What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[ridenby]

Same here and it looks like it well be an easy install too.

If it was not dark I would take a picture;yes,I know there is flash,will get a pic tomorrow. Simple is key to me,and this install is.

 

[computer54]

let me know and I well get one soon because it look like I need it.

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Check the starter support bracket. See if it is off and rattling about. I can take a picture of the pump. Are you talking P/S pump???

Installed the bolt that was missing from the p.s. pump to the water pump and moved around the starter support bracket...tightened the alternator belts a little...gett8ng ready to start work for the night and see if the noise is still there.

 

[ridenby]

let me know and I well get one soon because it look like I need it.

Not much to tiny tach,I put it where the voltage gauge was,got power from fuse box ran other wires out to where the transducer mounted. Transducer just clamps to fuel line,magically reads the fuel pluses.

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Installed the bolt that was missing from the p.s. pump to the water pump and moved around the starter support bracket...tightened the alternator belts a little...gett8ng ready to start work for the night and see if the noise is still there.

I'm wondering if the noise I hear is the fuel pump push rod clattering? Anyone ever had a problem like that?

 

[computer54]

looks good and I well be getting one latter on this mouth but I need to finger where to put the Transducer on my truck.

 

[Bighorn]

Got my M1009 running today after swapping in a rebuilt fuel injection pump by Oregon Fuel Injection.
Unfortunately my brand new radiator had a leak right out of the box.
So I was only able to run it a little bit.
What surprised me was how quickly it started.
I thought about cracking the fuel injector lines and removing glow plugs before first crank.
Then for the heck of it I just got in and let it glow then cranked for 15 seconds and it almost started right at the end.
So I waited 30 seconds and cranked again and it fired right up.
Idled smooth and steady.
Nothing leaked but the radiator.
They are gonna warranty that so now i have to wait till next week for a replacement.
So a rebuilt injection pump.
A new Delco water pump.
New set of AC 60G glow plugs.
New thermostat.
New radiator cap.
New radiator hoses.
New Fluidampr harmonic balancer.

The axle swap might get put on hold.. I am jonesing to drive this thing!

Funny story;
I took my old injection pump to the post office to send back to Oregon Fuel Injection for the $300 core charge.
Thought I had wrapped it up well enough.
I open the door of the p.o. and the postmaster says "Are you kidding me?!"
"What?"
"Whatever you have there will never make it smelling like gas."
"It's diesel actually.."
"Whatever, forget it. Take whatever it is back and clean it until it doesn't stink."

So I had to bring it all the way back up the mountain.
Double bagged it in Hefty garden bags and then bagged it a third time just to be sure.
Honestly, I couldn't smell the diesel in the first place but I do want it to make it through the postal service.

So the price for a Rebuilt Pump from Oregon Fuel Injection was as follows;
Part Number DB2-4267 Rebuilt Pump, 84 HD 6.2 $521.10
Core charge $300
6.2 injection pump install kit (gaskets) $23.77
Priority Mail $37.65

Total $882.52

Return shipping for core $37.65
Core charge refund $300

Grand total $620.17

Notes about Oregon Fuel Injection's customer service;
They are excellent.
Asked me about how I was going to use the truck.
Where I would be using the truck.
What I wanted performance wise.

They built me a pump to my specifications;
I live and work between 9,000 feet and 4,500 feet.
There is a 10% grade between town and the lodge.
We get down to minus 40 degrees sometimes in winter (It's Wyoming).
So, if and when I get a radiator that you know.. holds water.
I will report how this pump handles highway 14A.
Will be running Lucas Diesel additive in every tank henceforth.

My core was operable.
I drove the truck from Portland Oregon to Lovell Wyoming and then another couple hundred to watch the eclipse.
Replaced it because it was seeping fuel out the bowl.
Maybe I could have re-sealed it on the truck but due to it's age and suspecting it to have every bit of 93,000 miles, it seemed prudent to just get a rebuilt pump.

Some helpful things I did to make the replacement procedure easier;
Used a propane plumbers torch to heat and bend a pair of cheap 5/8" wrenches to reach the injector nuts on the pump.
One wrench I bent sideways 45 degrees at the open end head and the other I bend the head forward 90 degrees
It made it a lot easier.
Replacing the water pump at the same time gave me easy access to the pump drive bolts on the gear.
Didn't have to turn the motor to access them through the oil filler hole.

View attachment 698283

Now, if I could only get a new radiator that didn't leak. Patience...

View attachment 698266View attachment 698267View attachment 698268View attachment 698269

The flared ends of the oil cooler lines don't fit inside the replacement radiator.
They bottom out before you can get the nut started.
I trimmed 3/16" off the flare and they went right in.
O-ring seal not pictured.

That **** radiator looked so sweet.
Too bad it was a leaker right out of the box.
I could have soldered it myself but it is under warranty.. just wait Matt.

New Delco water pump.

Engine just before the timing water pump/timing cover went on.

Glad I did all this.
Really like to learn about my vehicles and the best way I can think of is to wrench on them.

www.oregonfuelinjection.com

 

[Bighorn]

In the old days we used a long handled screw driver to find mysterious knocks.
Actually I still do.
Get the longest screwdriver you can find, preferably and old Craftsman with the plastic handle with a ball on the end.
Phillips or flat doesn't matter.
Put the pointy end right up against the block casting where the fuel pump resides.
Carefully press your ear to the plastic handle of the screwdriver until it shuts out all the ambient noises and you will hear only the bloodstream of the engine and your own pulse.
Found collapsed lifters, broken rocker arms, cracked flex plated, spun rod bearings, and the source of many other mechanical ailments this way.
My Daddy taught me how to do it.
When the batteries die in the smart thing-a-ma-jig or you've stepped on and broke your fancy Snap-On stethoscope.. ye olde Craftsman long handled screwdriver will still work.

 

[rustystud]

Got my M1009 running today after swapping in a rebuilt fuel injection pump by Oregon Fuel Injection.
Unfortunately my brand new radiator had a leak right out of the box.
So I was only able to run it a little bit.
What surprised me was how quickly it started.
I thought about cracking the fuel injector lines and removing glow plugs before first crank.
Then for the heck of it I just got in and let it glow then cranked for 15 seconds and it almost started right at the end.
So I waited 30 seconds and cranked again and it fired right up.
Idled smooth and steady.
Nothing leaked but the radiator.
They are gonna warranty that so now i have to wait till next week for a replacement.
So a rebuilt injection pump.
A new Delco water pump.
New set of AC 60G glow plugs.
New thermostat.
New radiator cap.
New radiator hoses.
New Fluidampr harmonic balancer.

The axle swap might get put on hold.. I am jonesing to drive this thing!

Funny story;
I took my old injection pump to the post office to send back to Oregon Fuel Injection for the $300 core charge.
Thought I had wrapped it up well enough.
I open the door of the p.o. and the postmaster says "Are you kidding me?!"
"What?"
"Whatever you have there will never make it smelling like gas."
"It's diesel actually.."
"Whatever, forget it. Take whatever it is back and clean it until it doesn't stink."

So I had to bring it all the way back up the mountain.
Double bagged it in Hefty garden bags and then bagged it a third time just to be sure.
Honestly, I couldn't smell the diesel in the first place but I do want it to make it through the postal service.

So the price for a Rebuilt Pump from Oregon Fuel Injection was as follows;
Part Number DB2-4267 Rebuilt Pump, 84 HD 6.2 $521.10
Core charge $300
6.2 injection pump install kit (gaskets) $23.77
Priority Mail $37.65

Total $882.52

Return shipping for core $37.65
Core charge refund $300

Grand total $620.17

Notes about Oregon Fuel Injection's customer service;
They are excellent.
Asked me about how I was going to use the truck.
Where I would be using the truck.
What I wanted performance wise.

They built me a pump to my specifications;
I live and work between 9,000 feet and 4,500 feet.
There is a 10% grade between town and the lodge.
We get down to minus 40 degrees sometimes in winter (It's Wyoming).
So, if and when I get a radiator that you know.. holds water.
I will report how this pump handles highway 14A.
Will be running Lucas Diesel additive in every tank henceforth.

My core was operable.
I drove the truck from Portland Oregon to Lovell Wyoming and then another couple hundred to watch the eclipse.
Replaced it because it was seeping fuel out the bowl.
Maybe I could have re-sealed it on the truck but due to it's age and suspecting it to have every bit of 93,000 miles, it seemed prudent to just get a rebuilt pump.

Some helpful things I did to make the replacement procedure easier;
Used a propane plumbers torch to heat and bend a pair of cheap 5/8" wrenches to reach the injector nuts on the pump.
One wrench I bent sideways 45 degrees at the open end head and the other I bend the head forward 90 degrees
It made it a lot easier.
Replacing the water pump at the same time gave me easy access to the pump drive bolts on the gear.
Didn't have to turn the motor to access them through the oil filler hole.

View attachment 698283

Now, if I could only get a new radiator that didn't leak. Patience...

View attachment 698266View attachment 698267View attachment 698268View attachment 698269

The flared ends of the oil cooler lines don't fit inside the replacement radiator.
They bottom out before you can get the nut started.
I trimmed 3/16" off the flare and they went right in.
O-ring seal not pictured.

That **** radiator looked so sweet.
Too bad it was a leaker right out of the box.
I could have soldered it myself but it is under warranty.. just wait Matt.

New Delco water pump.

Engine just before the timing water pump/timing cover went on.

Glad I did all this.
Really like to learn about my vehicles and the best way I can think of is to wrench on them.

www.oregonfuelinjection.com

Snap-On sells a set of wrenches that are bent almost actually like that. They are called pump wrenches also ! I bought a set years ago when I was trying to remove a pump on an old Detroit Diesel. The Snap-On man had just come on the property (they always come once a week) as I was failing at getting that pump off. He said they had a wrench set for that. I told him if his wrench could bust that nut off I would buy his set of wrenches. It did and I bought the set. Just be careful what you say to the Snap-On man. That cost me a few hundred dollars !

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Did the XJ steering shaft mod.



Steering feels much better now.

What is the "XJ steering shaft mod"? Is that a steering shaft from an XJ Cherokee? What problem is it solving?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Removed the Diagnostic Plug and harness.

Did you cut the wires? Or disconnnect them? Where?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

In the old days we used a long handled screw driver to find mysterious knocks.
Actually I still do.
Get the longest screwdriver you can find, preferably and old Craftsman with the plastic handle with a ball on the end.
Phillips or flat doesn't matter.
Put the pointy end right up against the block casting where the fuel pump resides.
Carefully press your ear to the plastic handle of the screwdriver

A mechanics's stethoscope is much easier, safer (you can watch what you are doing), more accurate, and runs about ten bucks or less. Less than five bucks at Harbor Freight.

You can get it in more places, too.

 

[85CUCVtom]

What is the "XJ steering shaft mod"? Is that a steering shaft from an XJ Cherokee? What problem is it solving?

I was wondering that myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cucvrus]

I was wondering that myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same here. I thought I was driving fine all these years and now I find out I was doing it all wrong. The secret is the U joints.

 

[Rutjes]

What is the "XJ steering shaft mod"? Is that a steering shaft from an XJ Cherokee? What problem is it solving?

Less play with U joints instead of rag joint. Steering feels much more direct. Do a google search. A LOT of people did the swap. It's pretty much a direct fit.

 

[cucvrus]

The intended purpose of the rag joint is part of the safety design. With the rag joint the steering column is torn away from the steering shaft in a serious collision. With this U joint it will drive the steering column up thru the cab. It will telescope about 10 inches but after that column becomes a spear to impale you. The steering column was always the deadliest part of the old cars. Since then and since CUCV's a lot of safety improvements have been added to help and eliminate steering column impalement. I am speaking from a safety point of view. The rag joint replacements cost about $35. and I do not know what the cost of the (XJ upgrade) is. I have never replaced a rag joint so I am not sure I would need to pay anymore then $35. if the need would arise. Do you have grease fittings on the u-joints? Have a great day. Be safe.

 

[Tinstar]

Unfortunately my brand new radiator had a leak right out of the boxNow, if I could only get a new radiator that didn't leak. Patience...

View attachment 698266View attachment 698267

The flared ends of the oil cooler lines don't fit inside the replacement radiator.
They bottom out before you can get the nut started.
I trimmed 3/16" off the flare and they went right in.
O-ring seal not pictured.

That **** radiator looked so sweet.
Too bad it was a leaker right out of the box.
I could have soldered it myself but it is under warranty..

Looks like the exact model radiator I just installed about a month ago.
My lines installed without issue. Still no lline or radiator leaks, just checked again yesterday.
Sucks Your having issues with it.

 

[computer54]

They do but they last and last but you need to clean them after use too.

 

[Bighorn]

Looks like the exact model radiator I just installed about a month ago.
My lines installed without issue. Still no lline or radiator leaks, just checked again yesterday.
Sucks Your having issues with it.

Yea, I was a little ticked off yesterday.
I heard the drumming noise of the water drops and could barely contain my rage.
I found the leak too.
It is on the first of the four core tubes.
It has the factory black paint on the ding where the leak is.
My guess is it got smacked after testing and before paint?
I could actually solder it.
I was a plumber for 25 years.
Soldered many copper and brass things including radiators on the trail.
Normal plumbing solder works fine as long as you heat the damaged area up just enough to burn off the paint then flux it a few times.
After that the solder runs right in.
I very nearly soldered the hole shut last night.
But the radiator shop is going to get me another one under warranty.
I only get one day off a week so it really doesn't matter that my m1009 is down since I still have the 76 K5.
But at least I was able to run the engine after the new injector pump install.

As for the model radiator, It comes from Northern. Same part number I've seen in threads here under the name Murphy.
Brass tanks and copper tubes.

 

[Rutjes]

I paid €35 including (national) shipping here in the Netherlands. Probably expensive? I found an ad and didn't bargain, thought this was well worth it. When researching I read that they can be found for $10 up on junkyards and eBay.

The swap itself is pretty easy, I bet it can be done in 15 minutes. Hardest part was getting the XJ shaft to slide in/out. I did it exactly like this guy did:

https://youtu.be/uVsx-x98sk8

I had to keep yanking and yanking it to separate tho.

Here's a good how-to video that shows how to install it:

https://youtu.be/H9C4RdvjPNQ