- 1,500
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- Puget Sound, WA
All of a sudden my left turn signal doesn't work. Works with the four-ways, but not with the stalk. I'll be puzzling that one now. Nothing like an old truck.
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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
computer54
Member
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- 1
- 18
- Location
- Nashville,TN
It sounds like the switch in thesteering column and check the wires too.
cucvrus
Well-known member
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- Jonestown Pennsylvania
You have 2 flashers. 1 flasher serves the turn signals. The other serves the 4 way flashers. Before you get too excited check the flasher. Just switch the 2 . i think the lower one is the turn signals and the high 1 is the 4 ways. Give it a try and report back.
- 1,653
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- 113
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- Nova Laboratories, WA
If your right works but not the left, it's probably the switch. The switch is a cheap part but requires removing the steering wheel to fix. Not hard at all..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6kSNps1rPo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp5lURpXviM
Mine was funky, I pulled mine apart and cleaned it, then reseated a spring that came off.....
RobM36A2
Member
- 302
- 9
- 18
- Location
- The Netherlands
Found the culprits of the shifting issue, looks like I have to get some vacuum lines..
The rubber divider thingy in the palm of my hand is rotten too, but in my opinion just a part that can be discarded, right?
The rubber divider thingy in the palm of my hand is rotten too, but in my opinion just a part that can be discarded, right?
cucvrus
Well-known member
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- Jonestown Pennsylvania
The block is NOT needed as long as the top line goes to the transmission and the bottom line goes to the vacuum pump. I would reuse the nylon reducers and just change the line/hoses. But some people like that block on the VCM. NOT needed your option. What is this new page look? Strange I hope not permanent. But change is good.
- 888
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- 93
- Location
- Rhein-Main Area, Germany
Yesterday i did a small 160 Miles trip to pick up some parts.......
cucvrus
Well-known member
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- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Looks like a good haul. I thought I was the only one that saved and removed transmission cooler lines. I always seem to be able to copy a new set when I have an original uncut set to use as a template. I can't believe how many CUCV's I found with rubber hose in the middle of the metal lines. I used my template lines on Terminus M1009. But I have made a few sets from scratch since then. Those look like nice original parts. Good job. How did you learn of the parts?
- 888
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- Rhein-Main Area, Germany
I Look frequently in the classifieds in the www......sometimes it is worth it....
- 1,653
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- Location
- Nova Laboratories, WA
If it's electrical, clean it.. If it's rubber, replace it...
RobM36A2
Member
- 302
- 9
- 18
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- The Netherlands
That was my plan also, to replace the rubber and re-use the reducers. That block will be discarded, as it bends the line to the transmission too much.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
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- Alexandria, VA
If that was the round-trip distance than I'll buy into the "small" description.
But if you did that mileage EACH way, then for sure...
- 888
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- Location
- Rhein-Main Area, Germany
It was the roundtrip distance.....
- 1,653
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- Location
- Nova Laboratories, WA
Removed the obnoxious looking LED lights on the rear, and went with some lower profile models to blend in more...
Replaced the rear clearance lights (M1031) with LED.. Not the brightest, but cheap and effective.. Gotta climb on the hood tomorrow to replace the front ones..
To ANYONE with an M1031...
INSPECT YOUR CLEARANCE LIGHT WIRING!!
I found 3 lamps where the solder terminals had snapped off, and were intermittently shorting out....
It takes a couple minutes and could save you a lot of headache...
Replaced the rear clearance lights (M1031) with LED.. Not the brightest, but cheap and effective.. Gotta climb on the hood tomorrow to replace the front ones..
To ANYONE with an M1031...
INSPECT YOUR CLEARANCE LIGHT WIRING!!
I found 3 lamps where the solder terminals had snapped off, and were intermittently shorting out....
It takes a couple minutes and could save you a lot of headache...
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bryfor
Member
- 53
- 0
- 6
- Location
- dundee michigan
Gotta try to diagnose why my voltmeter stays on with key off tomorrow. I've been disconnecting my battery negative to get it to go off. Guess I will start with the voltmeter relay under the dash near the ashtray area. Anyone else ever have this prob? I would've opened a new thread but couldn't figure out how...even though I opened one before...just don't remember how. I only have a mobile...no home computer
MarcusOReallyus
Well-known member
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- Virginia
Not sure if it works the same on the mobile, but here's how to do it on a regular browser.
CuCv M1008
Member
- 40
- 0
- 6
- Location
- Carlisle PA
Hello everyone, been away for awhile. We got 12 inches of snow the other day, Much better than last years 35. A few neighbors got stuck so I went to help them, The M1008 Did great in the unplowed spots. I wanted to test it to see just how good it was so I drove through the unplowed snow on the property, up and down hills and it just went right through. I bought the truck with the Hankook Dynapro's on it and I was really surprised how well they gripped in the snow.
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- Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Good to see another CUCV owner from the Netherlands on here! (I'm from Amersfoort).
Not very exciting, but I to add to the topic, I got my bed rails back from plating:
After:
Before:
When I'm going to paint the truck (after rust repair/removal) I want them black tho. Will have to epoxy-prime them from what i've heard? Truck will be desert tan with black bed rails, brush guard, bumpers, rims, sidebars. And while I'm at it, a 3" lift from ORD.
Ilikemtb999
Active member
- 699
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- 28
- Location
- Denver, CO
Finally got a seat bracket worked out for the new seats. Still need to weld it all up and paint. Then it'll be time to duplicate it for the other side. 