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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

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Volvo740turbo

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That looks like 9 pages of simple, but how long will a 12 v starter work on a high compression diesel...as far as I know most diesels on the street still use a 24v system ...i would like to think that if there were a real advantage that manufacturers would have done this long ago so save material and product cost ?? Is there really a benefit that I'm not seeing or is this just a way to change things around to personal preference And maybe avoiding 24v mechanics? I've read about dponf this year's ago but .....
 
german m1008

german m1008

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Volvo740turbo said:
That looks like 9 pages of simple, but how long will a 12 v starter work on a high compression diesel...as far as I know most diesels on the street still use a 24v system ...i would like to think that if there were a real advantage that manufacturers would have done this long ago so save material and product cost ?? Is there really a benefit that I'm not seeing or is this just a way to change things around to personal preference And maybe avoiding 24v mechanics? I've read about dponf this year's ago but .....
Click to expand...
......only CUCV's use 24V starters.
All civilian use 12V without any issues.
My M1008 is converted to 12V by the PO in the States (Unfortunately), it starts like a champ........
 
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MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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Volvo740turbo said:
Heat gun trick????? Whaaaaaat! Please explain...my door panels are pretty ugly and could use help!
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Use a heat gun (go carefully!) to heat up the plastic. It will (usually) bring up the plasticizers that are deep within the plastic, up to the surface. This restores the surface to like-new condition. Well, at least, better than it was. Sometimes it just doesn't work, but usually, it does a great job.

With plastics, over time the plasticizers(chemicals that make it flexible) evaporate out (into our lungs!) and the surface gets looking oxidized and gets brittle. The heat brings up the stuff that is still there.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=use+a+heat+gun+to+restore+plastic&t=ffnt&ia=videos
 
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Volvo740turbo

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MarcusOReallyus said:
Use a heat gun (go carefully!) to heat up the plastic. It will (usually) bring up the plasticizers that are deep within the plastic, up to the surface. This restores the surface to like-new condition. Well, at least, better than it was. Sometimes it just doesn't work, but usually, it does a great job.

With plastics, over time the plasticizers(chemicals that make it flexible) evaporate out (into our lungs!) and the surface gets looking oxidized and gets brittle. The heat brings up the stuff that is still there.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=use+a+heat+gun+to+restore+plastic&t=ffnt&ia=videos
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Im.buying a heat gun in the morning! I was going to try to use plastic paint on them...this saves me the trouble! Thank you!
 
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Volvo740turbo

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Volvo740turbo said:
Im.buying a heat gun in the morning! I was going to try to use plastic paint on them...this saves me the trouble! Thank you!
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I saw some of the videos on this and they say after you heat it and it dries out again that it looks worse than before and it weakens the plastic, just wondering how long this holds up and if applying armour all to it will prolong the finish?
 
cucvrus

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I never used a heat gun method. I soaked them in armor all for a week or longer and then buffed them up real good. They have lasted for years and as long as I keep them clean I think they hold up well.
 
MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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Yeah, I have read that ArmorAll is basically the same as, or nearly identical to, the plasticizers that were originally in the plastic. I've always had good success with it, but sometimes, things are past that point.

The heat gun trick is really good with things like black plastic fender flares.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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The heat gun trick is really good with things like black plastic fender flares.

On Black plastic I use Krylon Fusion in semi gloss or flat black. The Krylon Fusion paint in Camouflage brown does an awesome job of painting the arm rests and door panels of a CUCV. I painted several new blue armrest and installed them. My Mule m1009 has them both painted and installed. Almost perfect match.
 
Another Ahab

Another Ahab

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cucvrus said:
I never used a heat gun method. I soaked them in armor all for a week or longer and then buffed them up real good. They have lasted for years and as long as I keep them clean I think they hold up well.
Click to expand...
Are you thinking that's a lot better than brushing on (or spraying on) a couple-or-three coats of the stuff?
 
LastFbody

LastFbody

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Finally fixed my excessive black smoke/mileage issue. After eliminating every other possibility, I determined the fuel adjust screw was set too high. It was likely set for right at sea level seeing as how it was originally deployed in Florida. Followed the same procedure as turning the fuel up as seen on youtube, but instead turned the screw a little over 1/8 turn counterclockwise. That did the trick, less than half the black smoke as before, and very conservatively 18 mpg with mostly city driving. Previous to this adjustment i was getting best case scenario 16 mpg with all highway driving.

Also, dont turn your fuel up unless youre adding a turbo. You'll have a bad time.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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Another Ahab said:
Are you thinking that's a lot better than brushing on (or spraying on) a couple-or-three coats of the stuff?
Click to expand...
I guess that's a good point. I hang them from a line and look at them everyday and spray more on as the plastic soaks it up. So it has more then 3 coats at places. Other places are not as badly damaged and take less.
 
Rutjes

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Volvo740turbo said:
Brakes went out coming to a intersection with a red light, almost **** myself and scared aboit 50 people...guess it's time for the next emergency with this trick lol
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****, you got of lucky. Could've been a big mess with 2 and a half tons of unstoppable steel.

Been wondering, are there any specialty tools needed for brake maintenance (front or rear)?
 
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Volvo740turbo

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Rutjes said:
****, you got of lucky. Could've been a big mess with 2 and a half tons of unstoppable steel.

Been wondering, are there any specialty tools needed for brake maintenance (front or rear)?
Click to expand...
Brake fluid was low, I just replaced the front pads a month ago and the rear carrier last week, I didn't see much signs of leaks anywhere on either end of the truck...parts are cheaper than the fluid unfortunately...22$ a quart. Wtf
 
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