replaced mine ! Dave you owe me a fire extinguisher !
The moral of this story is to always use good fuel lines in the engine compartment !
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
YIKES!!!! :shock:

Car-B-Ques are bad. VERY bad. I'm thankful no one got hurt, Rustystud.
OD Fever. I always use the name Wile E Coyote Super Genius. I have a business card similar to that one with many of my services listed. Tigers tamed, computers verified, uprisings quelled, I like to be a full service guy. :)
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
YIKES!!!! :shock:

Car-B-Ques are bad. VERY bad. I'm thankful no one got hurt, Rustystud.
Thankfully it happened as he was driving up to the house we where sharing (roommates) when we were going to trade school.
He ran into house screaming his car was on fire. The flames where shooting up around the hood. They really took off when we opened it ! I remember I was shooting the extinguisher under the cars fender upwards towards the engine and Dave was shooting his at the top of the engine and Harold was on the other side of the car shooting his extinguisher at the bottom and top of the engine. With the three of us we got the fire out. It totally fried all his wiring though ! Thankfully the 1968 Charger didn't have that much wiring to replace as compared to todays cars.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Wow! So they are still selling cucvs. I would like another! How much if you dont mind?
Yes they are still selling CUCVs on occasion.

Yep. His win was the trailer.
Watch the auctions. Those go from anywhere from $500 to $1200+ depending on condition and location.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Puget Sound, WA
Yes they are still selling CUCVs on occasion.

Yep. His win was the trailer.
Watch the auctions. Those go from anywhere from $500 to $1200+ depending on condition and location.
$750

Everything is there and everything works. After a 50 mile drive home at 60MPH the hubs were barely lukewarm.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Edmond, Oklahoma
$750

Everything is there and everything works. After a 50 mile drive home at 60MPH the hubs were barely lukewarm.
I watched the GP Europe auction and they were almost giving them away. $150/$200
They had a boatload too. A few looked brand new.

Of course you had to go to Germany to get it.
 
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